1446 replies to this topic

[The Matt]

I don't have any way of checking fuel pressure, but it could be that. I'm using a Corsa GSi pump in the MPi tank, with the standard GSi fuel rail and regulator. Might be worth switching the reg? I've got a spare complete fuel rail with injectors etc.

[alexcrosse]

aye i would mate, buy an inline gauge off tinternet, only cheap. I just put mine inline to check and calibrate then remove when using the car

[The Matt]

I'm confuzzled.....When the car has run for a short while it tries to cut out. It's almost like it's flooding. It will barely idle, it also does smoke like mad when you put your foot down after over run. The weirdest thing is that if you're in neutral and rev it up, then take your foot right off, it takes maybe 5 seconds for the revs to drop. Now, the weird thing is that it doesn't do that if I disconnect the air flow meter. It responds to taking your foot off as it should.

So, the one thing I never expected it to be (seeing as I hunted around on various fora for a "perfect working condition" meter) seems to be the cause of the rough running.

I've seen cars with knackered air flow meters before, yeah, they idle roughly, yeah, it effects the running, but I didn't think it'd cause it to run as roughly as it has been. I hope it is that. I'll chance another second hand one, see what that does. A new one is about £150, but I can't afford that at the moment. Poops!

[GreaseMonkey]

Is the Air flow meter part of the standard injection doo dah? If it is I'll see if there is one on the one I have and I'll take it off you?

[The Matt]

Cheers Monkey. Yeah, it's part of the standard setup, but I'm not sure if the X16XE one is the same? I've got one on its way to me anyway, but I'm collecting spares anyway. I bought an ECU for £2, an air flow meter for £8, a new TPS. they're going in the rear door bin to take to Germany just in case

If you could see if you've got one, then send a piccy, that'd be great.

[The Matt]

OK, new air flow meter fitted. Much better idle, runs a bit better.

Bit it still ain't right. It's misfiring as soon as it gets warm. Like the ignition system is going to pot after a few minutes of running.


I've tried:

New TPS, helped a little
New MAF, helped a lot
New coilpack, the old one was cracked so I changed it anyway
New ECU, no real difference at all.

When it's playing up, turning it off then restarting seems to clear it.

Could it be the crank sensor on the way out anorl??? Man, it's frying my noggin now!

[mini93]

couldnt be a lambda problem could it? iv got a strange problem on my pug which is apparently lambda sensor related, allbe it kinda opposite way round to your problems.

[The Matt]

Forgot to add, it's had a new lambda sensor (single wire instead of three) as the old one was tripping out the ECU fuse (heater circuit was shorting).

It's also had a new solenoid in the ICV!

[mini93]

sounds like no end of problems are there any sensors which are left un-touched? whats the likelyhood of having a naff new sensor? anyway you can borrow bits from a friends engine without going out your way to buy yet more new parts?

[The Matt]

New crank and cam angle sensors fitted.

Runs much better now.

The fuel pressure is right. I've got a slight air leak on the inlet. The throttle stop needs a little adjustment. But yeah, loads better. The management light stays on still though. Maybe just needs clearing/resetting?

[Kam]

Good going so far mate, is that air leak from the inlet the same one you had going on before or is there another now?

[The Matt]

I dunno, I've sealed it as well as I can, but it's still leaking somewhere, which isn't helping things.

Also, I think I'm over-throwing the clutch slightly too, so need to slacken the cable off a little, or put an adjustable stop on the floor.

Problems, problems, no time to sort. Nightmare.

[Kam]

Sorry I can't help on your engine woes I don't even know about hondas so no chance with these opels......

As for your overthrowing clutch check out my one near the bottom of page 12, simple idea from a guy over on 16v

You got plenty of time to sort your car out, well 13 days Keep at it!

[The Matt]

HEEEEEEELPPPPP!!!!

I've changed every flaming sensor on this engine and it's still not running right.

Symptoms: starts and idles well from cold. When it starts to get warm, it won't idle, runs rough and won't rev freely from low revs. I am sure it's over fuelling.

I've tried:
New ECU
New TPS
New coilpack
New ICV
New MAF
New lambda sensor
Sealed inlet of any air leaks

Car gets a little better each time, but still not right. Once you've got "through" the first 5 minutes of driving, it's much better, but still seems to over fuel.

I can't drive it to Germany like this. I'm scared I'm going to get bore-washing whilst it's running in. I've also tested all electrical connections to the ECU. The management light stays on, but it won't flash out any fault codes.

What do I do? Just drive it more and hope it doesn't do any damage? I've only done about 150 miles of driving so far, but need the engine run in by next weekend, ready for Germany. I'm feeling like I can't do right for doing wrong ATM.

One other thing, I've not had a fuel tank vent valve plugged in, so I'm going to find one tomorrow and plug it in. I tried the one off my Vectra, but it made no difference. I'm stuffed!!!

Tomorrow's plan: got to scrappy, source FTTV, spare coolant temp sensor, fit to mini and just drive about 100 miles with spares and tools in the car.

[The Matt]

Oh, I've also fitted new fuel pressure reg, checked fuel pressure as OK, checked fuel lines are clear. All seems OK. also fitted spare injectors.

Man alive, I'm panicking here now. Sheesus!