Low Oil Pressure
#1
Posted 16 January 2025 - 07:43 PM
At cold start up it sits at 500kpa at 1000rpm and then slowly drops as it warms up.
My plan is to get as much as possible out of this engine before I have the GTS engine and gearbox rebuilt by someone better skilled than me.
In the meantime, is there something I can do to get the oil pressure higher as a temporary option?
#2
Posted 16 January 2025 - 08:11 PM
Ok 100kpa is about 14lbs
300 is about 45lbs
500 is about 70lbs
first thing I would do is remove the pressure release valve and check condition and clean it and everything else in the area.
it could be sticking.
standard valve “blows” at 70lbs
if after cleaning and checking it is moving freely you have the same issue then I would say engine out time.
#3
Posted 16 January 2025 - 08:30 PM
If it is a case of engine out, I'll probably do this one's repair myself and try to do a better job than before.
Let's hope though that a new relief valve helps with the problem
#4
Posted 16 January 2025 - 08:35 PM
I noticed that mine doesn't go over the 500kpa when cold, even if I rev it up the 2000rpm. When cold it also doesn't make that whining noise I mentioned.
#5
Posted 16 January 2025 - 10:38 PM
#6
Posted 16 January 2025 - 11:54 PM
Working off the Metric -> Imperial conversion that Nick has done, there's nothing in the world wrong with it.
#7
Posted 17 January 2025 - 05:15 AM
Or will an oil additive and/or increasing relief valve spring tension buy me some time with this engine. I'd likely increase spring tension first and test before adding an oil additive if it'll help treat the symptoms for now.
Edited by miniGTS, 17 January 2025 - 05:39 AM.
#8
Posted 17 January 2025 - 07:19 AM
What he means is the standard pressure relief valve opens when the pressure gets to 70psi (500kpa) and the pressure doesn’t get any higher than that
Mine opens at 60 psi hot at about 2750rpm and never goes above about 65 -70 even at peak revs. Cold it still blows at 60 psi but goes to 75 or more cold with revs. I tried a cooper S ball and spring but that didn't blow off till about 75 hot and made 90 + cold. Oddly after blowing off hot the Cooper S ball alloed he pressure to drop to 70 psi before rising again with revs.
I understood that the pressure specification requires 60 psi at 3000rpm hot.
Edited by Lplus, 17 January 2025 - 07:21 AM.
#9
Posted 17 January 2025 - 08:02 AM
What he means is the standard pressure relief valve opens when the pressure gets to 70psi (500kpa) and the pressure doesn’t get any higher than that
Mine opens at 60 psi hot at about 2750rpm and never goes above about 65 -70 even at peak revs. Cold it still blows at 60 psi but goes to 75 or more cold with revs. I tried a cooper S ball and spring but that didn't blow off till about 75 hot and made 90 + cold. Oddly after blowing off hot the Cooper S ball alloed he pressure to drop to 70 psi before rising again with revs.
I understood that the pressure specification requires 60 psi at 3000rpm hot.
The AKD4935 manual says the following for 850cc engines:
Relief valve opens 60psi
"Normal running" 60psi
"Idling (minimum)" 15psi
The Cooper & S engines:
Relief valve opens 70psi
"Normal running" 70psi
"Idling (minimum)" 15psi
"Oil pressure (normal running) 60psi at 70C oil temp
There are many different springs available now, plus they get old and relax, plus the tolerances between the plunger and bore wear out over time.
#10
Posted 17 January 2025 - 11:15 AM
... I'm ordering the ball type valve and new spring and will see after that. ...
Might be a backward move ... they can 'flutter' ...
#11
Posted 17 January 2025 - 11:57 AM
... I'm ordering the ball type valve and new spring and will see after that. ...
Might be a backward move ... they can 'flutter' ...
Thanks for that feedback. So I'll try what I saw on a MG forum where they added some thick washers inside the cap to add tension to the spring.
It seems my pressure isn't too far off the minimum spec so if I can do something small to get the pressure up, that should keep it going for a while longer before the cause gets worse... I assume...
#12
Posted 17 January 2025 - 12:19 PM
... I'm ordering the ball type valve and new spring and will see after that. ...
Might be a backward move ... they can 'flutter' ...
Thanks for that feedback. So I'll try what I saw on a MG forum where they added some thick washers inside the cap to add tension to the spring.
It seems my pressure isn't too far off the minimum spec so if I can do something small to get the pressure up, that should keep it going for a while longer before the cause gets worse... I assume...
Have read https://www.theminif...huttle-vs-ball/
#13
Posted 17 January 2025 - 12:40 PM
What oil are you running and what is the pressure like when fully warm and it's revved to 5000 rpm?
#14
Posted 17 January 2025 - 12:56 PM
What oil are you running and what is the pressure like when fully warm and it's revved to 5000 rpm?
I'm in Cape Town, South Africa and it's summer here so upper 20 degrees. The oil is Ravenol 20W50 and I've never revved it that high. Highest while driving has been 4000 rpm but will see
#15
Posted 17 January 2025 - 01:59 PM
Another thing to remember. The valve is only there to stop over pressure.
ps do your engine a favour and get the revs up to 5-5.5k. They will go way more on standard parts.
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