16 replies to this topic

[ssyson]

Hi All hope you can help me yet again. I am trying to sort out the headlights. It has been suggested that i check the wires with a volt meter at the end near the lights. The blue and white wire has a voltage just under the battery voltage but the red and blue wire has zero. I think it maybe the rocker switch as the garage put on a new one. Can anyone tell me which wires are supposed to go where. I have checked the wiring diagram which seems to indicate one red wire on the left then on the other side brown at the top and blue at the bottom. In this configuration when the switch is off I get voltage 11 volts between the red and the brown, zero between the red and the blue. On dip beam I get red-brown 11 red-blue 0 on main beam red-brown 0 red-blue 0. I have tried various combinations but cant seem to get it right.

 

Also there is no combination that seems to give me power on the blue/red wire at the headlight. I am really struggling with this so any help would be really appreciated.

Sue

[Spider]

Blue / Red is dipped beam, Blue / White is full or high beam.

You'll need to toggle the headlight dipper switch to test for voltage at the headlight sockets.

[ssyson]

No voltage at the dip beam on either headlight. main beam is OK. I was concerned that the wires on the rocker switch may not be in the correct place?

[Spider]

It won't be the rocker switch.

Check the connections on the combination (indicator) switch (that also has the beam switch in it) are good. You maybe up for a new combination switch.

[ssyson]

Just had a new one fitted as my wonderful French garage before I got it back still not working. Seems it is something else a bit more hidden.

[stuart bowes]

there is a junction point along those wires that I would check, basically it's one wire from the switch, then it splits into two, one for each side

if you can locate that point and check it you might find something's come loose and needs re-terminating

Also measure voltage at that junction point with the switch in the correct position, if nothing then trace further back

Edited by stuart bowes, 20 November 2024 - 01:45 PM.

[ssyson]

Thank you will have a look in the morning. It is getting too dark now.

Sue

[Designer]

Hi Sue,

 

The junction point that Stuart is referring to should be under the slam panel.

In the photo below the bit of the loom for the lights( horizontal blue arrow) is hanging down it should be tucked up (as the blue vertical arrow shows) under the slam panel at the top of the front panel.

The bunch of connectors ringed in yellow are the main connectors, which will be up near the slam panel. The red circles mark roughly where the other connections are again up and under the slam panel.

When I disconnected all mine they were in fairly poor condition. I cleaned them with a fine wet and dry paper and when reconnecting them I applied a good amount of electrical gel. I am sure somebody can give you its proper name as I cannot remember what it is called.

Before I disconnected any of the joints I labelled them so that everything went back the way it should be.

If you click on the picture it will enlarge it so you will see the main connectors better.

I hope this helps.

 

Paddy

 

 

Edited by Designer, 20 November 2024 - 09:40 PM.

[ssyson]

Hi 

That is very informative. I dont have any wires near the slam panel mine are just all dangling along the bottom of the grill. I dont have any connectors like yours either. The wires just all seem to come from the left as you are looking at the car then go more or less straight to the left hand head light then along to the right. No harness just lots of wires. Will have a look tomorrow in the daylight and maybe take some pics. There seems to be voltage on the blue and white wire but nothing on the red and blue or could be red and purple.

Thanks for your help all of you. Will keep trying and maybe eventually work it out. 

Sue

[mini-mad-mark]

Test following in order:

 

1) Test for 12v at dash switch (Brown) live feed cable - but you seem to indicate you have that already (Note this is an unfused and permanent live so do not allow connection/contact directly to Earth as this can cause a fire)

 

2) Test switch is correctly connected and working by checking for 12v at Red cable with switch in Pos1 and 12v at Red AND Blue cable with switch in Pos2 (NB you will still have 12v at the live feed brown or should have)

 

Note: Red cable feeds sidelights, tail lights and panel lights (through a line fuse on earlier cars (yours?) and Fuse4 on later cars and something else on injection cars....)

          Blue cable feeds 12v from dash switch to column dip switch (not fused on earlier cars but probably on injection cars - same warning applies about letting it go to Earth directly whilst testing)

 

3) Test column switch is receiving 12v FROM the dash switch headlamp feed (Blue cable) either test for presence of 12v or you could use your meter to check continuity of the cable 

 

4) Test column switch is distributing 12v TO dip (Blue/Red) or main (Blue/White) headlamp feeds - best place to check is the junction plug just under the dash rail - again can be a continuity test

 

Note: Headlamp main beam flash function uses a separate live feed (Purple) for the horn and the flash but still sends 12v to the Blue/White main beam cable (in case you wanted to test that whilst you were "in there") 

 

5) Then test headlamp feed cables -  as mentioned by others depends which position your column dip switch is in as to which cable will have 12v (Blue/Red for dip or Blue/White for main)

 

You should find at which point you have the problem

 

 

Note: Test between each cable and EARTH, not between two different cables as per your first post. 

 

Just a question, you are referring to a wiring diagram during your diagnostics?

[ssyson]

Hi

Thank you for this valuable infomation. I do have a wiring diagram but it is somewhat difficult to follow. For example on the rocker switch in the car the brown wire was on its own on one side of the switch with the blue and the red on the other side. In the diagram ir looks as though the red should be on its own and the brown and the blue on the other side. Do you know which is right?

I will followw your instructions exactly this afternoon and maybe I can get it working. Will let you know.

Sue

[ssyson]

Followed your instructions precisely and found a break at a junction in the red and blue wire. Fixed that and all seemed perfect so connected the light cluster then suddenly nothing but the battery was very flay and the charger had stopped working. Fixed the charger 2 soldered joints had become disconnected and have now put battery back on charge so I am hoping things will be good tomorrow. Will keep you informed.

Sue

[ssyson]

Just an update

The lights though not attached apear to have the correct readings at all the connections. Now however there appears to be something draining the battery. I have charged it but as soon as I try to switch on the ignition the voltage disappears and I dont even get an ignition light. I have taken a photo and maybe you can see something wrong. A bit in dispair the more I try the worse it seems to get. Any help would be very welcome.

Can anyone tell me how to upload my photo.

Sue

[Steam]

Check that the battery terminals are tight and not corroded, then check the earths all around the car. If there is loose or corroded earths it will cause all sorts of strange faults.

[ssyson]

Thank you will do. I think maybe my battery is so flat it wont charge. Have had another look today and still nothing.Time to invest in a new battery charger I think as the voltage at the battery is 8 volts after charging overnight and still no ignition light.