15 replies to this topic

[mvahora]

So ive got the minispares SUSPENSION CONE COMPRESSOR WITH DUAL THREAD TOOL 660330

 

Mini is 1977 morris. Not sure if the cones are imperial or metric. Tried shining a torch in there to have a look as well as a nifty boroscope camera ive got but still hard to be certain. Seems quite rusty in there and hard to see any threads. 

 

I put in the imperial rod and it falls right through the hole and doesn't bind to anything. When trying metric it binds but seems quite hard to turn possibly due to all the rust and gunk in there.

 

How many full turns are required on the compression tool to ensure its gone enough into the nut? 

 

Also does the compression tool act as a tap? will it simultaneously cut new metric threads?

 

 

 

[Spider]

I'm not sure what others do here, but I have a long M14 Tap that I run through the cones first to clean up the threads, then I don't damage the tool and I can get a feel for how safe the thread is.

 

 

You would likely be better off removing the top arm, which has to come out anyway, without compressing the Cone. I think it fair to say by now, the cone will be flat enough to not need compressing.

 

[Cooperman]

If you are fitting new rubber springs, you may also be fitting Hi-Lo’s.
If you are fitting Hi-Lo’s and you are unsure about the threads in the old cones, you can drill a row of holes in the vertical aluminium trumpet and smash the trumpet with a chisel. Then remove the top arm and the spring cone will come out easily.
If you are staying with the original trumpets, pour some engine oil into the top of the cone before engaging the tower tool. It needs at least 7 full turns to ensure safe engagement.

[stuart bowes]

on a related note..

 

is it possible, if using hilo's, to fit new cones without a compressor tool, just by winding it right in, does that give enough clearance (same question for front and rear, especially as I don't seem to have any holes to put the tool through at the back)

 

cheers

Edited by stuart bowes, Yesterday, 01:02 PM.

[Rubbershorts]

on a related note..

 

is it possible, if using hilo's, to fit new cones without a compressor tool, just by winding it right in, does that give enough clearance (same question for front and rear, especially as I don't seem to have any holes to put the tool through at the back)

 

cheers

No compression of cones required on the back. The radius arms drop plenty to take even the old trumpets out. Also, if I remember correctly, you do still need to compress the cone on the front if Hilos are fitted. You can get everything out though, without removing the top arm, if the Hilo is wound right down. Daz.

[weef]

I think it is quite safe to say that the tool will not cut a new thread as supplied.

You can try modifying it by grinding "flutes" in the M14 thread to look like a threading tap, the slots give space for the debris created when screwing it in.

Using this as if it were a tap, slowly turn it in an out removing it now and then to clean any debris from the "flutes".

Use pleanty of cutting fluid and work it and out until you feel you are deep enough to get a good hold.

Hope this helps you.

[Cooperman]

Another tip: when doing the rears it’s necessary to drop the rad arms and to do this the damper tops must be undone.
To avoid taking the petrol tank out, just cut a 4” x 1.5” opening in the rear seat back panel and make up an aluminium or steel plate to seal the hole. If you need a photo of exactly where to cut the hole, PM me with your personal email and I’ll send you a photo.

[stuart bowes]

cheers yes I was planning to cut the access hole in the back seat as well, that's just good common sense IMO

Edited by stuart bowes, Yesterday, 02:49 PM.

[Rubbershorts]

Another tip: when doing the rears it’s necessary to drop the rad arms and to do this the damper tops must be undone.
To avoid taking the petrol tank out, just cut a 4” x 1.5” opening in the rear seat back panel and make up an aluminium or steel plate to seal the hole. If you need a photo of exactly where to cut the hole, PM me with your personal email and I’ll send you a photo.

That's a great idea. Any chance you can post the picture Cooperman? Daz.

[DeadSquare]

I'm not sure what others do here, but I have a long M14 Tap that I run through the cones first to clean up the threads, then I don't damage the tool and I can get a feel for how safe the thread is.

 

 

You would likely be better off removing the top arm, which has to come out anyway, without compressing the Cone. I think it fair to say by now, the cone will be flat enough to not need compressing.

 

If you don't have an M14 tap and a welder, something that will clean up a thread, but not cut one, can be made by buying three M14 nuts and a high tensile  M14 set-screw that is at least 1" longer than the depth from the bulkhead to the thread in the doughnut.

 

Thread the nuts, as if they are lock-nuts, onto the bolt, so that the last one is flush. 

 

Placing the point of the bit between the nut and the screw, drill three holes at about 120 degrees, the depth of the three nuts.

 

Remove the three nuts and you have something resembling a tap.

 

Don't be stingy with the diesel / light oil as you clean the threads in the doughnut.

 

If you are going to use the doughnut again, degrease it when you get it out.

[stuart bowes]

or you might be able to use some sort of wire brush attachment

 

like this maybe https://www.screwfix...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

or similar

[Spider]

on a related note..

 

is it possible, if using hilo's, to fit new cones without a compressor tool, just by winding it right in, does that give enough clearance (same question for front and rear, especially as I don't seem to have any holes to put the tool through at the back)

 

cheers

 

Some will let you do that and some won't. The particular ones I use, I need to compress the cone for.

[Cooperman]

PM me your personal email and I will send a pic.
Another tip: when doing the rears it’s necessary to drop the rad arms and to do this the damper tops must be undone.
To avoid taking the petrol tank out, just cut a 4” x 1.5” opening in the rear seat back panel and make up an aluminium or steel plate to seal the hole. If you need a photo of exactly where to cut the hole, PM me with your personal email and I’ll send you a photo.

That's a great idea. Any chance you can post the picture Cooperman? Daz.

[Cooperman]

PM me your personal email and I will send a pic.

[mvahora]

Ok so managed to get the top arms out

The trumpet is jammed and stuck to the cone and it wont come out in 1 piece. Any ideas to seperate cone from trumpet?

Tried lubing, hitting with hammer etc