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Winter Usage Or Store And Forget Until Spring?


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#1 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 06:16 PM

Although I've posted the title as a question, I've already made up my mind to keep using Marvin (our 1983 highly tuned Mini: UK Minis) during the winter months to ensure he keeps active and nothing seizes. 

 

However, I am being careful by applying the following conditions:

  1. Only drive Marvin on a dry day - with dry roads
  2. Only use Marvin on roads which typically go un-salted/gritted
  3. Jet wash the underside of the car and thoroughly clean inside the wheel arches, wash and leather Marvin and allow everything to dry before putting him in the garage.

Where we live, many of the country lanes linking the villages rarely get gritted and I can be in the countryside withing 300-metres of driving Marvin out of the garage and onto a national speed limit road withing 20-seconds.

 

I can cover between 5 -10-miles at a brisk driving pace, get the engine up to temperature and give Marvin a good run before a good washdown.

 

Anything else I should add to my routine?

 

Thank in advance.

 

Peter 

 



#2 Quinlan minor

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 06:32 PM

If salt/grit has been laid down, wait until there's been enough rain to wash it away.

 

Winter '22-23 was quite dry, but in the face of a little frost they kept gritting round here. The salt lay in drifts for several weeks, until we had enough rain to dissolve it and run it down the drain


Edited by Quinlan minor, 19 December 2024 - 10:02 PM.


#3 Penfold13

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 07:03 PM

Have you thought about protective products like the much advertised Lanoguard or equivalent? Its my first year trying it on a non-mini as I’ve had a few recommend it to me. Easy to apply, but not entirely convinced by it.



#4 weef

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 07:05 PM

Generally when I come back in from a run out I can get away with a good wash down with a running hose and a clean sponge. The coachwork has a good "skin" of polish and plenty of clean water takes off any road dirt. The underside, again I just hose it down to clean off any dirt, but it's never that bad. Once dried off I like to go round the more vunerable areas underneath using something like WD40 to spray the shiny bits and reach all the nooks and crannies where water may lie trapped.

I've done it this way for years and it seems to work for me, after all a can of WD is relatively cheap compared to having to tackle rusty repairs.



#5 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 09:57 PM

Have you thought about protective products like the much advertised Lanoguard or equivalent? Its my first year trying it on a non-mini as I’ve had a few recommend it to me. Easy to apply, but not entirely convinced by it.

 

I wasn't aware such stuff existed. 

 

Thanks for the heads up but I'm not sure they'll add value to my existing routine.



#6 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 09:58 PM

Generally when I come back in from a run out I can get away with a good wash down with a running hose and a clean sponge. The coachwork has a good "skin" of polish and plenty of clean water takes off any road dirt. The underside, again I just hose it down to clean off any dirt, but it's never that bad. Once dried off I like to go round the more vunerable areas underneath using something like WD40 to spray the shiny bits and reach all the nooks and crannies where water may lie trapped.

I've done it this way for years and it seems to work for me, after all a can of WD is relatively cheap compared to having to tackle rusty repairs.

 

Thanks.  It's sounds like our thinking is alike.

 

Never thought of using WD40 - but it's a good suggestion.



#7 Mito

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Posted 19 December 2024 - 10:27 PM

I drive mine on dry days over winter.

 

Cavities all have Bilt Hamber cavity wax in them and use ACF50 on exposed metal work to protect it.

 

The ACF50 leaves a protective film on the metal work which should prevent corrosion. You do have to re-apply every couple of washes though


Edited by Mito, 19 December 2024 - 10:28 PM.


#8 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted Yesterday, 06:06 AM

I drive mine on dry days over winter.

Cavities all have Bilt Hamber cavity wax in them and use ACF50 on exposed metal work to protect it.

The ACF50 leaves a protective film on the metal work which should prevent corrosion. You do have to re-apply every couple of washes though


Thank you.

Marvin is like a new car underneath so I'm keen to keep him that way but leaving him stuck in the garage motionless will do more harm than using him occasionally through the winter.

And I get to have fun too.

#9 coopertaz

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Posted Yesterday, 12:17 PM

seems like you have a good routine may be an idea to get a leaf blower to blow out innacessible areas if going to extremes, just be sure to avoid the road salt, if you can better than leaving all winter. round here they love spraying grit everywhere so not an option



#10 stuart bowes

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Posted Yesterday, 12:37 PM

speaking of front wheel arches you might want to have a good look at the closing panels right up in the top corners and make sure they're all well sealed around the seams, a bit of carefully applied clear bathroom sealant or something if necessary, water and crud flicks up there constantly off the wheels and it's an easy place for rust to start forming

 

may well be fine if recently refurbed but worth a look 



#11 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted Yesterday, 12:44 PM

seems like you have a good routine may be an idea to get a leaf blower to blow out innacessible areas if going to extremes, just be sure to avoid the road salt, if you can better than leaving all winter. round here they love spraying grit everywhere so not an option


I did think of this but after a wash Marvin sits in front of the garage southern facing so he basques in the sun.

Worth another thought though.

Thanks.

#12 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted Yesterday, 12:45 PM

speaking of front wheel arches you might want to have a good look at the closing panels right up in the top corners and make sure they're all well sealed around the seams, a bit of carefully applied clear bathroom sealant or something if necessary, water and crud flicks up there constantly off the wheels and it's an easy place for rust to start forming

may well be fine if recently refurbed but worth a look


Great advice but he's like new underneath.

Thank you.

#13 stuart bowes

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Posted Yesterday, 12:59 PM

hopefully better than new lol they didn't pay a lot of attention to these things out of the factory



#14 bpirie1000

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Posted Yesterday, 01:30 PM

You'd onto realise how much salt there ison the roads until you ridea motorbike. Rear swinging arm is caked in salt. But yet not a thing to be seen on the roads. Only feel it on corners then when parked up for a wash wowza...


Thanks to the council for that.......

#15 Peter_NottinghamS

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Posted Yesterday, 01:39 PM

You'd onto realise how much salt there ison the roads until you ridea motorbike. Rear swinging arm is caked in salt. But yet not a thing to be seen on the roads. Only feel it on corners then when parked up for a wash wowza...


Thanks to the council for that.......


I'm on the border of Nottinghamshire/Leicestershire and the zig zag of B and C roads rarely see a Nottinghamshire or Leicestershire gritter so many or these roads are salt free.

I'm hoping with my cleaning regime and some of the great advice that's been shared here I can continue to enjoy Marvin through the winter months and avoid as much corrosion damage as possible.

I sensed the 'park up and forget until Spring' was more detrimental than driving him.

Thanks for your post.




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