16 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

I will say that Wurth and Presto are some of the ones i have stashed around the garage although i do have some cheap and cheerful ones as well.

 

Deadsquare has mentioned the best way fwd with using cheaper varieties although it applies to any tap. Slowly slowly and plenty of oil / lube otherwise if you are very lucky to be able pick the broken fragments out or you will need a small die grinder with a carbide burr.

 

I have spent many hours trying to rescue threads caused by members of the team getting too heavy handed with taps and breaking the damn tap. As long as i have access and the carbide burr kit has not been abused i can the majority of the time remove the broken tap. If in doubt just STOP and reassess.

[Shooter63]

I presume you are asking about a m14 tap as you plan to thread your oil ways, if so you need a plug tap otherwise known as a no3 or bottom tap, which is the one with hardly any feed, using one of those will allow you to feel when you touch the existing stop in the block, if you go in with a no1/taper tap you could quite easily go past this point ending up with the bung too deep. If possible set the block up on either a mill or a drill press, centre the hole you want to tap on the feed quill, fit a centre in the chuck, use the dimple in the end of the tap to keep everything square and off you go, tap away. The last thing you want is a thread of the piss.

Shooter

Yes, that's exactly what I'm doing.
I just realised too after buying the wrong grub screws that the gallery hole thread ability (is that a term?) is dependent on the pitch of the grub screw.
I bought 2mm pitch which I believe is wrong.
I can't measure the gallery hole as the block is at the machine shop but from what I've read it's 12.5mm which would require a pitch of 1.5mm?

Correctamondo.

Shooter