6 replies to this topic

[TeddytheSpoon]

So one of the upcoming items on my joblist is to replace the front to rear brake line, as it's fairly corroded. System in question is single line with servo.

From reading around it seems it's possible to do this job without removing the rear subframe, which I'd like to avoid for the sake of minimum fuss. But I haven't seen much info on accessing the front joint. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for the easiest way to go about it at this end?

And on a more general note: is it the kind of thing where if you replace one line, you might as well replace the whole lot at once? Most of the other lines seem perfectly OK, it's just the most vulnerable one under the car that really needs doing. (For now...)

[bpirie1000]

Just be systematic about it.

Personally I would spray penetrative oil on all joints first.. including bleed nipples..well before your doing the job.

I would also say the rear subframe is the worst bit. Get the car as high as you can. Do it from the back head to the front. Make,sure there are p.clips available if the floor mounting points look iffy in anyway.

Also depends on which pipes you intend to use. Some are flexible some are not..

Just go slow and make sure you are happy with all joints.

[TeddytheSpoon]

Thanks. Yes, I've been spraying release compound on them every time I do something else as I've heard that's a common gripe!

I'll probably go with a Kunifer pipe to get a balance between formability and durability. Not all of the ones I've seen online advertise whether they're copper-nickel or pure copper, though.

[gazza82]

I think I've read it's not legal in some countries to sell plain copper for brake pipes as they are soft and more susceptible to twisting and tearing.

If they don't state Kunifer or Cupro-Nickel, avoid.

[mbolt998]

You can put joints into the new pipe wherever it's useful for you to have them. I did mine the same as the one that was on the car: it had a joint somewhere around under the driver's feet. As for whether to replace all the pipes I would at least have a very good look at them. I did replace them all on my car (but the ones I took off were mostly OK to be fair). You probably also want to replace any flexible rubber hoses if they are old just in case.

[alpder]

On one of my estates I just ran my new cupro-nickel front/back pipe (replacing copper fitted by the previous owner) under the rear subframe. Wound the excess around into a large-ish spiral by wrapping around a 2" tube. Next time the subframe comes out (never, p-l-e-a-s-e) I can unwind the pipe and fit it where it's supposed to be.

 

I've also found that I can drop the front of the rear subframe, leaving its rear bolted in place. Recently did this on a different estate to run a new fuel pipe. Had to remove the fuel tank to allow the subframe to swing down. Dunno if the rear valence might prevent you doing that on a saloon though.

[TeddytheSpoon]

Gazza - good point on the rules, will check. Although I'm not sure I'd want plain copper anyway for exactly the reason you state.

Alpder, I have considered that and it is an option if I run out of patience! Would rather do it 'properly' if possible this time around though. My sub isn't in bad nick, but I can see it needing to come out for some reconditioning in a couple or so years. Interesting about dropping the front only though.