How To Lock The Crankshaft Without The Flyweel
#1
Posted 02 June 2024 - 02:24 PM
The clutch was recently replaced and the brilliant mechanic didn't use a locking washer, so the bolt came undone, the keyed washer moved out and now the flywheel is not connected to the crankshaft.
The keyed washed is stuck out of place, I can't get it in its place, must be deformed. I need to unscrew the flywheel retaining bolt to check damage but can't use the flywheel as a locking point for the crankshaft because it is rotating feely inside.
Is there another safe point to lock the crankshaft without much disassembly?
Thanks
#2
Posted 02 June 2024 - 02:34 PM
I think you will be pulling the engine out anyway.
but you could insert some soft rope into the engine via the spark plug hole on a piston that is on compression stroke both valves will be closed.
I would still pul the engine.
#3
Posted 02 June 2024 - 03:20 PM
Tow it round to the "Brilliant Mechanic".
#4
Posted 02 June 2024 - 04:25 PM
I managed to get the bolt out! seems like the damage to the crankshaft is not horrible, I'll post some photos lather when I have access to a PC.
#5
Posted 02 June 2024 - 05:18 PM
Crank bearing shell with a long piece of tape on the end, works a treat.
#6
Posted 02 June 2024 - 05:58 PM
Crank bearing shell with a long piece of tape on the end, works a treat.
On what? They flywheel is not attached.
#7
Posted 02 June 2024 - 06:39 PM
Thanks!
#8
Posted 02 June 2024 - 08:44 PM
This is how I found the system:
As you can see there is no lock washer, at first I thought that because of that the bolt came loose until the yoked washer jumped out of place, but the bolt was very tight, maybe the previous mechanic didn't place the keyed washer in place in the first time.
This is the damage done to the crankshaft, I think the small deformed edges can be filed down and still have a good place for the yoked washer to rest, the tapered shaft has some marks but I have seen worse. As it is I think is not necessary to remove the crankshaft, that's an operation I'm not equipped to perform at home.
This is the damage done to the flywheel and the keyed washer, both need replacement.
The seller is offering to pay for any defective part that needs replacing, and also an economical compensation for my labor, which is nice of him.
#9
Posted 02 June 2024 - 11:13 PM
You will definitely need a new flywheel boss.
The crank taper could be metal sprayed and re machined, but is there anyone locally with the skill ?
#10
Posted 02 June 2024 - 11:38 PM
The rounding of the crank slot , the rounding of the washer edge and some possible thread rounding at the end of the bolt make me think that the flywheel wasn't pulled down fully - got held up on a little burr on the crank - fastened up okay until it didn't hold - this created space for the fretting. ???
#11
Posted 03 June 2024 - 04:12 AM
Attached Files
#12
Posted 03 June 2024 - 06:58 AM
I don't have the car with me now, parked in the countryside, but I don't think that's a crack, just another little mark.
Taking care of the clutch system I can manage, but pulling the engine out to replace or machine the crankshaft is a job that I'm not willing to accept.
Returning the car to the seller is complicated, I'll have to arrange transport for 650km again, stop the administrative process and reclaim the cost of the title transfer with the government, cancel the insurance, etc...
I had bad luck, this failure could happened during the test at the seller's, but it happened 30km later, and now I have to choose between cutting my losses, starting the tortuous process of returning the car, or getting a new clutch system and use the crankshaft as it is...
Taking into account the logistics of returning this car, replacing the clutch is the fastest and cheapest option to be able to enjoy a mini right now.
#13
Posted 03 June 2024 - 07:15 AM
The crankshaft nose seems to have melted due to friction. Reusing as is has significant risk.
Will the new clutch centre accurately on the nose so as to run true and not wobble?
Will the taper contact area on the melted metal be adequate to transfer load without coming loose and stressing the keyway ?
Will the clutch end up further up the nose than intended due to the wear and jam against the C washer and spacer holding the primaary gear on. This can jam the primary gear and lead to the clutch appaarently failing to disengage.
#14
Posted 03 June 2024 - 08:46 AM
doubt the flywheel will seat correctly on that crank and you may end up back where you started as it moves down the nose under use only this time it could end up welded on rather than loose. could be cause of original fault as you loaded up the flywheel using the clutch it eventually moved down the nose enough to come loose, not helped by star fitting it totally incorrectly.
you are in a jam but could be making more issues for yourself reusing
#15
Posted 03 June 2024 - 08:48 AM
Those are my concerns Lplus, I'm sure it could work with a new flywheel, but how well and for how long is a mystery...
The best I could do at home considering taking out the crankshaft as a last resort could be to mount the new flywheel/clutch system and use a dial to measure the wobble in both planes.
What a nightmare...
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