10 replies to this topic

[babsbrown]

Evening guys,

Apologies for another seemingly daft question. I've searched the forum and I'm getting mixed opinions here.

Will my 998A+ flywheel and clutch housing fit the A 1098 block? That's including the housing, and outer Wok bell housing?

Am I right in thinking I'd need to change the needle bearing in there?

Thanks in advance, Babs

[Shooter63]

The gearbox and clutch housing must match,you will also need the right drop gears as A+ have a different tooth form. You can fit early drop gears in a later case using the adapter drop bearings, but not the other way round. If you have the original primary and drop gears and your original gearbox and clutch case everything should fit. If you think about it a 1098 is just a 998 with a longer stroke crank with different pistons.

Shooter

[dotmatrix]

you can fit your a+ clutch lid and flywheel and clutch to your a-series engine, box and clutch housing. that's what I have done, even using a cable clutch (metro)

[Spider]

Yes.

The Early A+ Engines from 79 to 82 were put together by the factory in this way.

[babsbrown]

Excellent thanks guys. Spider, when you say put together this way, does that imply that the block (without strengthening ribs etc...)
was essentially a standard A block with all the A+ parts?

Thanks

Edited by babsbrown, Yesterday, 09:52 AM.

[nicklouse]

The wok and transfercase are the same for all clutch types. The only differences are the idler gear bearing size that needs to match the gear box. All the hardware is interchangeable.

 

the casings fitted to the metro did have 3 extra holes for the Metro rear engine mount but that has nothing to do which the clutch assy.

[Ethel]

If I've understood what you're after doing the only issue will be the transfer idler gear because the A+ runs in larger diameter needle roller bearings. If you've got a donor, the simplest solution would be use whole 998 gearbox.

 

This bearing will fit in the A+ transfer cover so you can use the pre A+ gearbox casting & transfer gears.

 

What Spider might have been getting at is the factory matched the gearbox & transfer case as a pair so the two idler bearings lined up within  tolerance. It's possible your A & A+ combo will go together well enough, but it's something worth checking. If they don't, you could have the option of getting the pre A+ gearbox bored out to take an A+ idler bearing, but if you have a full A+ setup... 

 

 

 

 

 

...Should we ask why? What's up with the 1098 'box, perhaps it's repairable???

[Spider]

Excellent thanks guys. Spider, when you say put together this way, does that imply that the block (without strengthening ribs etc...)
was essentially a standard A block with all the A+ parts?

Thanks

 

Actually, other way around, A+ Blocks were fitted up with pre-Verto Flywheels up to about 82 or 83 and the Flywheel housings too will interchange, all you need here is as the other guys have said, the right one to match up with your drop gears, or if using early drop gears, the adaptor bearing.

[babsbrown]

Thanks gents , really appreciate your help.
I bought the 1098 block which was essentially block, crank pistons and head with a couple of ancillaries.

It was missing the rest. I decided to rebuild it as a budget project so I could learn how to. I had a 998A+ in my car already, which worked albeit with a crunchy 2nd gear.

I figured to keep costs sensible I could transfer the gear box, flywheel etc over once I've sorted the synchro. I do have the 1098 dampner which is a bonus so I hope that also fits.

The drop gears seem OK so far on the 998 but I've yet to measure everything properly. The idler gear is missing half a tooth, so I'm really lucky to have found that now and not had it cause and further damage. I'll try and get a good condition used one of those.

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Edited by babsbrown, Yesterday, 10:19 PM.

[Shooter63]

Thanks gents , really appreciate your help.
I bought the 1098 block which was essentially block, crank pistons and head with a couple of ancillaries.

It was missing the rest. I decided to rebuild it as a budget project so I could learn how to. I had a 998A+ in my car already, which worked albeit with a crunchy 2nd gear.

I figured to keep costs sensible I could transfer the gear box, flywheel etc over once I've sorted the synchro. I do have the 1098 dampner which is a bonus so I hope that also fits.

The drop gears seem OK so far on the 998 but I've yet to measure everything properly. The idler gear is missing half a tooth, so I'm really lucky to have found that now and not had it cause and further damage. I'll try and get a good condition used one of those.

I'm pretty sure I've got an A+ idler knocking about somewhere in the dark corners of my workshop, if I can find it you can have it to get you out the sh#t

Shooter

[babsbrown]

Thanks gents , really appreciate your help.
I bought the 1098 block which was essentially block, crank pistons and head with a couple of ancillaries.

It was missing the rest. I decided to rebuild it as a budget project so I could learn how to. I had a 998A+ in my car already, which worked albeit with a crunchy 2nd gear.

I figured to keep costs sensible I could transfer the gear box, flywheel etc over once I've sorted the synchro. I do have the 1098 dampner which is a bonus so I hope that also fits.

The drop gears seem OK so far on the 998 but I've yet to measure everything properly. The idler gear is missing half a tooth, so I'm really lucky to have found that now and not had it cause and further damage. I'll try and get a good condition used one of those.

I'm pretty sure I've got an A+ idler knocking about somewhere in the dark corners of my workshop, if I can find it you can have it to get you out the sh#t

Shooter

Ahh thanks mate that's really kind of you, cheers