Would these be ok to use as threaded gallery plugs?
Not sure about the flanged heads.
https://www.ebay.co....emis&media=COPY
Threading Oil Galleries
Started by
Gaz66
, Jan 25 2025 10:37 AM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Gaz66
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Posted 25 January 2025 - 10:37 AM
#2
nicklouse
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Posted 25 January 2025 - 10:49 AM
Nope. Just grub screws they need to be flush/sunken.
#3
Gaz66
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Posted 25 January 2025 - 11:00 AM
👍Nope. Just grub screws they need to be flush/sunken.
#4
PoolGuy
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#5
Spider
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Posted 25 January 2025 - 06:01 PM
For the Main Gallery, I just use M14 Cup Point Grub Screws with Loctite 243 for sealant.
The hole that's already drilled in the block is the right tapping size for M14. I only tap them deep enough such that the Cup Point will seat on the shoulder inside the drilling for the original plug (that is in fact the Main Gallery itself).
#6
Shooter63
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Posted Yesterday, 09:23 AM
For the Main Gallery, I just use M14 Cup Point Grub Screws with Loctite 243 for sealant.
The hole that's already drilled in the block is the right tapping size for M14. I only tap them deep enough such that the Cup Point will seat on the shoulder inside the drilling for the original plug (that is in fact the Main Gallery itself).
That's a very good point by Spider, it's been known for people to get a bit enthusiastic with a taper tap type fixing in an attempt to get the bung flush and close off the head feed oil. Using a bottom tap the shoulder will act as a natural stop.
Shooter
#7
nicklouse
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Posted Yesterday, 10:30 AM
On reason the oil pressure take off was changed from a taper thread to a parallel thread.
#8
Gaz66
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Posted Yesterday, 10:42 PM
For the Main Gallery, I just use M14 Cup Point Grub Screws with Loctite 243 for sealant.
The hole that's already drilled in the block is the right tapping size for M14. I only tap them deep enough such that the Cup Point will seat on the shoulder inside the drilling for the original plug (that is in fact the Main Gallery itself).
That's handy being ready to tap at M14 👍
Is there a maximum length for the grub screw?
The ones I've come across are 1/2"
#9
Spider
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Posted Today, 02:32 AM
I think the ones I'm using are 16 mm long - I'd need to check.
On the 1275 Blocks, I find these don't need to end up flush or under the block. The odd one may need a small relief in the front engine plate, but most aren't an issue. On a small bore block, these do usually need to be flush or under on the front of the block, the rear isn't an issue.
Be sure to use Cup Point types. most common ones are Knurl Point. There's a good chance these will leak !
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