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Voltage Regulator Repair


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#1 gaspen

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Posted 25 March 2025 - 09:52 AM

Hello

 

Working on my 850 I examined the regulator. No surprise : it is rusty but I would like to save it  :proud:

 

Would it be a good idea to replace the flat "wires" to normal wires with eye terminals ? 

 

Some connection are soldered originally. I have soldering equipment but it will be good for these connections ? Will it withsand the heat - if there will be any ?

 

 

Attached File  20250325_104018.jpg   35.46K   4 downloads



#2 68+86auto

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Posted 25 March 2025 - 10:56 AM

Solder will be fine. Soldering is done at around 350°c which is obviously much higher than the temperature that the regulator will see. Use solder with lead (NOT lead free) if you didn't already know that it's superior.


Edited by 68+86auto, 25 March 2025 - 10:57 AM.


#3 alpder

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Posted 25 March 2025 - 11:51 AM

I would clean all the metal before soldering - it's difficult to solder onto corrosion and the rosin in the solder probably won't be enough to get it clean. A flux-pen might be sufficient, though I doubt it. Otherwise a drop of mild acid like vinegar can work but needs to be completely neutralised afterwards with bi-carb of soda and a rinse.

 

Looks like a rivet is missing? Whatever replaces it would need to be solder-compatible - solid (not plated) brass ideally. A new hollow brass rivet or, if not available, a short length of brass or copper tube or even a brass screw perhaps, depending on how original you want to keep it.

 

The body is possibly Bakelite? If so, it'll start to decompose around 300C, which means soldering shouldn't be a problem if done reasonably quickly. Lead/tin solder works at a lower temp than lead-free, so another good reason to use the poisonous stuff. Bakelite cracks fairly easily under tension, so rivets etc should be sloppy fits in the diameters of the holes, not tight.



#4 gaspen

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Posted 25 March 2025 - 02:26 PM

I would clean all the metal before soldering - it's difficult to solder onto corrosion and the rosin in the solder probably won't be enough to get it clean. A flux-pen might be sufficient, though I doubt it. Otherwise a drop of mild acid like vinegar can work but needs to be completely neutralised afterwards with bi-carb of soda and a rinse.

 

Looks like a rivet is missing? Whatever replaces it would need to be solder-compatible - solid (not plated) brass ideally. A new hollow brass rivet or, if not available, a short length of brass or copper tube or even a brass screw perhaps, depending on how original you want to keep it.

 

The body is possibly Bakelite? If so, it'll start to decompose around 300C, which means soldering shouldn't be a problem if done reasonably quickly. Lead/tin solder works at a lower temp than lead-free, so another good reason to use the poisonous stuff. Bakelite cracks fairly easily under tension, so rivets etc should be sloppy fits in the diameters of the holes, not tight.

 

I drilled the rivets already that is why they missing :)

 

I will completely remove those thin, flat "wires" and replace them with normal insulated wires. Using copper srews is a good idea.

 

Flats are 3 x 0,7mm, I guess 2,5mm2 wire will be okay



#5 gaspen

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Posted 27 March 2025 - 07:47 AM

Is it a good idea the replace the shunt resistor ?  How much should be its value?



#6 68+86auto

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Posted 27 March 2025 - 11:51 PM

Is it a good idea the replace the shunt resistor ?  How much should be its value?

 

I would only repair what you need to repair.



#7 gaspen

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Posted 29 March 2025 - 07:28 AM



 



Is it a good idea the replace the shunt resistor ?  How much should be its value?

 

I would only repair what you need to repair.

 

 

Yes  :D

 

Do you know how these connections soldered ? I can not heat them up with my soldering tool.

 

 Attached File  20250329_082457.jpg   48.17K   1 downloads



#8 Lplus

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Posted 29 March 2025 - 08:27 AM

 

 

Is it a good idea the replace the shunt resistor ?  How much should be its value?

 

I would only repair what you need to repair.

 

 

Yes  :D

 

Do you know how these connections soldered ? I can not heat them up with my soldering tool.

 

 attachicon.gif 20250329_082457.jpg

 

Silver solder perhaps? Much higher temperature.



#9 alpder

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Posted 29 March 2025 - 09:04 AM

They may be welded. Even if soldered (which they don;t appear to be from the pic) a 50W+ iron would be needed for those lumps of metal.

 

You may get additional help by asking on the Mk1 Forum... many more owners' cars on there will be generator equipped.



#10 68+86auto

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Posted 29 March 2025 - 11:39 AM

 

 

Is it a good idea the replace the shunt resistor ?  How much should be its value?

 

I would only repair what you need to repair.

 

 

Yes  :D

 

Do you know how these connections soldered ? I can not heat them up with my soldering tool.

 

 attachicon.gif 20250329_082457.jpg

 

 

Spot welded?



#11 gaspen

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Posted Today, 07:20 AM

Well I've put together the regulator and adjusted the clearances by the book but I stll thinking to replace it to a DVR3 unit.

 

I contacted with the seller and he adviced to degrade the load on the dynamo with a 15A unit because of the old field coil but it is pretty little value so I am thinking about replace the coil. 

 

Which manufacturer or shop sells a reliable coil ?



#12 floormanager

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Posted Today, 05:48 PM

Fit a DVR3. I did and all your problems go away.

 

https://dynamoregula...m/products.html

 



#13 gaspen

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Posted Today, 05:56 PM

Fit a DVR3. I did and all your problems go away.

 

https://dynamoregula...m/products.html

 

Yes I think I will go that way. Unfortuntaley the dynamo does not produce more than 2-3 V on the bench






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