12 replies to this topic

[coopertrooper2001]

I am looking to buy a 2000 MPi Mini.

 

I appreciate this is a minefield, but I am just looking for some ball park figures on each of the following items, so I know roughly what I could be in for (I know there are lots of ifs and buts)

 

1. Sill replacement - MOT remarks on corrosions around the jacking points, but I imagine the inner sills will need work too.
2. Corrosion around the front subframe rear mounts
3. Rear subframe replacement and any likely areas of body mounting points that would need work

 

Thanks

 

[crossthread]

My answer is going to be no help at all I'm afraid. If it was my business I would need to see the car,  and even then I wouldn't give an estimate without some stripping. At the very least I would want the Subframe removed first. The price would also depend on the standard of work you require, restoration or MOT welding. If I was particularly busy I might even turn you away in favour of easier work. Harsh ,I know, but business is business.  ( I was a Panel Beater and Estimator in a Bodyshop for 45 years)  Sorry if I seem  a bit negative . Or you could learn new skills and get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

[Quinlan minor]

The price is dependent on so many factors: location and reputation being only two.

Beware of finding someone who's too cheap. That'll, more often than not, turn out to be more expensive in the long run.

Find someone who comes recommended and pay what it costs.

[sonscar]

Possibly less than £5K,though could be more or less depending as previously mentioned expectations.Sill repair may involve painting rear quarters etc.Steve..

[Shifty]

Without even seeing the car I know it will need more work than you think. Door step, flitch, rear wheel arches and boot floor. If you pull the top dash rail out you'll find the dash rail is rotted out. Scuttle will probably be gone due to the rail. A panels will need to be replaced to do the glitches.

Boot floor corners are a favourite, door skins and the mountings for the hinges usually rot as well

[stuart bowes]

agreed with all above, but to go in a slightly different direction what's your budget and are you particularly dedicated to that car for some reason?

 

anything's possible, you could solve all 3 points you listed (and a few you probably haven't noticed yet) with a new toe board, complete floor including sills (supplied as one piece) and a new boot floor (ignoring for moment everything else that's likely to be rusty)

 

might be an overkill approach but would give you a really solid base to work with

 

maybe get an estimate for that, as a starting point (it won't be cheap)

Edited by stuart bowes, 11 March 2025 - 10:59 PM.

[weef]

If you cannot tackle this sort of work yourself hold fire on this vehicle and have a rethink on the best way forward.

If you think you can gain the skills required to repair it there is nothing more satisfying than doing the work yourself.

If you don't think that is an option then it's time to look for someone who can.

What you have to concider is that skilled repairers are in demand and consequently there will probably be a fair wait time before they can get to your vehicle and it could dissappear into their workshop for a long time.

I think if you do not see yourself tackling the work then look for a vehicle that is already sorted out and use the money saved on repairs to add to your funds, buy something you can enjoy right away.

[mab01uk]

As mentioned above almost unique to MPi Minis is the serious rust often hiding behind the padded dash top rail and the wide windscreen rubber seal. Often looks like non-serious rust bubbles on the scuttle panel just below the windscreen rubber but is often far worse than expected on further inspection and not an easy repair....

Edited by mab01uk, 11 March 2025 - 10:58 PM.

[Cooperman]

The last MPI which came into my family was a 1997. It had an MoT (oh, yeah) and 'a few small bubbles.

However after looking at it in detail before buying we identified a lot of in-depth corrosion and what might have looked like a simple job turned into a huge resto job.

It needed new windscreen scuttle and to of bulkhead replacement (just a few small bubbles!), new inner and outer sills, new A-panels, front subframe to floor repair both sides, new door skin on one door, rear quarter panel repairs plus inside rear side box, rear of boot area and bumper flange plus rear scuttle panel, one new front wing, plus a few more bits and pieces. 

This was my Grandson's car and we did all the work between us, only paying for a re-paint which was done at 'mates rates' by a friend.

I reckon had we had to pay for the work to be done, it would have cost more than the eventual value of the car. It cost us just the price of the new panels. 

If you buy a Mini, you do need to be either rich or have the skills to DIY.

[s2ulk]

Having had a recent experience where I had repairs costed up by a reputable garage, the estimate for inner sill repair and outer sill replacement was approx £3k plus vat but that soon became £5-£6k plus vat once the oversills came off. Agree with the above comment that you either DIY or need plenty of disposable income

[sonscar]

I fail to see why prices suddenly ramp up due to unforseen rust.Any restorer of old tat knows the rust prone areas or can use Google.Price for worst case and reduce if not as bad as thought.The low ball and then now we have dismantled your car we need xxx is not very nice.Just my thoughts,Steve..

[stuart bowes]

yeah but if you highball, the customer goes to the person who lowballs it 

[Cooperman]

I am doing an MG Midget restoration with my Grandson and yesterday we positioned and welded in the rear spring forward mounts. It has surprised me how simple it is compared to the Mini body structure. Access is so easy and all the body panels are available and not expensive.
If you can’t DIY on a Mini you must expect high bills for the work.