Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

The Freak (with Added Xe)


  • Please log in to reply
1446 replies to this topic

#1306 GreaseMonkey

GreaseMonkey

    Has Ratchet, Will Make Noises

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,663 posts

Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:59 PM

Sounds daft but spark plugs or leads? Can the standard ECU be mapped?

#1307 mk3 Cooper S

mk3 Cooper S

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,569 posts

Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:50 PM

If you have changed the lambda sensor for the non heated (3 wire type) your sensor could be not within accurate operating temp during prolonged idle and therefore going to fully rich and smoking after prolonged idle. I.E not closed loop fueling.

I presume ther is no cat either (which tends to retain the heat when it has lit off and retaining the temp in the lambda sensor) ?

#1308 The Matt

The Matt

    You don't escape that easily.....

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,232 posts
  • Name: Matt
  • Location: Overton, North Wales
  • Local Club: Welsh Border Minis

Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:28 PM

Hmmm, maybe, but Vauxhall no longer do the three wire lambda sensor for it. I'm not sure what you mean about the heat in the cat, but yeah, there's no cat on it.

#1309 mk3 Cooper S

mk3 Cooper S

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,569 posts

Posted 20 August 2010 - 10:47 PM

Hmmm, maybe, but Vauxhall no longer do the three wire lambda sensor for it. I'm not sure what you mean about the heat in the cat, but yeah, there's no cat on it.

Yep probably a cost down as the heater ones are more expensive.(and the more efficient cat light off strategies etc)

The lambda sensor and Cat rely on certain operating temps to work correctly. The Cat brick holds a lot of heat once it has lit off (up to efficient temp) and generally the sensors are close to the cat (pre and or post).
I was wondering if the position of the sensor and lack of cat brick(heat source) could cause the lambda sensor to require the 3 wire heating element for your car?

Edited by mk3 Cooper S, 20 August 2010 - 10:48 PM.


#1310 The Matt

The Matt

    You don't escape that easily.....

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,232 posts
  • Name: Matt
  • Location: Overton, North Wales
  • Local Club: Welsh Border Minis

Posted 21 August 2010 - 05:46 AM

Aaaah, I see. It's worth a try, if I can find one.

#1311 mini93

mini93

    He's just too casual!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,615 posts
  • Location: Warwick
  • Local Club: Medievil minis of Warwickshire

Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:39 AM

not going to be something stupid like a temperature sensor is it? especialy if it has a feed into the ECU... bit of a wild guess :(

#1312 GreaseMonkey

GreaseMonkey

    Has Ratchet, Will Make Noises

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,663 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:46 AM

Can you only use OEM Lambda? I'm pretty sure the Bosch Lambda that comes with the Innovate and AEM gauges Pre heat themselves?

#1313 The Matt

The Matt

    You don't escape that easily.....

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,232 posts
  • Name: Matt
  • Location: Overton, North Wales
  • Local Club: Welsh Border Minis

Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:38 AM

My head is now fried!

All wiring and connectors checked again. Every sensor checked for function, all OK.

Still over fuels.

I've moved the lambda now, so it's right in the manifold, before it was in the down pipe. No difference.

So, last resort today is to try a different fuel pump. It's the only thing left to try.

I think I've been stupid though. I did an eBay search for Corsa GSi fuel pump and found a Walbro uprated one, which (now I look back) was an uprated universal one, not a Corsa GSi specific one. Perhaps it's just pumping too much fuel for the standard regulator to cope with? I'd never even thought of it until yesterday when I was double checking that my return line was pumping fuel back to the tank. :angel:

Could it be that? It must be, I've tried everything else. If it ain't that, I will have to give up as I'm totally out of ideas, money and time.

Which route should I go down? Go to the scrappy and get the fuel pump off the 1.4 16V Corsa they had there, or look for a Mini MPi one?

#1314 The Matt

The Matt

    You don't escape that easily.....

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,232 posts
  • Name: Matt
  • Location: Overton, North Wales
  • Local Club: Welsh Border Minis

Posted 22 August 2010 - 08:11 AM

Actually, looking at the type of fuel pump I've got, it's definitely total over kill. There are people running 500bhp turbo motors with the same pump :angel:

255L/hour is waaaaay too much, and it's a high pressure one. Standard X14XE one shall be fitted today.

Keep yer fingers crossed! >_<

#1315 Purple Tom

Purple Tom

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,921 posts
  • Location: Derbyshire
  • Local Club: TMF

Posted 22 August 2010 - 09:20 AM

Hope you get it sorted Matt, I remember well the days of getting my conversion ready for the second BH2N, it's certainly stressful!

When you get the fuel pump it'll probably be encased in lots of plastic, as that's how they're mounted in the standard tank. Just remove all of that rubbish and you should find a slimline pump which'll fit in the SPi/MPi tank without any problems at all.

Good luck!

#1316 alexcrosse

alexcrosse

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,786 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 10:21 AM

if youve put a gauge on it and the pressures ok i cant see you uprated pump being the problem although for your sake i hope it is!

have you tried bolting a standard inlet on?

#1317 The Matt

The Matt

    You don't escape that easily.....

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,232 posts
  • Name: Matt
  • Location: Overton, North Wales
  • Local Club: Welsh Border Minis

Posted 22 August 2010 - 11:39 AM

Pump swapped. No joy. In fact, whatever the fault was is now ten times worse.

It's undrivable now. Missing, popping, cutting out, won't rev at all.

It's definitely electrical. But I don't have a clue now. I've tried everything, absolutely everything.

#1318 Kam

Kam

    Straight to the Point

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,140 posts
  • Location: Hampshire
  • Local Club: 16vMini club

Posted 22 August 2010 - 01:37 PM

Your still using the standard ecu aint you? Any error codes?

Could try a cry for help over on 16v? Give them a rundown?

Hope you get some luck mate

#1319 lemmingzappa

lemmingzappa

    Tubby White Ninja!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,480 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 02:08 PM

Hope you get it sorted for Germany :angel: >_<

#1320 Purple Tom

Purple Tom

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,921 posts
  • Location: Derbyshire
  • Local Club: TMF

Posted 22 August 2010 - 04:48 PM

Have you tried the coolant temperature sensor? I know you said you've checked them all but as it's a problem that gets worse as the engine warms up then I'd say it has to be something like that, or the lambda...

Have you checked to make sure the engine earths are all ok? Especially those anywhere near where things get hot? I had an intermittent electrical fault when I did an OBD2 conversion on my VR6 which turned out to be an engine earth near the gearbox which only gave trouble when everything warmed up....

Hope you get it sorted!




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users