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Voltage Regulator Repair


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#1 gaspen

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Posted Yesterday, 09:52 AM

Hello

 

Working on my 850 I examined the regulator. No surprise : it is rusty but I would like to save it  :proud:

 

Would it be a good idea to replace the flat "wires" to normal wires with eye terminals ? 

 

Some connection are soldered originally. I have soldering equipment but it will be good for these connections ? Will it withsand the heat - if there will be any ?

 

 

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#2 68+86auto

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Posted Yesterday, 10:56 AM

Solder will be fine. Soldering is done at around 350°c which is obviously much higher than the temperature that the regulator will see. Use solder with lead (NOT lead free) if you didn't already know that it's superior.


Edited by 68+86auto, Yesterday, 10:57 AM.


#3 alpder

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Posted Yesterday, 11:51 AM

I would clean all the metal before soldering - it's difficult to solder onto corrosion and the rosin in the solder probably won't be enough to get it clean. A flux-pen might be sufficient, though I doubt it. Otherwise a drop of mild acid like vinegar can work but needs to be completely neutralised afterwards with bi-carb of soda and a rinse.

 

Looks like a rivet is missing? Whatever replaces it would need to be solder-compatible - solid (not plated) brass ideally. A new hollow brass rivet or, if not available, a short length of brass or copper tube or even a brass screw perhaps, depending on how original you want to keep it.

 

The body is possibly Bakelite? If so, it'll start to decompose around 300C, which means soldering shouldn't be a problem if done reasonably quickly. Lead/tin solder works at a lower temp than lead-free, so another good reason to use the poisonous stuff. Bakelite cracks fairly easily under tension, so rivets etc should be sloppy fits in the diameters of the holes, not tight.



#4 gaspen

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Posted Yesterday, 02:26 PM

I would clean all the metal before soldering - it's difficult to solder onto corrosion and the rosin in the solder probably won't be enough to get it clean. A flux-pen might be sufficient, though I doubt it. Otherwise a drop of mild acid like vinegar can work but needs to be completely neutralised afterwards with bi-carb of soda and a rinse.

 

Looks like a rivet is missing? Whatever replaces it would need to be solder-compatible - solid (not plated) brass ideally. A new hollow brass rivet or, if not available, a short length of brass or copper tube or even a brass screw perhaps, depending on how original you want to keep it.

 

The body is possibly Bakelite? If so, it'll start to decompose around 300C, which means soldering shouldn't be a problem if done reasonably quickly. Lead/tin solder works at a lower temp than lead-free, so another good reason to use the poisonous stuff. Bakelite cracks fairly easily under tension, so rivets etc should be sloppy fits in the diameters of the holes, not tight.

 

I drilled the rivets already that is why they missing :)

 

I will completely remove those thin, flat "wires" and replace them with normal insulated wires. Using copper srews is a good idea.

 

Flats are 3 x 0,7mm, I guess 2,5mm2 wire will be okay






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