14 replies to this topic

[thewabbit]

Hi all

 

Recently purchased a 1976 Clubman, 1100cc.

 

Up until today it is started first pop with no issues. Today was the same, started up with full choke, no issues. I got about 200m down the road and as I was turning the corner it died. Tried starting again, no luck. Tried a few more times and I eventually flooded the engine.

 

Thankfully a mate was just around the corner so came and gave me a push home. Got it home and we pulled cylinder 1 plug and it was wet - as expected. We tested it against the block got no spark. Called another mate and he suggested removing the tacho from the coil, tried that and still no spark.

 

Sort of assumed at that point that the coil had gone (was Lucas branded and looked quiet old), got a new Goss coil and fitted that. Still no spark.

 

We pulled the HT lead from the coil to the distributor and held that against the block and got a spark. So we're confident that spark is coming from the coil.

 

I tested all the HT leads and they were reading ~23k ohm. On the exterior they look in very good condition

 

Now this car has an Lumenition ignition kit, I believe it is this one https://www.demon-tw...ystem-lumpma50/

 

I've taken the distributor cap off and given it a good clean with isopropyl (it looked in good condtion) and given the rotor as much of a clean as I can. That still didn't give any spark from any of the leads.

 

What should I do next? I find it weird that it suddenly stopped. Could the rotor have gone bad? or the cap?

 

Keen for any thoughts or advice on what to check.

Much appreciated

 

 

 

[Spider]

Hi and welcome to our forum.

I'd have a guess here from the tests you've done that it's likely your Rotor Button,

[thewabbit]

Thanks, suspected that might be the case, I'll get a new one ordered. I'm hoping it is something as simple as that and not needing to replace the Lumenition kit!

[timmy850]

Those leads sound past their best. New ones should be under 5K ohms per lead 

[thewabbit]

Those leads sound past their best. New ones should be under 5K ohms per lead 

Cheers, i'll add that to the list too :)

[andyapanel]

I went through two on a kit car. They seemed to fail randomly and then restart.
I think I read that the modules did not like getting hot.
I have a magnetronic on my mini and I am going to get rid of it as it prevents the rotor arm seating deeply enough, which makes the carbon brush on the distributor cap very unhappy.

[thewabbit]

I went through two on a kit car. They seemed to fail randomly and then restart.
I think I read that the modules did not like getting hot.
I have a magnetronic on my mini and I am going to get rid of it as it prevents the rotor arm seating deeply enough, which makes the carbon brush on the distributor cap very unhappy.

By "I went through two" and "the modules" i'm assuming you're meaning the Lumenition control box?
 

It's mounted right behind the grill, so does get plenty of air flow over it. I imagine heat would only become an issue for it in summer and standstill traffic

[andyapanel]

Lumenition replaced the entire kit when I had complained enough times.

 

Mine was mounted on the kit car's subframe and had a lot of airflow over it. I can't believe the modules were ever hot. I think they were just badly made. The rotors were made to break, too: the vanes seemed pretty fragile.

 

I am going to try my luck with a Petronix next.

[Spider]

Thanks, suspected that might be the case, I'll get a new one ordered. I'm hoping it is something as simple as that and not needing to replace the Lumenition kit!

 

I should have suggested it in my first post, but I'd suggest replacing the cap at the same time and while your leads work, they aren't the best.

[thewabbit]

Thanks, suspected that might be the case, I'll get a new one ordered. I'm hoping it is something as simple as that and not needing to replace the Lumenition kit!

I should have suggested it in my first post, but I'd suggest replacing the cap at the same time and while your leads work, they aren't the best.

You're all good 😊 I've got new leads, rotor and cap on the way.

Pulled the rotor off this morning and it's covered in rust, so suspect that there were lots of little problems that have added up to a big one!


https://i.imgur.com/QpRohLk.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Eodooeh.jpeg

Edited by thewabbit, 18 January 2025 - 09:20 PM.

[sonscar]

When you reassemble it put a few drops of oil in the top of the shaft,Steve..

[thewabbit]

New rotor, cap, coil and leads installed and it's back running. Not sure which one was the culprit, but it's working now so that's all that matters in my book!

Edited by thewabbit, 21 January 2025 - 02:59 AM.

[bpirie1000]

Well done. Maintenance bits really. But solving the issue is always very satisfying.

[68+86auto]

It's a good idea to change one item at a time even if you are going to replace it all anyway. That way you know which part is defective and can be thrown out instead of becoming a faulty spare sitting around.

Edited by 68+86auto, 22 January 2025 - 10:35 PM.

[thewabbit]

It's a good idea to change one item at a time even if you are going to replace it all anyway. That way you know which part is defective and can be thrown out instead of becoming a faulty spare sitting around.

Good idea, i had earmarked them all for the bin. It's meant to be a wet and cold weekend here (thanks summer) so sounds like a good opportunity to figure out what i can keep as a emergency spare.