11 replies to this topic

[WillBriggs]

Hello all,

 

I am looking for a little bit of advice on boot floor repairs. I recently took my mini for a Pre-MOT check at a local garage, and they flagged that it had a couple of holes near the rear subframe bolts. I took it back home and started poking around. I found 2 metal plates that have been glued over some rust & holes, then fibreglassed, filled and painted again. 

 

I am looking to repair this section myself, and noticed that various online mini parts shops sell repair sections of the boot floor. From the photos attached, do you think that a repair section will do the job? 

 

Thanks in advance :) 

 

 

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[Gaz66]

That rear section is available as a repair panel and covers the full width of the boot floor and approx 10" into the boot.

[WillBriggs]

I was looking at those earlier. In terms of welding it, would you leave a 1inch overlap and plug weld? 

[sonscar]

It would need to be continuously welded,how do you intend to approach the valance seam?.Tricky repair to keep from project creep.Steve..

[mab01uk]

The Mini-Machine catalogue has lots of useful boot floor repair panels:-

https://www.m-machin...s catalogue.pdf

 

M-Machine website:-

http://preview.m-machine.co.uk/

 

Edited by mab01uk, 16 March 2025 - 11:38 PM.

[slidehammer]

I would go for the rear boot floor repair panel, the fit isn't brilliant but with a bit of work is fine. The tricky bit is separating the rear bumper seam which is 3 panels thick, valence, boot floor and boot aperture. I would expect to find more rust once you start digging, I am afraid.

[stuart bowes]

the bottom edge of the rear panel doesn't look too great either, I'd start with the cheapest simplest job first, clear out the boot, including removal of tank obviously, cable tie all the wiring up out of the way and spend a day in there with a few wire brush drill attachments, clean up all round and keep going till you're seeing at least an inch or so of good metal in all directions, see what that looks like and go from there

 

(goggles and mask, obvs)

Edited by stuart bowes, Yesterday, 06:05 PM.

[Gaz66]

You'll probably find the hinge panel is toast too when you start poking about.
This may sound bad but actually simplifies the boot repair as you can fit the lot in one go along with a valance 👍

Edited by Gaz66, Yesterday, 06:08 PM.

[Stu1961]

I had very similar issues in that area, ended up using the left and right hand repair panels from Mini-Machine, they are an excellent fit.

 

You may find the rear valance closure panels will need replacing as well as they seem to rot from the inside out, and just for good measure I replaced the rear valance with a Heritage one.

 

This my personal opinion and worked for me but when it came to tackling the rear panel I used the one that goes up to and includes the lower edge of the rear screen instead of the other option that cuts through the boot opening, overall finishing of was so much easier and it guarantees the boot lid will fit correctly.

 

Lastly resist removing the rear panel until the boot floor is all completed as I found it acts as a perfect datum.       

[WillBriggs]

It would need to be continuously welded,how do you intend to approach the valance seam?.Tricky repair to keep from project creep.Steve..

Okay - My plan was to cut out the valance, then grind down the seam until it's just the boot aperture seam left - then spot or plug weld a new valance, boot floor repair section and the boot aperture back together.
 

 

I would go for the rear boot floor repair panel, the fit isn't brilliant but with a bit of work is fine. The tricky bit is separating the rear bumper seam which is 3 panels thick, valence, boot floor and boot aperture. I would expect to find more rust once you start digging, I am afraid.

Good shout, thanks for the advice - yep, I expect to find more I've been a few videos of people using the repair panels, and they had to shape them quite a bit.

 

 

the bottom edge of the rear panel doesn't look too great either, I'd start with the cheapest simplest job first, clear out the boot, including removal of tank obviously, cable tie all the wiring up out of the way and spend a day in there with a few wire brush drill attachments, clean up all round and keep going till you're seeing at least an inch or so of good metal in all directions, see what that looks like and go from there

 

(goggles and mask, obvs)

Good shout, thanks for the advice - I've only got a small wire brush attachment for the drill at the moment, but I'll order a flappy wheel for the grinder and do this before ordering any replacement panels. 

 

 

I had very similar issues in that area, ended up using the left and right hand repair panels from Mini-Machine, they are an excellent fit.

 

You may find the rear valance closure panels will need replacing as well as they seem to rot from the inside out, and just for good measure I replaced the rear valance with a Heritage one.

 

This my personal opinion and worked for me but when it came to tackling the rear panel I used the one that goes up to and includes the lower edge of the rear screen instead of the other option that cuts through the boot opening, overall finishing of was so much easier and it guarantees the boot lid will fit correctly.

 

Lastly resist removing the rear panel until the boot floor is all completed as I found it acts as a perfect datum.       

 

Really helpful, thanks for the advice Stu :) 

[sonscar]

There are three layers at the flange.Remove the valance and boot floor and if possible try to salvage the top hinge panel flange to drill through and plug weld the repair.The joint to the boot floor has to be continuously welded for MOT.Easy but tedious fix.Enjoy.Steve..

[WillBriggs]

There are three layers at the flange.Remove the valance and boot floor and if possible try to salvage the top hinge panel flange to drill through and plug weld the repair.The joint to the boot floor has to be continuously welded for MOT.Easy but tedious fix.Enjoy.Steve..

Thanks for the advice Steve, you've confirmed what I had in mind   !