54 replies to this topic

[Rubbershorts]

Morning everyone.

 

To try eliminate the noise and vibration in the car I'm wanting to swap out the lower two of the upper subframe mounts. They look to be in some kind of poly, so want to try the standard rubber. If the noise and vibration isn't reduced, and the handling is affected, I'll swap them back. Any tips on what I should be doing to make this easy? Does anything need to be moved? Like the radiator for instance? It all looks a bit tight in there and I can't see how the subframe drops if you unbolt the towers. Does the body have to be jacked up independently in some way? Anyway, your thoughts would be appreciated. Daz.

Attached Files

•  1000018024.jpg   61.15K   20 downloads
•  1000018025.jpg   27.33K   22 downloads

[nicklouse]

Support car body and subframe separately. Undo rear subframe mounts..  slacken top bolts and then remove,  lower the subframe untill you can pull out the “rubbers” replace Jack the frame back up and refit fastenings/bolts.

 

all covered in your Haynes manual. 
 

ps your donuts look like they are due a replacement.

Edited by nicklouse, 03 October 2024 - 08:42 AM.

[Rubbershorts]

Support car body and subframe separately. Undo rear subframe mounts..  slacken top bolts and then remove,  lower the subframe untill you can pull out the “rubbers” replace Jack the frame back up and refit fastenings/bolts.

 

all covered in your Haynes manual. 
 

ps your donuts look like they are due a replacement.

Cheers Nicklouse. Does the gap open up by much? Just so I know how far to let it drop. The cones are brand new.

[DeadSquare]

The gap will open up enough to remove the steering rack, but you only need about 1/2".

[Rubbershorts]

The gap will open up enough to remove the steering rack, but you only need about 1/2".

Sounds like they're easier to remove than it looks on first inspection. Thanks.

[Lplus]

Be aware of the brake pipe from proportion valve to the front brakes on the subframe.  The connection visible in the photo may need to be undone to drop the subframe more than a  very small amount.

 

also check the carb doesn't hit the bulkhead.

Edited by Lplus, 03 October 2024 - 11:15 AM.

[andyapanel]

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

[Rubbershorts]

Be aware of the brake pipe from proportion valve to the front brakes on the subframe.  The connection visible in the photo may need to be undone to drop the subframe more than a  very small amount.

 

also check the carb doesn't hit the bulkhead.

okay Lplus, that's valuable information. Are you saying I should disconnect it, or if I were to go more than required it would then need to be undone?

[DeadSquare]

Just wondering about the "Rubbershorts" nomenclature.  Are you also a yachtsman ?.

[Rubbershorts]

Just wondering about the "Rubbershorts" nomenclature.  Are you also a yachtsman ?.

Haha, no, I'd love to say yes but it's a school nickname. Doesn't mean anything, it's just a play on my surname. 

[Lplus]

 

Be aware of the brake pipe from proportion valve to the front brakes on the subframe.  The connection visible in the photo may need to be undone to drop the subframe more than a  very small amount.

 

also check the carb doesn't hit the bulkhead.

okay Lplus, that's valuable information. Are you saying I should disconnect it, or if I were to go more than required it would then need to be undone?

 

I would personally seal the master cylinder cap and disconnect it, then reconnecting and bleeding at that point should ensure you don't need to bleed the brakes.  It really is your choice depending on how far you think you need to drop the subframe.  Looking at how close the pipes from the proportioning valve are I'm not sure if you might have to remove them to get the mount out and put the new one in - but that might be an optical illusion.  I was more trying to give you a general warning for what to look out for than give you direct instructions.

[Rubbershorts]

 

 

Be aware of the brake pipe from proportion valve to the front brakes on the subframe.  The connection visible in the photo may need to be undone to drop the subframe more than a  very small amount.

 

also check the carb doesn't hit the bulkhead.

okay Lplus, that's valuable information. Are you saying I should disconnect it, or if I were to go more than required it would then need to be undone?

 

I would personally seal the master cylinder cap and disconnect it, then reconnecting and bleeding at that point should ensure you don't need to bleed the brakes.  It really is your choice depending on how far you think you need to drop the subframe.  Looking at how close the pipes from the proportioning valve are I'm not sure if you might have to remove them to get the mount out and put the new one in - but that might be an optical illusion.  I was more trying to give you a general warning for what to look out for than give you direct instructions.

 

Noted. Cheers Lplus!

[Rubbershorts]

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

Hi Andy. It's an experiment. Trying to eliminate the noise and vibrations. They're pretty bad and sometimes render the rear view mirror useless. If it makes no difference I may change back.

[DeadSquare]

 

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

Hi Andy. It's an experiment. Trying to eliminate the noise and vibrations. They're pretty bad and sometimes render the rear view mirror useless. If it makes no difference I may change back.

 

 

 

 

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

Hi Andy. It's an experiment. Trying to eliminate the noise and vibrations. They're pretty bad and sometimes render the rear view mirror useless. If it makes no difference I may change back.

 

Have you thought, when driving, of taking out your hearing-aid ?

[Rubbershorts]

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

Hi Andy. It's an experiment. Trying to eliminate the noise and vibrations. They're pretty bad and sometimes render the rear view mirror useless. If it makes no difference I may change back.

 
 

I use metal mounts. The rubber ones seemed to have a mind of their own, and would move around.

Hi Andy. It's an experiment. Trying to eliminate the noise and vibrations. They're pretty bad and sometimes render the rear view mirror useless. If it makes no difference I may change back.

Have you thought, when driving, of taking out your hearing-aid ?

Pardon?