20 replies to this topic

[David12]

Hi, my first topic here. I ran into an issue with my 1995 SPI. I used too low torque on the bolts that connect the flywheel/crankshaft boss to the clutch pressure plate. The bolts loosened themselves in the flywheel assembly and needed replacement.

After installing the new clutch, pressure plate, crankshaft boss and replacing the plunger in the flywheel cover and installing the new verto slave cylinder I am running into an issue. I have bled the clutch hydraulic system as it is described in the haynes.

By depressing the clutch pedal, the clutch does not disengage. The pedal travel looks okay (how far should it go to the bulkhead? I presume the end position is before it touches the bulkhead), and the slave cylinder is moving the arm on the flywheel cover. The throwout stop nut has been adjusted to 6.5mm clearance and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the throw out stop is not touching the flywheel cover. I took the flywheel cover off again, and noticed the springs on the pressure plate in installed condition look flat compared to the old pressure plate (which is out of the car in ‘free-state’). Is that normal?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
David

[postve]

Following as exact same issue and have done the same diagnostic work minus the springs issue - any picture of this "flat spring"?

[stoneface]

Hi, When you replaced the plunger in the flywheel cover, where did you get it and which one did you get?

Only reason I ask is because I found there are a few variations between genuine and non-genuine ones.

Maybe nothing to do with it but might be worth a look here https://www.theminif...ust-sleeve-fit/

 

[David12]

Hi thanks both for the reply.

Capturing the ‘flat’ spring is very difficult on a picture. I disassembled everything again, this time including the clutch master cilinder.

On the workbench I checked the pressure plate and it’s springs when tightened to the flywheel to the old pressure plate I had, and the same movement in the springs was visible. This means I am quite sure that the pressure plate and it’s springs are OK.

Regarding the plunger, I got the one from minisport (DAM5353) and compared it to my old one. There is no difference visible between the two parts.

I am left with thinking to replace the two components in the clutch system that I have not replaced yet, the clutch arm from the slave to the plunger (I will probably get the heavy duty one from minisport) and the clutch master cilinder

Any suggestions where to look would be more than welcome!

[David12]

@stoneface, as an addition after I more thoroughly checked the thread that you linked, I will take a closer look at the plunger and measure my old and new one like you did, just to make sure the values are somewhat matching.
Thanks again for the reply!

[postve]

Thx David and honestly I have done everything I could think of on mine and clutch still will not disengage as curious what your next steps and as follows for me:

- new slave
- new master
- lightened flywheel clutch/diaphragm (orange) from MED - 200k max on it as had installed before I disassembled engine
- set gap for plunger arm (new arm as well)
- set stop nuts - extended out for now just until I figure out clutch disengagement
- bleed the hell out of it multiple times - now clutch pedal has correct resistance but no disengagement of clutch
- no leaks either external of internal under pedal
- new pins, etc
- rod change connection is fine - can get into gear no problem while car is turned off
- rod change quick release in installed (just an fyi)
-

My journey so far

Edited by postve, 06 November 2024 - 10:09 PM.

[stoneface]

@stoneface, as an addition after I more thoroughly checked the thread that you linked, I will take a closer look at the plunger and measure my old and new one like you did, just to make sure the values are somewhat matching.
Thanks again for the reply!

It might be perfectly fine.

What I would say is, at the price they show on Minisport it might not be a genuine one. I initially got the DAM5353MS from Minispares only because they didn't have the genuine one in stock. Thats now in the bin.

 

[David12]

Thx David and honestly I have done everything I could think of on mine and clutch still will not disengage as curious what your next steps and as follows for me:

- new slave
- new master
- lightened flywheel clutch/diaphragm (orange) from MED - 200k max on it as had installed before I disassembled engine
- set gap for plunger arm (new arm as well)
- set stop nuts - extended out for now just until I figure out clutch disengagement
- bleed the hell out of it multiple times - now clutch pedal has correct resistance but no disengagement of clutch
- no leaks either external of internal under pedal
- new pins, etc
- rod change connection is fine - can get into gear no problem while car is turned off
- rod change quick release in installed (just an fyi)
-

My journey so far

 

Thanks for your answer. One question I have to compare my situation to yours, what is your clutch pedal travel like? Before I disassembled my master cylinder, the pedal went down but not until the bulkhead, I then compared it to my daily car and started thinking, maybe the clutch pedal should go to the bulkhead on the mini, because it also feels like that in my daily car. I cannot remember what it was like when it was working, unfortunately that is already some time ago. 

My next step for this weekend is thoroughly compare the old and new plunger in my clutch housing, as @stoneface has done. If that is not matching, I will also add another plunger and probably another arm to my parts order before I place it, just to make sure that those parts are working as they should. 

When disassembling the clutch pedal from the master cylinder, I also found that the hole in the pedal has worn and is now oval. I am thinking of a way to eliminate the play here. The first option was to take the pedal out, weld the hole shut and drill a new hole in correct dimension. But after some research I think taking the pedals out of a LHD later mini requires you to take apart almost the whole car... 

Will update here after the weekend when I find something.

[postve]

Regarding the pedal from my experience and three mini’s later it never hits the floor. So from my experience you should have significant resistance when attempting to push pedal all the way to the floor - again the type of clutch (in my case an MED lightened flywheel/clutch/orange diaphragm) it is next to impossible to push pedal all the way to the floor - I am sure it varies per clutch set up but will defer to the experts.

Where I am now is have pushed out all the air and again still not engaging. Going out this morning to quickly remove the clutch - as the issue I believe is not hydraulic anymore and changing focus to the clutch.

One thing I am keen to look at, as I did disassemble the clutch, maybe applicable to you, is whether I put the backing plate the right way - it’s the only thing that I can think of right now - will advise and here’s a few old pics - one of which shows the correct position of the backing plate

 

I am becoming a master at removing the clutch whilst in car - 30 minutes - lol


https://ibb.co/jTzhc9f
https://ibb.co/YcndDBV
https://ibb.co/8YFP3sM
https://ibb.co/yXyPGYK
https://ibb.co/x3cwXLb
https://ibb.co/MpkTNBm

Edited by postve, 08 November 2024 - 12:03 PM.

[GraemeC]

Postve - your primary gear looks very tight to the slots for the c washer - do you have sufficent end float on the primary gear once the c washer was fitted (I notice its not shown in any of your photos)?

[postve]

Humm I was advised c-washer could be binding and pulling clutch within the next hour or so will advise- good catch and let me send pics again in a few - Graeme, how do I set the end float again, maybe a video would help? I was concerned the washer might be way too tight and did not set the float as simply put it back on as nothing changed although, I did have the engine bores out to 1310 - gulp!!

[imack]

That crank taper looks pretty damaged and it looks like the flywheel is going a long way up the taper, maybe pinching the C washer and primary gear as already mentioned.

[postve]

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[postve]

https://ibb.co/PcdMvzR

[postve]

Hey guys, I think I found the issue and sending again as original reply is not showing up

Clutch arm is “toast” and take a look inside the old plunger, gouged out at least 1/8 inch and no wonder it would not disengage clutch - will replace all and hoping this is the issue - will update in a few days

https://ibb.co/qYfc239
https://ibb.co/CmnmHzQ
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