14 replies to this topic

[TownsHustlerKit]

Does anyone know how to remove the two bushes (part no: 2A3502) from a remote change casting?

I have removed the aluminum diff housing from the rear of the gearbox and am trying to knock out the worn control shaft bushes with a long thin drift.

It looks like the bushes were originally pressed into the top and bottom of the shaft tunnel within the aluminum housing at the factory.

The problem is that the drift keeps slipping off the chamfered edge of each bush.

Is there a specialist extraction tool for this job? (....anyone know a good keyhole surgeon?)
As the bushes are readily available just about everywhere, I feel sure that I'm not the only one to have come across this problem.

The subject doesn't seem to be covered in any of my workshop manuals (and I can't find on-line solutions either)

 

I have ordered a 'Blind Hole Bearing Puller Tool' from eBay, but I'm doubtful whether it'll do the job.

Any advice would be most appreciated

Many Thanks

 

 

[imack]

I replaced mine around 10 years ago. I'm sure I only drifted them out as you're trying to do. I don't remember having any issues getting them out.

[TownsHustlerKit]

Okay, Thanks for that imack. 

That's given me some more confidence.

I'll press on and maybe shape up another drift to hopefully get a better purchase on the edge of each bush.

[Spider]

I put a thread in them, screw in a bolt, then drift them out, doesn't matter then if the drift slips off the bush. They usually are in tight.

[TownsHustlerKit]

Many Thanks Spider,

I must admit, I've never tried to put a thread into a phosphor bronze bush before.

The I.D. on these is approx 12.5mm so I'll see if a 13 or 14mm tap does the job.

The bush O.D. is 19mm so plenty of meat available if I need to go for a bigger tap (& bolt).

Much appreciated

[Steam]

Ive never done it so you may choose to ignore this but I would find a socket that fits and use a 1/2 inch bar to fashion a makeshift drift.

[Rubbershorts]

I used something like this. It's for removing the DU bush from the eyelet on a mountain bike shock. As the shocks are a lightweight delicate thing smashing them out with a hammer isn't an option. This uses the slow force of pulling against the thread when you turn the nut. I'm not sure exactly what size I used, I have several of these as I use the same method for removing the bearings from my carbon frames. As mentioned, the right sized socket can also be useful if the drift part isn't the correct diameter, which is critical. If you have access to a lathe you can turn down the right size yourself. Plenty of DWD40 helps too. Daz.

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Edited by Rubbershorts, 28 February 2025 - 08:40 AM.

[NLinPEN]

I used something like this. It's for removing the DU bush from the eyelet on a mountain bike shock. As the shocks are a lightweight delicate thing smashing them out with a hammer isn't an option. This uses the slow force of pulling against the thread when you turn the nut. I'm not sure exactly what size I used, I have several of these as I use the same method for removing the bearings from my carbon frames. As mentioned, the right sized socket can also be useful if the drift part isn't the correct diameter, which is critical. If you have access to a lathe you can turn down the right size yourself. Plenty of DWD40 helps too. Daz.

This technique works like a charm if there is enough space at the rear of the bush for the nut to fit in. I have used this method to remove a so-called spigot bush at the rear of my 1964 MGB engine. This video clearly shows how to do it:  https://youtu.be/wkJ...DXLovXAq8zjq4ti

 

[TownsHustlerKit]

Many Thanks to both Steam and Rubbershorts,

 

The problem is that the bushes are pressed into the top and bottom of a tunnel cast into the aluminum casing.

Consequently, I can't get access to the bushes from the inside the casing. If I put a long thin drift through the upper bush I can only just make contact

with the inner edge of the lower bush in order to knock the lower bush out. (...however as the bushes are chamfered, the drift slips off easily )

 

In a perfect world, what I would like is an expanding socket that will shrink down through the bore of the first bush, and then expand out into the tunnel to rest against the edge of the second bush.

That way, I could either drift both socket and bush out as suggested by Steam, or use a bolt to apply a slow even pulling force as suggested by Rubbershorts.

