17 replies to this topic

[gaspen]

I found the chart here

 

Chart, Brake Hydraulic

[WanaGo]

 

 

 

 

It should be a good idea to bench-bleed the Master Cylinder before install it to the car. Somehow the air can trapped in the MC

 

You can find many videos on YT how to do it

 

Thanks. I would have thought using the spare tyre kit and forcing fluid through from the master, would have purged the master itself of all air. 
The only bench bleeding videos I can find on YT do not relate to the classic mini, but it just looks like you pump the fluid around and around from the outlet back into the reservoir. So not really going to gain much over what I have done already I dont think.

 

 

You can not push the piston all the way up in the car with the brake pedal

 

 

Ah, right. Maybe I can just pop the pin out then and push it up and down without the pedal, if I can acheive that. Rather than taking it out.

So using the Spare Type 20psi forcing method, wont get that air out like pushing the piston all the way up, you think?

 

 

Meanwhile I read that you have a sinlge circuit MC, I am not sure that it will need bench bleed

 

( In a dual-circuit MC there is two pistons "connected" by a spring only. So the second piston will move all the way up if you push it in a bench )

 

Did you replced any other components in the brakes ?

 

On the old MiniSpares website there was a chart about the brake components which I can not find now. Anybody knows where it is ?

 

From that chart you can find out which diamater wheel cylinders you can install for a given MC. 

 

 

Master is original Lockheed metal can, single circuit. Rebuilt with Minispares kit.
Fronts are twin leading shoe drums, just replaced like for like. New cylinders, springs, shoes, drums.
Rears are standard rear drums, replaced the same as the fronts, like for like.
All new Automec brake lines, Copper/Nickel, and new rubber lines.
Proportioning valve on the rear subframe is original, just took it apart and cleaned it and reassembled.
So its all just like it was, just new parts to replace worn/old parts.

[Mr Piggy]

Sometimes an airlock can be removed by opening a bleed nipple and stamping hard on the brake pedal then close the nipple before releasing the pedal. Do this several times on each wheel, starting withe the furthest from the master and going round several times. On the back this may cause the pressure limiting valve to close so release the pedal slowly until it clicks, then push down fully. It's a 2 person job. Also bear in mind the front brake adjusters will tighten either way but should be turned in the direction of wheel rotation. That is, left side clockwise right side anticlockwise.