20 replies to this topic

[s2ulk]

Hi all,

My drivers sill is not looking pretty and I don’t think it will get through the upcoming MOT. Would be grateful for some indication on cost to replace based on anybody who has had a garage do this in the last couple years (I can find some chat about costs in 2019 but the cost of everything has risen before then).

I have one quote so far of just over £900 plus VAT not including paint for the door step. Would be great to get an idea of whether that’s in the right ballpark. Thank you

[s2ulk]

Sorry one more question related to this - is replacement of the door step the same as replacement of the inner sill?

[sonikk4]

The door step and inner sill are two different items although they are welded together.

Now if both the outer sill and door step need replacing the odds are the inner sill will need some work and could account for the cost. Also the panels themselves can vary in price. If Heritage then that is a chunk of change, Magnum or M Machine own pressed items ( outer sill) then a lot cheaper.

So is it expensive, not for a garage I would say inc paint. Just make sure it’s not an oversill they want to fit.

[mab01uk]

Also have a read of this thread linked below if you are not sure what 'Oversills' are....

 

Oversills, What They Are And Why You Want To Avoid Them:-

https://www.theminif...-to-avoid-them/

Edited by mab01uk, 04 October 2024 - 10:15 PM.

[s2ulk]

Thanks for comments. Oversills definitely not being fitted - there are oversills on there already and that’s what is coming off!

[stuart bowes]

Until you take them off you can't really make a judgement on the amount of work required, just have to see what's underneath there. Could just be crispy and brown in one place, could be all the way along

[sonikk4]

Thanks for comments. Oversills definitely not being fitted - there are oversills on there already and that’s what is coming off!

 

Ahh that now makes sense. If you have read some of the info on here with regards to oversills and the damage they can create the pricing becomes more sensible.

 

Having dealt with good and bad oversills if you are really lucky and had the minor damage that i had on my clubby you may get lucky. However if like on my lads car then you need to prepare for the worst case scenario.

 

Where the sill is welded to the floor it acts as a water trap and this is where the rot starts. Yes you will hear of people saying they have no issues with oversills but to be brutally honest there will be something no matter what you do. I was lucky with Paddy as there was minor pitting which i treated and then painted. HOWEVER when i fully body restored the car i used M Machines Inner sills to first flute to remove this pitting.

[ADRay]

Thanks for comments. Oversills definitely not being fitted - there are oversills on there already and that’s what is coming off!

what I was thinking before I read it. at least it’s a sign that the one underneath is original.

does the repair quote include using Heritage panels?

[Cooperman]

If you have oversills there will almost certainly be problems with the inner sills and jacking points.
M-Machine sell an inner/outer sill sub-assembly which saves a huge amount of time time and looks excellent. It comes with several inches of new floor and that is cut to suit.
It is best to fit that before cutting off the door frame section as it allows the sill structure to hold the shell and avoids any distortion.

[s2ulk]

Thanks for comments. Oversills definitely not being fitted - there are oversills on there already and that’s what is coming off!

what I was thinking before I read it. at least it’s a sign that the one underneath is original.

does the repair quote include using Heritage panels?

It does indeed!

[s2ulk]

If you have oversills there will almost certainly be problems with the inner sills and jacking points.
M-Machine sell an inner/outer sill sub-assembly which saves a huge amount of time time and looks excellent. It comes with several inches of new floor and that is cut to suit.
It is best to fit that before cutting off the door frame section as it allows the sill structure to hold the shell and avoids any distortion.

They will be using heritage sills but to replace the jacking points is extra. On the basis that I will never use those jacking points to jack the car, is that a necessary replacement if the jacking points are rotten (I’m not suggesting the rotten jacking points remain, but could they be cut out with a plate welded over?)

[stuart bowes]

That's what I've done yeah. The bracket for it is just welded to the inner sill, you can cut off the old stuff and leave it off. Then weld a little square into the outer sill where the hole is

I'll just put a scissor jack in the boot and use the front/rear edges of the floor pan, or the subframe

Personal preference I guess, I don't think it affects structural rigidity in any way

Edited by stuart bowes, 13 October 2024 - 02:11 AM.

[sonikk4]

Without delving into design factors blah blah blah the one thing you will note is that the jacking point does tie into the outer and inner sill so does add strength not only for jacking a car but I should imagine it’s part of the design for the cars strength.

The actual bracket is cheap as chips, a bit of a faff to align with the outer sill but straight forward. Yes I deleted it on my lads car along with the outer and inner slinging brackets as well. On my car I seam welded the jacking bracket onto the subframe ( more strength) plus 1/4” plug welds to attach the sill to the bracket. I fully intend to keep using my jacking points purely for wheel removal when out and about. My lads car I did blank off the aperture.

The slinging brackets are another rust trap feature plus the external ones are always used by the unwary as jacking points, hence the distorted floors you find on a lot of minis. Again the internal ones do probably add some strength to the car overall but as they were only used for moving a empty shell around the factory how critical they actually are I do not know, however I delete them as well. I tend to add bigger plug welds than the factory spot welds so potentially adding additional strength.

[mab01uk]

Very early Minis did not have the later slinging brackets, only 5/16" bolts protruding from the floor so there should be no strength problems if you delete them.

More details here (scroll down) :-

https://1959miniregi...riations-shell/

 

[Cooperman]

As above, the jacking points add strength by tiring in the transversely cross member and the inner & outer longitudinal sills.
As the structure is thus better braced by the jacking point in that area it’s important to retain it, even if it is plated over to prevent ingress of water into the jacking point.