12 replies to this topic

[v6matt]

I'm not ready to move onto the engine side of my restoration yet but was wondering what the cost would be for a full rebuild of the original 998, compared to maybe changing to a 1275 and rebuild that insted? Yes I have the 998 now so obviously there will be extra cost of getting a 1275, but rebuild wise, would there be much difference in price?

[GraemeC]

Very little different cost to rebuilt a 1275 over a 998.  For both it will depend on how good the starting point is.

[Icey]

As above, nothing in it really, the money is paying for the machining (assuming you’re doing the build yourself).
Only thing a 1275 will give you is more options for pistons, rods, and cranks. There’s generally less support for the small bores.

[v6matt]

As above, nothing in it really, the money is paying for the machining (assuming you’re doing the build yourself).
Only thing a 1275 will give you is more options for pistons, rods, and cranks. There’s generally less support for the small bores.

Good to know about the more options, thanks.

[whistler]

If you rebuild the 998 then you could fit a 1098 crank and pistons which will give you an extra 100cc. They use the same block for both sizes.

Have a look at CalverST and check out his articles on small bore engines.

[Be87n]

Don't forget about machining costs for the cylinder head. If the head is really bad machining for it will get really close to the cost of a properly flowed head like a CHT-88 for the small bores. Throw in a new cam for a small amount and you have a belter of an engine. Yes, it is nog 1275 but it will be a cracking 998.

 

Is it a smart thing to do? It all depends on the condition of your engine. A running engine that's just worn out is far cheaper to rebuild than one with rusty bores and a head that isn't fit for unleaded yet. If you do a proper build machining alone will cost somewhere in the range of 1000-1500 euros. That includes new bearings, pistons the lot but no performance parts. I'd say a simple rebuild with just machining wil set you back somewhere in the 2000 euro range. If you're gonna attack the gearbox as well, and you will want to, add another 1000 to that sum. Some speedparts and a carb refurb and 4000 euros isn't a weird number to have spent on just the engine.Buying a good running 1275 would be far cheaper ofcourse.

[beardylondon]

I had my 1275 rebuilt by these guys, great job, long waiting list, but that was back in 2018, no where near £4K!

https://bromsgroveengineservices.com/

[Shooter63]

These are the prices I was charged for the most recent engine build

Rebore £43.50 per bore ( this was for a +100 cut )

Regrind crank £23.00 per journal

Fit cam bearings £45.00

Resize conrods £86.00

Balance rods £72.00

Including a set or ARP rod bolts, bearings and thrusts the total was £920 Inc.

Shooter

[stuart bowes]

Where was that done, and how long ago, just curious seeing as we're both Essex cheers

[sonscar]

If it were me I would try Plan A,fit engine and use it.Plan B if A fails rebuild it.Do you have evidence it is badly defective?Just my view,Steve..

[Shooter63]

Where was that done, and how long ago, just curious seeing as we're both Essex cheers

Late last year,Damico, in Norfolk, its a long way but they are great guys, they know A series engines, Keith Calver was based there at one time, and they do all of SC machining and dyno work. You might want to give Gosnays a go, I've never heard bad things about them, I believe Oz of OAP fame uses them.

Shooter

[humph]

I had mine fully rebuilt, new pistons, evo cam etc. Cost about £1800 in 2022 from memory. I did supply a 295 head myself , but this and the block were both machined to get the right CR in that cost.

[Cooperman]

It's always difficult to give a projected price for an engine build. The standards of one builder are often different from those of another.

 

To do a high-quality rebuild requires a full strip-down and measurement of everything. This is followed by initial machining. Once the initial machining has been done a 'trial-build' must be carried out to ensure that it all goes together and to do final measuring. This includes checks on piston ring gaps, position of pistons in the bores and cylinder head chamber volume measurements. From this, final machining can be done and this includes any balancing of the bottom end components, decking of the block to bring the piston to be flush at TDC and skimming of the head to get the chamber volumes correct for the desired CR.

 

Final careful assembly can then take place including the accurate timing-in of the camshaft using offset key, fitting of distributor and basic timing. 

 

The head will have been rebuilt with new valves and guides (reamed). The valves will be lapped in and valve-to-seat sealing checked.

 

The labour for all this is unlikely to be less than 20 hours, at what, £60 per hour. Add machining at around £700 plus parts (pistons, bearings, oil pump, water pump, valve set, valve guides, valve springs, camshaft, cam bearings, cam followers, full gasket set, timing chain & sprockets, oil gallery plugs, and some sundries) the prices of which you can get from Mini Spares catalogue.

 

Finally add in other parts normally changed such as clutch plate, engine mountings, engine steady bushes, hoses, etc.

 

That's how it all adds up. There are, of course, engine builders who will not do such a thorough job, but there are three things possible with a rebuilt engine: Powerful, Reliable, Cheap. However, you can only have two of those and with cheap you may not get either of the other two.