
#1
Posted 15 March 2025 - 09:51 AM
I was going to be putting this in my parents old mk2, I know they fit better with a remote change gearbox, and we do have a 22g1128 but I think it’s from a Austin 1300 or something, the remote housing is different and I’d most likely need to adjust it. Again I’m new to all this, only 20yrs old and have the backed mini knowledge from my dad.
Any guidance at all would be very appreciated. This car hasn’t been on the road since 1992 so i think it’s about time. Sorry for the waffle.
#2
Posted 15 March 2025 - 10:14 AM
Re: gearbox.
My Mk2 (estate) had an 850 and magic-wand gearbox when it came to me. Now has a 1275 with a "remote" gearbox but with a direct (i.e. magic wand) gearstick on it. The direct gearbox was a simple swap - no mods to the shell required. Gear selection is surprisingly positive, if a bit slow - but I get none of the "stirring a pudding" and "they're all in there somewhere" issues that I've heard complained about with magic wands.
The 1275 A+'s cogs were in far better condition that the ones in my direct (pre-A+) gearbox, so I swapped them in, too. Only one minor mod required to the casting, using a cone-cut to make a small countersink to accommodate the layshaft.
You're a long way off from this issue, but before fitting the 998 and whatever gearbox you decide on, do fit the correct ratio speedo drive gears, to match your components.
Edited by alpder, 15 March 2025 - 10:25 AM.
#3
Posted 15 March 2025 - 10:26 AM
After installing the engine in the car, always get some oil pressure before starting it for the first time or after a long period of not being run.
Regaining Oil Pressure After Long-Term "Mini" Storage:-
https://www.7ent.com...ni-storage.html
#4
Posted 15 March 2025 - 05:01 PM
The 1300's had a different way the shifter fitted up to the gearbox, via a rubber mount, as you've already noted. The shifter Extension housing on a Mini had no rubber between the housing and the gearbox and it also doubled as an engine steady.
While you can use the 1300 extension shifter. it would be wise to also add an engine steady to the radiator end of the engine.
#5
Posted 15 March 2025 - 08:12 PM
Mine was sat for 25y. I put a bit of oil in the spark plug holes and ran it on the starter with no plugs for a while to get everything moving. Then put them back in and it fired right up like it was last run yesterday. The cooling system was a bit full of sludge so I recommend running some of those flushing products. I replaced the rad and all the hoses just to be sure (time is not kind to anything made of rubber).
#6
Posted 16 March 2025 - 11:35 AM
Hi all, relatively new to all this and I was hoping some of you may be able to guide me. I recently just bought a standard 998 engine. It has been sat for roughly 10 years but it turns over fine and so far that’s all I have to go on. I’m hoping to get this engine going but not entirely sure how much work is needed or even where to start. I was thinking most likely take the head off and have a look at what’s going on underneath. I was thinking of getting a new head entirely, something like a 12g295 as that’s what I’ve heard is a good upgrade.
I was going to be putting this in my parents old mk2, I know they fit better with a remote change gearbox, and we do have a 22g1128 but I think it’s from a Austin 1300 or something, the remote housing is different and I’d most likely need to adjust it. Again I’m new to all this, only 20yrs old and have the backed mini knowledge from my dad.
Any guidance at all would be very appreciated. This car hasn’t been on the road since 1992 so i think it’s about time. Sorry for the waffle.
The 12G295 head will need serious skimming for a 998 to get any kind of reasonable compression ratio and there aren't many about. A lightly modified 12G202 1098 head might be preferrable. The 1100/1300 remote gearbox does fit but I seem to recall the engine leans forward slightly compared to a normal remote. (might be backwards though - it's a long time ago) An adjustable top steady would be required .
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