9 replies to this topic

[Larco2811]

Hello all,

 

I am trying to remove the from hub from my 1980 (mk 4 998) as doing a disc conversion. I have managed to break the ball joint on the steering rack, but for the life of me can not break the ball joints on the upper and lower control arms.

 

So far I have tried a lot of penetrating oil, a larger hammer, a scissor ball joint separator (I managed to break one of these in the process) and the fork type one with a very large hammer.

 

The car is on jack stands at the front, and the shocks have been removed. I have tried lifting the hub itself using a jack under the drum break and also on the lower control arm itself. But doing this just lifts the whole car, so it does not make the control arms move at all.

 

I have thought about using the angle grinder and cutting them off just above the rubber boot. If I do this, when I come to taking the control arms out, do you think I would be able to knock out the bit of the ball joint that is still in there once I have it in a vice etc?

 

Does anyone have any ideas or other suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave 

 

 

  

 

 

 

  

[nicklouse]

Get a better ball joint splitter.

 

cutting things will just make things a whole lot harder.

[Larco2811]

Get a better ball joint splitter.

 

cutting things will just make things a whole lot harder.

That is what I have been using. I broke one of the scissor ones and using the fork type with a massive hammer also does not shift it

[alpder]

I find heat gets most seized things moving. Apply the scissor-type splitter and wind it tight. Then heat the end of the arm. Not mad-red-hot... don't want to change the metal's magic alchemy... but a small blowlamp judiciously applied.

 

My own Mini's balljoints wouldn't come apart with a couple of generic splitters I had sitting around. Bought the MiniSpares scissor-type splitter... and I can't say they then fell apart easily but they did crack before the tool did. No heat required in my case. The MiniSpares one is a brute of a tool.

Edited by alpder, 29 March 2025 - 07:33 PM.

[bpirie1000]

The ball joints are tapered. Release the pressure and should be easier..



Ball joint forks and a hammer tapping on the ball joint mount point usually works a treat..
Long leaver bars and heat if all else fails.

[Spider]

 

Get a better ball joint splitter.

 

cutting things will just make things a whole lot harder.

That is what I have been using. I broke one of the scissor ones and using the fork type with a massive hammer also does not shift it

 

 

Some are better than others.

 

I have a couple of Scissor types that nearly always get it done, the Sykes Pickervant is quite good.

When that fails, I do have a Fork that's a last resort, it has a long handle so I can lay in to it with a lump hammer, that material of the fork is quite broad and so they don't spread like so many others seem to

 

 

[Larco2811]

The ball joints are tapered. Release the pressure and should be easier..



Ball joint forks and a hammer tapping on the ball joint mount point usually works a treat..
Long leaver bars and heat if all else fails.

How should I release the pressue?

Edited by Larco2811, 29 March 2025 - 09:51 PM.

[Larco2811]

 

 

Get a better ball joint splitter.

 

cutting things will just make things a whole lot harder.

That is what I have been using. I broke one of the scissor ones and using the fork type with a massive hammer also does not shift it

 

 

Some are better than others.

 

I have a couple of Scissor types that nearly always get it done, the Sykes Pickervant is quite good.

When that fails, I do have a Fork that's a last resort, it has a long handle so I can lay in to it with a lump hammer, that material of the fork is quite broad and so they don't spread like so many others seem to

 

 

 

 

I have one of the sealey ones.

 

https://www.sealey.c...t-splitter-20mm

 

 

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Edited by Larco2811, 29 March 2025 - 09:55 PM.

[Matpaul]

You could continue with what you have been doing and then a technique you can use is to apply pressure with a scissor type splitter then with the pressure still applied use two hammers to shock the area where the taper is. One fairly large hammer held against the side of the upper or lower control arm where the taper is and then use the other hammer to strike the opposite side of the taper. With the pressure already applied and the deformation to the taper area it should release, usually with a loud bang. You often find evidence of this technique being used previously but if you are careful it doesn’t seem to do any damage. Leave the nut on loosely if you prefer to stop everything falling apart if you don’t want it to. You could also try applying heat to the taper area with a heat gun as an additional incentive. I hope this helps.

[weef]

My go to tool for splitting taper joints, if it will fit in, is the Sykes Picavant scissor type which must be 30 plus years old and used regularly on a wide range of taper joints.

As I say if the tool will fit into the joint it will do its job, keep the forcing bolt thread lubricated, fit the tool and tighten it up as tight as it will go, and then a bit more. Wait a moment and tighten it more, be prepared for a loud bang as the taper joint splits and watch for the tool jumping out.

Sometimes it will need a bit extra, in which case,with the tension on, a sharp rap from a hammer on the finger of the splitter usually does the trick.

When the joints are difficult to split keep winding the pressure up, then rapping with the hammer and winding it a bit more etc.

They can split with a fearsome crack when they go, and remember keep your fingers well out of the way.

I cannot comment on the quality of the modern scissor type tools, my old Sykes tool is superb quality, as i've never needed to replace it.

The fork type tools are also effective at splitting taper joints, but they do tend to damage the rubber gaitor that protects the joint against the ingress of road dirt. When using the fork type you have to ensure that the width of the fork gap allows the pin of the joint to pass through it.

Taper joints never seem to be the same twice, some split easy, others it's brute force that wins the day.