 

I have ordered a cheap 'Blind Hole Bearing Puller Tool' from eBay. This uses an expanding collet combined with a pulling assembly to withdraw bearings from the outside, but I'm doubtful whether it'll do the job.

From the photos it looks like one of the collets will fit within the bush bore, but as it's designed just to extract shallow bearings, the stepped collet may not be deep enough for the job.

If this does work I will let everyone know... Just waiting for the delivery at present.

 

Failing this I might try the solution suggested by spider if I can obtain the right sized thread taps.

 

Many Thanks guys, If there are any further ingenious ideas, solutions or useful advice on this headache, I would be most grateful

Edited by TownsHustlerKit, 28 February 2025 - 10:48 AM.

[TownsHustlerKit]

Many Thanks NLinPEN,

That looks really great!

However, is the end of the bolt pushing against a solid surface?

If so, there's nothing in the tunnel on my casting for the end of the bolt to push against.

Having said that, there's no reason why I can't use this extraction method with the ebay pulling assembly.

This might just work!

I'll post up the results.

[NLinPEN]

Many Thanks NLinPEN,

That looks really great!

However, is the end of the bolt pushing against a solid surface?

If so, there's nothing in the tunnel on my casting for the end of the bolt to push against.

Having said that, there's no reason why I can't use this extraction method with the ebay pulling assembly.

This might just work!

I'll post up the results.

Your question: "However, is the end of the bolt pushing against a solid surface?"

The answer: yes, in that video the hole where he puts in the bolt has a bottom end. So the end of the bolt will push against that end.

This technique doesn't work in case the hole is open on the other end. I'm sorry if this has confused you, and the issue you are facing.

[Spider]

Many Thanks Spider,

I must admit, I've never tried to put a thread into a phosphor bronze bush before.

The I.D. on these is approx 12.5mm so I'll see if a 13 or 14mm tap does the job.

The bush O.D. is 19mm so plenty of meat available if I need to go for a bigger tap (& bolt).

Much appreciated

 

The tap I use is an M14. A course thread is best here.

[TownsHustlerKit]

Hi Everyone,

Thank you for all your gems of wisdom and guidance. I don't know where else I would have gone for a resolution on this headache.

 

I finally received the 'Blind Hole Bearing Puller Tool' from Ebay, and as expected it wasn't suitable for extracting my (much deeper) gear change bushes.

I did try to grind down one of the stepped expanding collets to fit, but with the kit (unsurprisingly) being made of minimal material, the thing just fell apart.

 

Many Thanks for your valuable advice Spider ; I was about to drive out and obtain a 14mm Tap to thread the bushes as recommended, however (in a moment of sheer frustration) I tried again to smack the bushes out with the long drift that I had previously reground to a smart square face.

Lo and behold! to my utter amazement, one of the bushes actually shifted this time. .....

 

Consequently, with the casting supported on a wooden workbench plus careful and firm use of hammer and drift, the bushes were finally extracted as imack had originally suggested.

(Thanks imack) .

 

The insertion of the new bushes has been simplicity itself. (I used the old bushes to help press the new ones into place, to avoid damage.)

 

I'm pleased to say that, with the new bushes in place, the gear change control shaft no longer rattles around sideways. So hopefully gear selection through the linkage will be a little more positive (........here's hoping anyway! ) 

[gav]

 

Many Thanks Spider,

I must admit, I've never tried to put a thread into a phosphor bronze bush before.

The I.D. on these is approx 12.5mm so I'll see if a 13 or 14mm tap does the job.

The bush O.D. is 19mm so plenty of meat available if I need to go for a bigger tap (& bolt).

Much appreciated

 

The tap I use is an M14. A course thread is best here.

 

 

Old cone compressor works wonders for this as they are M14x2, Rich at MS York told me this trick :)

[TownsHustlerKit]

Hi gav,

Nice one! This looks like a good wrinkle to avoid taking a hammer to the cast ali assembly.

Surely a savvy trick-of-the-trade that's worth repeating to others!

All the Best and once again Thanks to all