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Monty the Rwd R1 engined tarmac eating Minus


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#466 Alburglar

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 05:58 PM

Finished running all the lines underneath the car now too.
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Edited by Alburglar, 18 November 2007 - 05:58 PM.


#467 Bungle

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 06:58 PM

wow very trick sandwich plate

#468 Alburglar

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 10:25 PM

Sandwich plate and senders are fitted.
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...and yes I have refitted the exhaust manifold it does clear! Phew.
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#469 Alburglar

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 10:30 PM

Also finally trial fitted the exhaust. I bent up a bit of tube to make a mount/steady for the can.
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The exhaust fits really snug and I like that it is mainly hidden by the rear valance. The little end pipe on the can points down 45 degrees, so just had to cut a little aperture in the valance.
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#470 supermotolee

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 10:59 PM

has that got a second silencer box hidden in there somewere? i had an mhp can on my old gsxr sounded great but a bit noisey lol
good progress

#471 supermotolee

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 04:56 PM

just a thought you can pick up universal exhaust cans with removable baffles so you could have the best of both worlds normally only a 10mm bolt to remove the baffle in the end might help with noise for track days and the like...

#472 Alburglar

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 05:01 PM

It's just the backbox. It will be very loud probably around 110db mark (I'm Guessing), but my local track (lydenn Hill) is very forgiving, so it sould be OK. I'll have to get one of those bolt on the end silencers for Brands Hatch etc

#473 Alburglar

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 07:53 PM

Been doing loads of DIY around the house ready for crimbo so only small "I'm just nipping out to th garage for a minute" jobs done lately.
Because of the way I've run evrerything my water hoses poked out a little further than the exhaust tunnel, so I've made a scratch plate to keep it all neat and out of harms way.
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Also finally got round to rivieting on my anchor nuts for the rear and side windows, so they can be easily removed. For the rear window I used M5 anchor nuts.
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Looks quite neat from the outside
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Space was an issue for the side windows so I've used m3 anchor nuts and really little rivets.
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Looks really neat. You can hardly tell they're there.
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Edited by Alburglar, 28 November 2007 - 07:55 PM.


#474 Alburglar

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:50 PM

Long time since last post,
I have fixed various spots of damaged fibreglass including a bad section on the underside where the a-series exhaust y-piece had been too close to the floor and melted the grp.
Then I turned my attention to finishing any bits that could be done whilst the tank and rad are out. So I've started to sort out the bulkhead. Removing the ******* sound deadning.
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and whilst I was at it, the ally bulkhead box might as well go too.
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Quick clean with solvents and it looks much better already, so a bit more scrubbing and I'll graft in some new grp to fill the big hole, plus some little holes that were hidden under the sound deadning.
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Edited by Alburglar, 19 March 2008 - 11:51 PM.


#475 Alburglar

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Posted 21 March 2008 - 04:03 PM

Slopped some grp on it last night.
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#476 dean_chad

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Posted 21 March 2008 - 06:11 PM

Alright mate how come you went for the nut ancors instead of rivet nut inserts? just asking because im waiting on my windows to turn up and like yourself want them easy removal. thought there might have been a reason why you chose them?

cheers
Dean

#477 markrally

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Posted 21 March 2008 - 07:45 PM

Dean, Rivnuts dont work very well in fibreglass, but will be spot on in yours, Anchornuts will be perfect in fibreglass though.

Cheers

#478 dean_chad

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 08:42 AM

cheers mark, didnt want to start a job and realise it isnt going to work spot on then

#479 Alburglar

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 01:13 PM

Right more or less finished my front bulkhead repairs, just needs filler and paint. Fitted the flanges for my cold air feeds to make sure that fitted ok.
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Finished the old exhaust hole too
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Then turned my attention to the throttle action. The throttle cable takes a very conveluted path and is stiff so the choke was sticking open sometimes. So I've welded a bracket to a clevis pin.
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This along with solderless nipples fixes the cable to the bottom of the throttle lever arm as normal.
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But the bracket allows me to add a return spring, which forces the cableback through it's sheath. You can't see here,but behind the arm there is a solderless nipple on the the throttle cable either side of the clevis pin. Posted Image
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Works OK but needs a return spring on the pedal too, which I've nearly finished.

Edited by Alburglar, 27 March 2008 - 01:16 PM.


#480 Tomf

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Posted 21 May 2008 - 10:30 PM

Good work Ali, you goin to be bringing this to the ring?

I shoudl have my mini there with me this year :huh:




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