42 replies to this topic

[Rubbershorts]

Hi everyone. Here we go again.

In a recent post I had a question regarding timing scatter which led to the suggestion of removing the dizzy for inspection of the shaft. I also removed the spindle that goes down into the box to inspect that also.

I'm sure you can all guess, I reassembled now car won't start.

It really struggled to turn over as if the battery was low, but the battery was fine. Pulled all the leads to inspect and replaced making sure all were in the correct sequence. No joy, and now every now and then it wouldn't even try. Just a click from one of the yellow relays on the bulkhead.
I had a thing whilst sulking over my dinner, then remembered something I'd read about something being 180⁰ out.
Took the dizzy and shaft out, set my timing marks at tdc, then put the shaft back in, and the dizzy, so the rotary arm was at 2 O'clock-ish and gave it a go. It was turning over very strongly this time but wouldn't start. Pulled the middle lead off the dizzy to check it was on correctly and tried again. Nothing! Just the click of the same relay.

What the heck have I done now?

Ps. I put the smallest touch of oil on the shaft that the rotor arm attaches to, where it enters the body of the distributor. Touched it on then wiped it off as it looked like it needed it

Thanks guys. Daz.

[DeadSquare]

Can you borrow a workshop manual ?  To check that you have engaged the shaft with the camshaft correctly.

[Rubbershorts]

Can you borrow a workshop manual ? To check that you have engaged the shaft with the camshaft correctly.

Hi Dead square, do you mean the Haynes manual? If yes, I have one. I used a bolt to remove and replace the shaft, and turned it anti clockwise until it located. If it wasn't in correctly would the dizzy still click into the correct location as it has?

Edited by Rubbershorts, 14 November 2024 - 08:16 PM.

[DeadSquare]

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 

 

It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.

 

It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

[DeadSquare]

 

Can you borrow a workshop manual ? To check that you have engaged the shaft with the camshaft correctly.

Hi Dead square, do you mean the Haynes manual? If yes, I have one.             I used a bolt to remove and replace the shaft,             and turned it anti clockwise until it located. If it wasn't in correctly would the dizzy still click into the correct location as it has?

 

If you have to remove the shaft again, tie a bit of string to the bolt.  If you should drop the shaft into the gearbox, there is a chance of pulling it back out.
 

[Rubbershorts]

Can you borrow a workshop manual ? To check that you have engaged the shaft with the camshaft correctly.

Hi Dead square, do you mean the Haynes manual? If yes, I have one.             I used a bolt to remove and replace the shaft,             and turned it anti clockwise until it located. If it wasn't in correctly would the dizzy still click into the correct location as it has?

If you have to remove the shaft again, tie a bit of string to the bolt.  If you should drop the shaft into the gearbox, there is a chance of pulling it back out.

Yikes, sounds bad.

[DeadSquare]

 

 

 

Can you borrow a workshop manual ? To check that you have engaged the shaft with the camshaft correctly.

Hi Dead square, do you mean the Haynes manual? If yes, I have one.             I used a bolt to remove and replace the shaft,             and turned it anti clockwise until it located. If it wasn't in correctly would the dizzy still click into the correct location as it has?

If you have to remove the shaft again, tie a bit of string to the bolt.  If you should drop the shaft into the gearbox, there is a chance of pulling it back out.

Yikes, sounds bad.

 

It wasn't too bad if it happened to a Morris Minor;  you could unbolt the sump.

[Rubbershorts]

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

[DeadSquare]

 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

 

 

 

 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

 

From my understanding of your description I'm assuming that the starter relay is clicking and the started not turning.

[Rubbershorts]

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

 
 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

From my understanding of your description I'm assuming that the starter relay is clicking and the started not turning.

Correct. No other sound apart from the relay. Then a while later it will turn over. Is this the battery recovering?

[DeadSquare]

 

 

 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

 
 

 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

From my understanding of your description I'm assuming that the starter relay is clicking and the started not turning.

Correct. No other sound apart from the relay. Then a while later it will turn over. Is this the battery recovering?

 

Do you have another vehicle and jump leads ?   Disconnect one of the Mini leads from the Mini battery to stop power being sapped by the Mini battery.

[Rubbershorts]

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

 
 

Yes, I'm sure a Haynes will explain it. 
 
It is fairly easy to get the shaft 1/8 out, so that the dizzy looks as though it is roughly where it used to be.
 
It might be worth (when you have recharged the battery) loosening the dizzy and twisting in about 15 degrees stages, first one way and then the other as far as the plug leads allow

Is that relay clicking an indication that the battery is low?

From my understanding of your description I'm assuming that the starter relay is clicking and the started not turning.

Correct. No other sound apart from the relay. Then a while later it will turn over. Is this the battery recovering?

Do you have another vehicle and jump leads ?   Disconnect one of the Mini leads from the Mini battery to stop power being sapped by the Mini battery.

Okay, I can do that easily enough. Is my description of where I ended up all correct? I mean, does lining up my timing marks put no.1 at TDC? Or do I need to take rocker cover off and do it that way?

[DeadSquare]

As a lot of the engines that come my way have had the flywheel lightened, and so lost the timing marks, I always whip off the rocker cover.

 

I think the best thing I can say to you, is to read the manual 3 or 4 times to get your head round things, and then do as it tells you.

[sonscar]

If the timing is severely advanced this could happen.The gear slot is not symmetrical and can be fitted upside down.Steve..

[Ethel]

The slot's not symmetrical on purpose, so you can tell it's correctly synchronised with the cam 'n firing order.

 

A useful tip, if you're going to remove the dizzy, is to first line up the timing marks so it's on the point of firing on No1 cylinder. You'll be able to confirm it's gone back the same by looking at the rotor arm & ignition trigger alignment (with a test bulb in the dizzy feed wire if it has points). You can still do the same anyway, but you'd have to look at the valve rockers to figure out if 1 or 4 cylinder should be firing & it won't guarantee the drive slot offset is right.