10 replies to this topic

[OzKopite]

Hey guys, can anyone advise on how to repair the seams on the mini? Is it a case of cutting both panels and respot welding?
The rest of the panel is solid

Cheers

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[68+86auto]

Clean it up to find how bad it really is. That looks at a stage that you'll need to cut it out and replace if you want it to last. Not an easy task.

 

I looked at your other posts, unfortunately I believe that body will need almost every panel replaced.

Edited by 68+86auto, 29 August 2024 - 05:53 AM.

[OzKopite]

Yeah I'm starting to see that I'm not too worried about the amount of work needed I just need some examples of how others have done it. It would be a shame to replace the whole panel when it's just the seam (on some ot them)

[stuart bowes]

the only way I can see it (I'm sure there are other people with better ideas) is doing it piece by piece, maybe 6" at a time

 

cut a rectangle, put a radius'd fold in it (it won't be a hard tight bend) and then use a shrinker / stretcher to curve it in the right places.  cut out the corresponding part of the panel, weld in the new piece.  and so on

 

some pieces will be trickier to shape than others, and obviously some won't need much shaping at all (up the pillars and so on) 

 

I would focus on the replacement of panels first and that will leave you with whatever hopefully minimal areas left to do

 

it's a long time consuming task and will only be as good as the time and attention you pay in to getting the pieces the right shape and getting them clamped in nice and flush before you weld

 

you'll have a job just replacing the seam itself because then you have to try and not only weld an internal corner you also have to tidy up that internal corner which is not easy.  and you'll get a stronger more reliable weld if you replace some of the 'flat' section at the same time 

Edited by stuart bowes, 29 August 2024 - 01:30 PM.

[sonikk4]

Is it doable, yes it is, however because of the curvature of some of the panels you will need a shrinker/stretcher to fabricate correctly. Even then there will be certain sections that require further shaping other than what you can achieve with a shrinker/stretcher.

However it’s a lot work as it’s not just a flat section you will need as looking at those pictures you will need suitably shaped ‘L’ sections to completely remove all of the rusted sections.

So as Stuart has alluded to, replace the panels you need to replace and see what’s left to do.

[68+86auto]

Also when you patch such a large amount of the panel, the strength of the body can be severely compromised. All repairs should ensure that the body matches the factory strength.

[OzKopite]

Thank you for the advice, I think I have managed to pickup a good 2nd hand rear boot and rear window panel I can use for repairs

[OzKopite]

Another suggestion from a guy I work with was to de-seam it?

[stuart bowes]

I wouldn't personally, partly because I don't like the look (personal choice obvs) but also there's a lot of work involved which isn't any easier than just repairing it as it should be 

 

doing it well isn't the easiest job, and the original design with the seams adds a lot of strength which you'd have to add back in in other ways 

 

once you've done the back end you'll need to do the same to the front and access to the back side of the A pillars isn't easy

 

I'd stick with the original advise which was replace the floors, then do the rear panel, consider replacing the rear quarters seeing as you'll be picking them apart to do the rear arches anyway, and see what's left to repair, which is essentially just the C pillars by the looks of it .  then add the C pillar reinforcement plates for extra strength and also gives you seatbelt fixing points .  if you had them to start with then you'll probably have to remove them anyway for access to the welding

[Ethel]

That's a thing, but you still need good steel to weld to. It's how far round the corner the rust has got. The distortion risk is greater without the stiffening lip of the external seem, so deseaming would usually be done in short sections.

 

I think I'd start by copying the profile in to some timber or MDF to make a former.  You can bend sheet round it. If you have a male & female you can clamp a flat strip so you're always stretching the metal - though most of it is convex anyway. You could also split a length of copper pipe & form that to back your welds.

[sonikk4]

De seaming when done properly does look good and with a good quality paint job will accentuate it.

HOWEVER having seen the car my neighbour had which was fully de seamed so every external seam including the roof, that car was beyond economical repair. More ripples than the English Channel. It was truly awful.

So IF you go down that route as it is a personal choice get it done properly with the right amount of reinforcement behind it. You may ant to consider lead loading over the welded areas as well to help prevent any cracking from flexing.