41 replies to this topic

[aguiloco]

Thanks you very much for all your advice!

I'm going to clean an lap the crank, is the only thing I can do before drastic actions.

I'll post the results ASAP.

[aguiloco]

Hello guys.

 

This is the result after a couple of back-breaking hours of lapping. I was very careful to apply pressure evenly and rotated the crank frequently, trying to avoid deformation.

 

The night came so the lighting is not great:

 

 

 

 

For those who said it was worth trying, what do you think about the result? Could be usable?

 

The old flywheel taper is pretty damaged, lapping a new flywheel will improve the surface quality?

 

Thanks!

[Spider]

As (if I recall) this isn't a high reving engine putting out loads of power, I'd use that. It is a bit on the ugly side, but at the end of the day, all you are looking to do is get the flywheel locked on to that. While it's pock-marked, there is still reasonable surface area there ti achieve that.

If you've done this lapping with the flywheel that came off it, then just check there isn't even a hint of a step in the small end of the taper in it. If there is, then one remedy is to have it turned parallel on that last 2 or so mm of the small end of the taper. You could at a pinch even do this with a die grinder. This is only so the flywheel doesn't get hung up on that step.

I will suggest when it comes time for final fitting of the flywheel, to put some very light oil on the taper to allow the flywheel to well slide down on it as you tighten the bolt. They oil needs to be light enough so that once the flywheel come home hard and tight, the oil film breaks down under the pressure. Get the Bolt as tight as you can muster, and I'd suggest using loctite 243 with no lock-tab on the threads, just be sure to clean them first.

[aguiloco]

I'll check for any steps at the small end, but I don't think there's any, just the burb at the key.

Wild idea here, could JB weld be used to fill those small holes? It will improve surface contact a bit, maybe.

[Spider]

Wild idea here, could JB weld be used to fill those small holes? It will improve surface contact a bit, maybe.

 

 

Errr,,,, no.
 

[aguiloco]

How important is the locking washer considering I'll torque the bolt to 150 and use Loctite? Bending the metal with the complete clutch assembly in place will be difficult, it is a new MED assembly and I don't want to mess with the balance.

[Ethel]

I'd omit it without worrying.

 

By all means wait for a 2nd opinion/argument 

[imack]

I was advised by KAD to use a 'tap & torque x3' technique.
Torque bolt to 150lbft without thread loc or locking washer.
Then, holding the socket on the flywheel bolt, give the socket 3 sharp blows with a decent sized hammer and re-torque the bolt to 150lbft - the bolt will turn slightly.
Repeat this procedure 3 times.
Remove the bolt and apply loctite 2700 and torque again to 150lbft without further tapping.
Don't use a lock washer.
Has worked for me. Flywheel has been removed numerous times and absolutely no fretting between what was a brand new EN40B crank and KAD flywheel.
The KAD puller has no problem removing the flywheel again.

Edited by imack, 15 June 2024 - 03:07 PM.

[Spider]

I stopped using locktabs years ago, not just this one, but all of them (except on ball joints).

On those, like the flywheel. that I am concerned about, I use loctite 243, and also clean the threads with paint thinners first.

[aguiloco]

Great! No washer then. I'm waiting on the special grease for the clutch splines to complete the repair, should arrive next week.

Thanks!

[aguiloco]

I forgot to put an end to this topic, sorry about that.

I toques it up to 150, tap it, repeat 5 times and torqued it a bit pass 150, I hope when the time comes to remove the flywheel again it isn't welded, but that's a problem for future me.

The car has done around 1000kms and the repair seems to be holding well.

Thank you all for the great tips!

Cheers

[rww]

      Great news, we all love a happy ending 

 

         I don't think it will weld or fret itself to the crank but I think you will need a good puller to remove it.