9 replies to this topic

[oldzimmer]

Hi looking to fit front disc brakes on my 1982 hl mini 

 

At moment has drums on 

 

What would the cost be approx to have fitted and changed

 

thanks

[Steve220]

Hi looking to fit front disc brakes on my 1982 hl mini 

 

At moment has drums on 

 

What would the cost be approx to have fitted and changed

 

thanks

https://www.minispar...ng-disc-shields

 

Would probably take a garage about 3 hours to do it.

[Designer]

Hi,

 

If you become a TMF+ member of the forum for the cost of £5 and then register your membership with Minispares you will get 71/2% discount on any orders.

Worth doing if you buy the above kit from them.

 

Paddy

[Cooperman]

This is the best value kit: C-AJJ4028MS 

 

Since your car is a 998 you will need new wheels as the original 998 3.5" wheels have the wrong offset and will stick out. You'll also need new rear drums with the built-in spacer. The original Cooper 'S' steel 4.5" wheels as supplied by Mini Spares won't require wheel arch extensions.

A lower cost alternative could be the old 998 Cooper 7" discs with LD19 callipers. That way your wheels won't need changing. Whilst not as good as the 7.3" discs, they work well enough on a road car so long as you have good quality pads.

Edited by Cooperman, 09 April 2025 - 08:34 PM.

[oldzimmer]

Hi Guys

Many thanks 

 

Local garage quoted £500 parts £700 labor  PASSENGER.jpg   86.58K   3 downloads  wheel.jpg   72.89K   3 downloads  stating 3 days work , which was surprising. And not believable .

 

Photo of current wheels 12"

 

 

[absx2]

Looks like you have spaced drums on the front although the wheels are deep dish.

 

On the plus side you already have 12" wheels so a bog standard 8.4" disc set up from 1984 onwards is all you need and there should be a plentiful supply second hand, maybe a shout out on here will get you what you need.

 

4hrs tops for that conversion providing the ball joints are correctly shimmed and ready to fit, the back end looks like it`s already sorted.

Edited by absx2, 10 April 2025 - 11:44 AM.

[Steve220]

Hi Guys
Many thanks

Local garage quoted £500 parts £700 labor PASSENGER.jpg wheel.jpg stating 3 days work , which was surprising. And not believable .

Photo of current wheels 12"

I'd be surprised they got all the parts for £500. Most places don't realise the hubs are different.. and you need to fit quality bearings for longevity.

[Spider]

Hi Guys

Many thanks 

 

Local garage quoted £500 parts £700 labor  stating 3 days work , which was surprising. And not believable .

 

The 'Disc Kits' don't come assembled and there's many different kits on the market, the cheaper ones seem to have no genuine wheel bearings and cheap CVs. As they say, you get what you pay for and with these, from my experience, it's not a case of replacing a (cheap) wheel bearing later when it lets go. They inevitably also damage the hub, the CV and sometimes the drive flange when they do, thus making the cheap wheel bearing set quite expensive. I would recommend that you insist on the kit having Timken Wheel Bearings and Transtec CVs. It's not a case of 'if' the cheap wheel bearing lets go but 'when'. The best I ever got from them was 5000-ish km.

 

To build these up from a kit, while I don't work at the same pace as a commercial workshop does anymore, it takes me a full day to check and assemble these hubs from parts, granted, that includes painting them too, though, that doesn't add a lot of time. Fitting them is about 1/2 a day, that includes changing the rear wheel cylinders (and don't forget they will need to be changed to a smaller size !) and bleeding the brakes. You also should include a wheel alignment too.
 

[Cooperman]

Of course, properly adjusted drum brakes with quality brake linings and good condition drums work fine on a standard 998.

[timmy850]

As mentioned above it’s not a simple unbolt and bolt on procedure when the kits come unassembled. You may also find other things that need to be replaced “while you’re there”

Things like:
Shimming the ball joints
Installing and checking the wheel bearings are tight when torqued
Removing the old brake lines and crush washers. Some minis are more difficult to reach than others
Painting parts so they don’t corrode
Removing the old CV joints
Removing the steering arms from the old hubs

Things while you’re there that need to be checked:
Track rod ends may need to be replaced
Full system brake fluid flush
Boots on the pot joints
Rear wheel cylinders
Rear wheel studs & wider drums & adjust drums and handbrake
Rear brake hoses & shoes
Rear wheel bearings
Alignment