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Leaking Oil (Second Part)


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#1 PACINO

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Posted 18 September 2024 - 05:15 PM

Hi everyone! After putting the car on the lift and having the engine running, we were able to see where the oil came out. It is from one of the holes that holds the front metal plate on the bloke. This plate (12G2626) was installed new, and the timing chain cover is screwed onto it. Curiously, the timing chain cover does not leak a single drop of oil.
What do you think about this arrangement? I understand that it must be the person who rebuilt the engine that must fix this.


12-G2626-www-7ent-com.jpg


IMG-20240918-WA0027.jpg

https://youtu.be/U2j...E-z5shK-DCw0L5E

Kind regards
Luis

#2 sonscar

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Posted 18 September 2024 - 05:51 PM

Might be the photo but the cover looks bowed,Steve



#3 whistler

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Posted 18 September 2024 - 06:46 PM

A leak showing there might be from the half moon seal. 



#4 Earwax

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Posted 18 September 2024 - 08:41 PM

It could be an incorrect bolt length was used and when seated flush it is pushing the cover away - but not normally in that lower position

 

OR

 

I think there are oil galley plugs in that vicinity. Depending on how the block was prepped they could be plugs or grub screws. The thread's pitch can vary - but easy to use a good approximation to the thread but not the correct thread - and weeping occurs.

 

On some blocks/ engine plates the grub screw is half covered at the edge - and so very problematic to get to. ( I have previously dremelled the edge of an engine plate cover to make sure the grub screw is accessible - but ultimately fluid sealant . loctite type products and heavy duty thread seal tape in my instance proved unreliable. The problem was rectified by a new grub screw with the correct thread ( was it BSB?????-not sure) and make sure it is not sitting up past the block face when installed.

 

So - who put the grub screw in - was it removed for thorough cleaning of the oil galleries? - or has an original one finally let go?  My point being it could be the machine shop or the engine builder or 



#5 PACINO

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Posted 18 September 2024 - 10:08 PM

Thank you very much for your responses, especially to Earwax. This engine was made at home by a private person, supposedly "experienced" in these engines for years. But he doesn't answer my phone or answer my emails.
So at this point, not knowing if this is easily repairable, and if it can be done without removing the engine from the car.... it's total despair.

#6 ings

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Posted 19 September 2024 - 07:31 AM

if the engine pushes oil out of the new halfmoon seal and also the oil cap then you have a problem with the piston rings...

 

Again the piston ring gap is the important number that you have to know.



#7 PACINO

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Posted 19 September 2024 - 08:12 AM

if the engine pushes oil out of the new halfmoon seal and also the oil cap then you have a problem with the piston ring..


Good morning! What is the half moon seal?

#8 Lplus

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Posted 19 September 2024 - 08:30 AM

 

if the engine pushes oil out of the new halfmoon seal and also the oil cap then you have a problem with the piston ring..


Good morning! What is the half moon seal?

 

The black semicircular seal which fits between the gearbox and the engine front main bearing cap.  It is visible in your photograph at the end of your arrows in the gap between the engine end plate and the gearbox casing.

 

It is not clear to me whether the bolt visible in your photograph between the arrow heads holding the green  timing cover to the end plate on is touching the gearbox casing.  That is supposed to be a short bolt which just goes through the end plate only.


Edited by Lplus, 19 September 2024 - 08:30 AM.


#9 GraemeC

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Posted 19 September 2024 - 08:47 AM

Most likely the half moon seal.  Can be done in situ with the'stiff' seal that MiniSpares sell, but is quite a bit of work.

 

https://www.minispar...|Back to search



#10 ings

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Posted 19 September 2024 - 08:56 AM

a new halfmoon seal will also leak when the piston ring gaps are wrong... so you have to check the compression and a leak down test.






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