27 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

45D would have been a points distributor. If you're running points, you need about 3ohms total resistance or they're liable to melt.

 

If you've got an electronic conversion it depends on the specs of that - most will designed to operate with the same 3ohms so they can just replace the points.

 

The GCL143 was produced specifically for the factory electronic ignition.

 

 

Some ballast ignition cars have an unballasted (white) wire tucked up in the loom near the distributor. You should be able to feel the spade connector if it's there.

[Lplus]

45D would have been a points distributor. If you're running points, you need about 3ohms total resistance or they're liable to melt.

 

If you've got an electronic conversion it depends on the specs of that - most will designed to operate with the same 3ohms so they can just replace the points.

 

The GCL143 was produced specifically for the factory electronic ignition.

Minispares state that the GCL143 should be used with the C-27H7698.   Now, they could be wrong, but abdalim is at least following the instructions from the supplier.

[Ethel]

 I expect Minispares are right. That appears to be an electronic distributor for pre A+ engines, that only ever left the factory with points & different clamp arrangement.

[Matpaul]

Unfortunately I recently had a very similar problem with the same new parts, same supplier, thinking I was upgrading from my low power coil and distributor. Lots of difficulty starting , would idle on 3 cylinders, checked many things including voltage to unit etc. ended up refitting my original 3 ohm low power coil and it started and ran ok but by that time I had lost faith in it and I was also a bit suspect on the published figures for the advance curve., so refitted my original dissy. Emailed the supplier but they weren’t that interested. I hope this helps. Good luck.

[Matpaul]

I meant to add that mine didn’t run properly from when I installed it.

[Abdalim]

I just installed a 0.9 coil (GCL143) with a minispares 45D (C-27H7698). Its running smoothly at first but suddenly the engine stop and cannot start. Is there I’m missing something on setting this set up. By the way I used mild camshaft and ngk bp5es plugs.[/quote]
How have you wired it up?

There could be many faults, really you need to get out a multimeter and check everything. It could be totally unrelated to the distributor.[/quote]

I already bypass the feeding wire from the fuse to the coil, when switch on the key, the current is there on the coil when tested with multimeter

Edited by Abdalim, 27 March 2025 - 04:14 AM.

[Abdalim]

You’ve got to make sure in that case both the distributor and coil are fed a full 12V from a wire that’s rated for the current

[Abdalim]

I already bypass the feeding wire from the fuse to the coil, when switch is on, by using the multimeter there is a current flow on the coil.

Edited by Abdalim, 27 March 2025 - 04:29 AM.

[Abdalim]

Now the car is running, but everytime I want to use its really hard to start, and sometimes even worse not even start.

Edited by Abdalim, 27 March 2025 - 04:46 AM.

[68+86auto]

Now the car is running, but everytime I want to use its really hard to start, and sometimes even worse not even start.

 

You need to get out a meter and do some testing. Check what the voltage is at the starter and coil when cranking. Should be well above 9.6v.

[timmy850]

What did you set the idle timing at ?

[Lplus]

Now the car is running, but everytime I want to use its really hard to start, and sometimes even worse not even start.

If you still have the old parts, I'd try the old higher resistance coil to see if it makes any difference.

[Abdalim]

Now I put the old parts back and the car running smoothly. Thanks for all the info and advise