10 replies to this topic

[Jaybraham]

1990 Rover Checkmate, 998

Can anyone help with identifying the above models wiring diagram either on this forum or Haynes manual. I have a suspicion which it might within the manual but could use help confirming it.

I plan to "unmodify" the 6 spade fuse box fitted by previous owner, wiring the original 4 fuses as per wiring diagram/Haynes manual information and in lines as they should be so I know it's correct with the right ratings before I start to add new electronic items into the car and overload circuits which are currently not as they were designed.

If there's any easy ways to identify the loom without fully removing it I would very interested in knowing the tricks and the how.

Thanks in advance

[nicklouse]

Jay have a look in the posts above or your manual and go for the closest year before your build year.

[68+86auto]

If you look up "Lucas wiring colours" you can work it out without even using a diagram.

[andyapanel]

It’s in my Haynes, but the code page is not opposite the diagram, which is bonkers.

[Designer]

Hi,

 

I found the same problem so just scanned both and printed them off made life so much easier.

 

Paddy

[Jaybraham]

It’s in my Haynes, but the code page is not opposite the diagram, which is bonkers.

Yeah I have found this to be the case. I believe its diagram 18 in the Haynes manual which is exactly that, key one side diagram on the other, would you agree for a 1990 rover it's likely to be 18?

Edited by Jaybraham, 03 February 2025 - 12:46 PM.

[sonscar]

Personally to install additional electric bits I like to run a new supply from the solenoid to a new dedicated fuse box.No overloading existing wiring,no modifying existing wiring and can be easily removed if needed.Just my view.Steve..

[Ethel]

Look for some of the key differences & pick a diagram that matches which you have: Dim dip relay & resistor; separate & fused headlight circuits; instrument cluster manufacturer...

 

You'll also have to figure out how they were adapted for the blade box. The 35 amp glass fuse doesn't really have an equivalent blade fuse. If the conversion was done properly, the protected circuits should have been split between 2 or more appropriately rated fuses. It may be some of the line fuses were moved on the fuse box instead.

 

This topic should be useful, https://www.theminif...s-covered-data/

[Jaybraham]

Personally to install additional electric bits I like to run a new supply from the solenoid to a new dedicated fuse box.No overloading existing wiring,no modifying existing wiring and can be easily removed if needed.Just my view.Steve..

Yeah this would also be my preferred but the owner before the previous did the changes and I'd like to undo the changes (within reason) and then add a new dedicated fusebox to control anything extra I've decided I would like to add.

[Jaybraham]

Look for some of the key differences & pick a diagram that matches which you have: Dim dip relay & resistor; separate & fused headlight circuits; instrument cluster manufacturer...

You'll also have to figure out how they were adapted for the blade box. The 35 amp glass fuse doesn't really have an equivalent blade fuse. If the conversion was done properly, the protected circuits should have been split between 2 or more appropriately rated fuses. It may be some of the line fuses were moved on the fuse box instead.

This topic should be useful, https://www.theminif...s-covered-data/

Yeah I've looked at this a few times and the info is directly accurate and relatively to my Hayes manual however with the original fusebox already replaced from 4 to 6 and blades used in place of glass it's just trying to get all 6 back to 4 (so I know what does what as per diagrams) then go from there. Appreciated however

[Ethel]

The linked topic should tell  you what should be where. Like I said, you'll have to work out what is where on the blade fuses first. Have the original 4 been split in to six, or have a couple of line fuses been deleted & hooked up to the spare blades.