10 replies to this topic

[The-evil-GT]

Hi all, I recently brought my little mini out of a 2 year hibernation and started fiddling around with it like installing a new hardline to replace the old rusted fuel lines and trying to get the engine working. The engine was in initially very easy to Flood, so I took the spark plugs out cleaned Them and heated them up and put them back in the car Eventually fired into life and the idle Was a bit high as the throttle return spring seems to be a bit week (advice on this would also be helpful) When I tried to give it a few revs, the car would seem to get between 2000 and 3000 revs and start to misfire. Would anyone be able to tell me what could be causing this? I’m a little concerned that it is possibly a kink in the line from the fuel line I just replaced But not 100% sure as I can’t see any obvious signs.
Any other suggestions of what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated. I have a video of it if anyone wants to see if I’ll hopefully be able to send it, if not I’ll put it on YouTube and share a link to it. At the end of the video I turn the ignition off and it continues to run afterwards which it hasn’t done before either. Just for a bit of context the engineering question is a 1380 with HIF 44 manifold, maniflow Stainless exhaust, Evolution, two camshaft and high lift roller rockers.

[68+86auto]

Start with the ignition system. Don't touch the carb/fuel system until the ignition system is perfect unless there's an obvious fault like fuel leaking. Your "flooding" issue may very well be an ignition fault.

 

Check the points, condenser, rotor, cap, leads and coil. Don't replace them unnecessarily though, there's too many rubbish parts sold. Is the coil correct? Is there excessive voltage drop?

 

Once those are all checked and fixed, check the ignition timing throughout the rpm range.

 

Only once the ignition system is confirmed to be perfect do you move to the carb/fuel system.

 

 

 

Checking the fuel system. For a start, please upload some photos of the engine bay and carb for us. Often the carb has been connected incorrectly and wastes a lot of time.

 

IF the carb is connected correctly then proceed. Adjust the idle speed to the specification. Now adjust the idle mixture, there's only one mixture adjustment screw and it's for the idle. If you are running lean/rich above idle, you either have an issue or the needle/spring needs to be changed.

Edited by 68+86auto, 02 October 2024 - 11:20 PM.

[Cooperman]

If it has been sitting for a while, the bob weights at the base of the distributor may be sticking. Clean them with brake & clutch cleaner and lightly re-lube with 3-in-1 oil.

It may not be that, but it's well worth checking.

[The-evil-GT]

The car has got an accuspark (i believe ) electronic ignition with vacuum advance which appears to be working correctly. Not sure how well timed it is but I’ll definitely investigate it

[The-evil-GT]

That’s a pic of the carb  IMG_8582.jpeg   53.61K   23 downloads

[I hate Brian]

Have you fresh fuel in the tank ?

[lsto]

It looks like you have left the breather connection on the carb open. This needs to either be connected to the engine breather pipe or blocked off.

[The-evil-GT]

I’ll block the breather hose and see if it changes at all

[The-evil-GT]

Have you fresh fuel in the tank ?

Unfortunately not. I put some petrol in a Jerry can about a year and a half ago. It was e5 super unleaded and I didn’t think it would cause that much of an issue, but again it’s definitely worth a try

[68+86auto]

It looks like you have left the breather connection on the carb open. This needs to either be connected to the engine breather pipe or blocked off.

Exactly.



It's why I ask for pictures.

[The-evil-GT]

Hi all, thanks for everyone’s help, I hadn’t realised that the crank case breather hose wasn’t connected. The mini is still stubborn to start but eventually got there and she ran great. Finally I can see the light at the end of the tunnel with this project.