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Full Rebuild Methodology

engine electrical

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#1 PeteD

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 11:59 AM

15 years ago I ripped apart my 1992 1275 mini sprite, it’s a carb engine and I’m sorry to say in pretty bad shape!

Hopefully early next year I will be having the sills and doorstep replaced that should leave me with a solid shell to work from.

My question is, what’s my best plan of attack for rebuilding?

It’s a rolling shell, the engine although has not been in the car, turns over freely but the car has no wiring, breaks pipes etc etc.

I’m inclined to start with installing a whole new wiring harness to begin with, but also recognise that this really has little impact on getting the engine running, same could be said with the breaking system.

Just looking for advice from others that have been through this, any lessons learned or things you’d do differently.

Thanks in advance

#2 stuart bowes

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 12:28 PM

My plan basically involves thinking it through and doing all the things that require easy access first then building up from there

So, shell first obviously and painting the underside and engine bay, painting enough of the inside that you can put in the pedal box, or all of the inside if that makes more sense at the time.

Then get the rack and subframes on, make it a rolling shell, get the brakes all fitted which also means suspension etc obviously. Just fit the ends of the drive shafts for now so the wheels can be bolted on

Once the inside is all painted i'll put the wiring in, fit all the lights and a battery or power supply to test them. You can loosely fit the switches or just use crocodile clip leads to test everything

Then I'll fit the tank and get the engine running, then when that's good and I know there's no more work to be done I'll do the bodywork and paint it

Personally I think just minimal interior stuff until the outer paint is done, probably fit the carpet and seats etc last but either way..

might be subject to some changes as I go along depending how it pans out but that's the general idea anyway

Interested to see what others come up with though and will bear those things in mind for mine

Edited by stuart bowes, 16 November 2024 - 12:42 PM.


#3 Lplus

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 12:57 PM

15 years ago I ripped apart my 1992 1275 mini sprite, it’s a carb engine and I’m sorry to say in pretty bad shape!

Hopefully early next year I will be having the sills and doorstep replaced that should leave me with a solid shell to work from.

My question is, what’s my best plan of attack for rebuilding?

It’s a rolling shell, the engine although has not been in the car, turns over freely but the car has no wiring, breaks pipes etc etc.

I’m inclined to start with installing a whole new wiring harness to begin with, but also recognise that this really has little impact on getting the engine running, same could be said with the breaking system.

Just looking for advice from others that have been through this, any lessons learned or things you’d do differently.

Thanks in advance

One point would be to fit the brake pipes and fuel line from front to back before anything else once the shell is solid.  Even then it may involve removing or at least partially dropping the subframes.



#4 ADRay

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 02:25 PM

don’t do what I did… remember to install the fuel line pipe that runs behind the steering rack.

#5 stuart bowes

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 02:44 PM

Oh yeah good shout that is literally the next thing I'm doing as well why didn't I mention that

#6 cal844

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Posted 16 November 2024 - 05:32 PM

I fit pipes and battery cable to floor.
steering rack, then subframes.

Pedal box ideally should go in before any of the interior, remember to fit the carpet before fitting the heater.


I generally get the whole car built then once it's built I run the engine, treat any long term lay up like a fresh engine.

Edited by cal844, 16 November 2024 - 05:33 PM.


#7 Spider

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 04:45 AM

It does depend a bit on what tools you have in part (eg a hoist or ramp).

 

Starting from a bare shell, I tend to fit them up (from memory !),

 

Pedal Box

Master Cylinders

Wiring Loom,

Dash, with speedo cable fitted,

Test electricals (as best as can be done),

Interior trim (leaving out the seats and steering column),

Glass,

Front to rear pipe work,

Battery cable,

Steering rack,

Front subframe,

Rear subframe,

Complete brake piping,

Bleed brakes,

Fit steering column

Fit seats,

Fit engine



#8 stuart bowes

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 09:03 AM

Also at some point probably before or during fitting underside parts, taking time to fit all the necessary blanking plugs or grommets

Such as the LHD steering column hole, battery tray holes, heel board, etc

I've also been giving thought to applying lanoguard or similar to the underside before subframe fitting, particularly the boot floor and rear valance where access is awkward later

Edited by stuart bowes, 17 November 2024 - 09:09 AM.


#9 eric67

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 09:47 AM

I would work towards proving that the engine and gearbox work as a priority before fitting trim and glass etc. but sometimes a build like this is as much about motivation and fitting something new and shiny can help keep you going even if it’s not the most logical order.



#10 sledgehammer

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 09:54 AM

One thing to add - before fitting engine - fit speedo cable to gearbox & fuel pipe in position to pump (if manual)

 

scratched hands otherwise .

also I always grease up brake pipes where they are hidden in mud traps (behind subframes , ect )



#11 Spider

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 05:42 PM

I would work towards proving that the engine and gearbox work as a priority before fitting trim and glass etc. but sometimes a build like this is as much about motivation and fitting something new and shiny can help keep you going even if it’s not the most logical order.

 

I prefer leaving the engine until last if it's been reconditioned for many reasons, the primary one being that fresh machined surfaces don't store too well. Also, for the people having their engines reconditioned by a firm, they have a warranty that has a time limit, which is ticking away from the day they take delivery of their fresh engine. It's all to often that I hear of warranties being expired before the car can even be driven.

I'm also a firm believer that with fresh bores and rings, they need some load on them right away, within the first 20 revolutions of their new life in order to be sure they will bed in and not start glazing.



#12 PeteD

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Posted 17 November 2024 - 07:52 PM

All really good points thank you, I look forward to getting my hands oily and cut to shreds like back in my youth, although I'm also sure I'll remember its was not as glamours as I remember!

 

Thanks again, and feel free to add more points, always happy to learn and hopefully I'll be posting much more in the new year!!







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