654 replies to this topic

[markrally]

Have i missed something but who is D R engineering?

I thought chris was supplying the gripper diff?

Is the bearing carriers easy to remove from the diff as im replacing my diff soon?

Cheers

[Alburglar]

The gripper diffs that z's supply are made by D R Engineering, I checked them out and they have a fantastic reputation for making bullet proof diffs for any application you ask them. They work out cheaper through z's I think because they buy 5 or 10 at a time. Z's have to machine your drive shafts to suit it too.

The diff wasn't too taxing to remove, but it is a bit awkward. I removed the offside trailing arm in order to pop the drive shaft out, but you coould try removing the inside bolt and loosening the outside bolt enough to swing the arm away. This might give enough clearance to get the shaft out the hub without removing the whole arm. You can then support the diff (in my case with my knees and some bubble wrap on removal and then I used a ratchet strap either side of the sporcket and over the top roll cage bar to put it back on) and undo the four carrier bolts. When replacing the diff be sure to put the chain on the sprocket BEFORE you bolt it all back together. The bearing carriers are easily removed with a couple of taps from a soft faced mallet.

[Alburglar]

I have resin'd a few layers over the centre section of the cross member as it was pulling in when bolting in my gear linkage bracket.

I have finished the restoration of the front floor pans and layed some grp over the painted steel. I then sanded everything, I've just got a few awkward bits around the pedal box to finish ready for paint.

[Pie]

nice knee

Is it going to be ready for the ring Al?? only 20 days YIPPEEEEEEEEEE (kye ehy mother trucker)

[Alburglar]

She will be driveable soon and MOT'd, i hope, but It's not coming to the ring this year. Perhaps her first day out may be castle coombe if I can get my holiday dates sorted.

[Alburglar]

Front floor is painted, now to start bolting it all back together.

[Alburglar]

Well Cage is in and complete for the first time with door bars and dash bar in.


And I have fitted the speed sensor for the digi dash. The sensor picks up a signal from a magnet passing it, the magnet is bonded to what's left of the front drive shaft, with a chemical metal type product.

[miniboo]

so are you going to the ring in it?

[Alburglar]

nope going as a passenger this year.

[Pie]

lol come on ali, bring it to the ring this year, you can do it in 4 days lol

[Alburglar]

This ugly lot is known as the Air Induction System (AIS), it uses exhaust gas pulses to suck oxygen in to burn off more C**p in the exhaust to reduce emissions.

It is surplus now so I've binned it...


...but it has left these little fittings next to each exhaust port, question is - Has anyone come up with a neat way to blank these off with out re-tapping the hole in order to block off with a bolt?

- Are the fittings an interference fit? ie Willl they just pull out of the head?

Edited by Alburglar, 12 September 2007 - 12:28 AM.

[Alburglar]

Meanwhile back in the bat cave...
... I've managed to make a neat job of the water pipes, which is important as they run pretty close to the exhaust manifold.

and fitted a water temp sender

[Alburglar]

I've also had the trusty Riv nut gun out to make some home made p clips for the places that are impossble to get a spanner to...

like where the line for the clutch slave cylinder runs under the steering rack.

I also made up a bracket with riv nuts in as I couldn't get a spanner on here either

[Alburglar]

These long bolts also hold the p clips for the brake line which runs inside the car.

Edited by Alburglar, 12 September 2007 - 11:14 AM.

[koss]

Give the AIS elbows a twist with some molegrips and after some wiggling about they will come out.
The holes left are a perfect fit for a M10 tap. Tap them out with a vacuum for the swarf and insert M10 x 10 grub screws with locktight.