Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Clutch Release Bearing


  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 maccers

maccers

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,853 posts
  • Location: Epsom
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 06 February 2025 - 06:04 PM

I've a hell of a rattle that goes when the clutch pedal is pushed in a small bit when in neutral engine running. Suspect it may be clutch release bearing. 

 

Seeing as I am going to be in that area of the engine/box and the clutch is slipping a lot, and the jiggle pin at the bottom of the casing is dripping oil a lot, I was going to replace the clutch. 

 

Engine was re-built in 2012 to accommodate supercharger with new clutch, so assume its had enough abuse! 

 

Question is: engine out or leave in and work around it to replace bearing/clutch and other sundries along the way?



#2 Steve220

Steve220

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,016 posts
  • Location: Shropshire
  • Local Club: BMC

Posted 06 February 2025 - 06:19 PM

You can replace the clutch in situ, although you'll need a good puller and check for room. The seals leak if there's not enough breathers on a boosted car.

#3 maccers

maccers

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,853 posts
  • Location: Epsom
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 06 February 2025 - 07:08 PM

Ok cheers for that. I've got the timing chain breather, clutch housing breather and modified rocker cover with breather pipe all going to a catch tank with a vac take off from the throttle body. Oh and I seem to recall where the fuel pump used to be at the back of the engine is also now a breather pipe that goes to catch tank. 

 

Where else would benefit from breathing? 



#4 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,226 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 06 February 2025 - 07:41 PM

You need to replace the primary gear oil seal with the latest type, fit a new clutch centre plate and a new thrust bearing. It’s also a good idea to fit a new clevis pin through the clutch arm.
It can all be done ‘in situ’ so long as you have a really good flywheel puller. Also, get a flywheel locking tool as for what it costs it makes the job much easier.

#5 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,745 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 06 February 2025 - 08:06 PM

I prefer the Mini Spares Primary Gear Oil Seals. I've used countless of them over the years, never had an issue with any of them.

I don't like the Black MPi ones as they groove the Primary Gear.



#6 maccers

maccers

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,853 posts
  • Location: Epsom
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 07 February 2025 - 08:28 AM

You need to replace the primary gear oil seal with the latest type, fit a new clutch centre plate and a new thrust bearing. It’s also a good idea to fit a new clevis pin through the clutch arm.
It can all be done ‘in situ’ so long as you have a really good flywheel puller. Also, get a flywheel locking tool as for what it costs it makes the job much easier.

 Thanks for the tips! Its a 1293 draw through super charger setup, makes a fair bit of power around 140 last time on the RR. What clutch would be suitable? 






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users