11 replies to this topic

[Manb2ndb]

Hi, I’m in the process of replacing or refurbing all suspension components.

A few things I’m struggling to find on the forum..

When I had my MOT my mechanic said that he found it hard to torque up the front bearings which were replaced by him but still had play. (Borg and beck) I thought to my self hub wear maybe, so I’ve bought new hubs/timkens etc, when I dismantled the old ones, a couple of thin washers were placed over the conical washer. I assume this proves the wear! Plus the hub nut was loose!

I also bought a 13” wheel to 10” wheel brake kit, minipares. I’ve found the drive flanges won’t fit over the studs on the discs? Is it easy to remove a stud and re-align or drill out the drive flange hole slightly? I only ask as the studs won’t budge?

Thanks in advance,

Nathan
87 Mayfair

[RichB]

When I got the 10" conversion kit, the studs were not perpendicular to the disc and wouldn't fit the flange. I used a press to push the studs out, and replaced them with the flange in place to ensure they were straight.

[Ethel]

How big were the flat washers? The split cone washer is supposed to compress against the CV's shaft for a tighter fit. It the washers extended across the drive flange they could stop that happening. Even if they didn't, if they were made of softer steel, they could go in to yield (plastic deformation) - not everyone realises washers are as critical a part of a fastening as the threaded bits.

 

I suspect they might have been added to try and line up the split pin hole, instead of addressing why the hole wasn't lining up.

[andyapanel]

Did your mechanic use the correct tool to tighten the hub nut?
If yes, was he mini sympathetic? At one time I went to a VW dealership for MOTs and asked for the mini trained MOT tester as there is a lot more slack in minis than VWs. Younger MOT testers may not know what is normal movement in joints in minis.
Hope it is sorted soon.

[Lplus]

Hi, I’m in the process of replacing or refurbing all suspension components.

A few things I’m struggling to find on the forum..

When I had my MOT my mechanic said that he found it hard to torque up the front bearings which were replaced by him but still had play. (Borg and beck) I thought to my self hub wear maybe, so I’ve bought new hubs/timkens etc, when I dismantled the old ones, a couple of thin washers were placed over the conical washer. I assume this proves the wear! Plus the hub nut was loose!

I also bought a 13” wheel to 10” wheel brake kit, minipares. I’ve found the drive flanges won’t fit over the studs on the discs? Is it easy to remove a stud and re-align or drill out the drive flange hole slightly? I only ask as the studs won’t budge?

Thanks in advance,

Nathan
87 Mayfair

Frankly I would question whether your mechanic has any idea how the front bearings on a mini work.  I recall when I bought the saloon I own, the front bearings on the 7.5 in discs had play, but after tightening to the correct torque and on to the next split pin hole they were fine.  It seemed the previous fitter had tightened the nuts finger tight and fitted the split pin as if they were unspacered taper rollers as fitted to some other vehicles.

 

I did actually change the bearings as well but the fact remains that whoever fitted the bearings didn't seem to understand them.

Edited by Lplus, 06 May 2024 - 07:23 AM.

[Spider]

All vehicles with a Live Front Axle, like the Mini are very similar and let's face it, front drive vehicles have been around a long time now. Surely most mechanics know the CV nuts have to be tight.

If you are getting play it will be from;-

    Worn or out of spec bearings (the latter common with non-genuine parts),
    A worn hub (yes, the do wear),

    Incorrect assembly

You can fit all the washers you like to the Tapered Washer and tighten the CV Nut 'till the cows come home, but if the issue is one of the first 2 on that list above (and it will almost certainly be one or both of them), then there will still be play in the bearings. They are either right or wrong - there is no adjustment.

There's further info here, which you might find helpful;-

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/

[Lplus]

All vehicles with a Live Front Axle, like the Mini are very similar and let's face it, front drive vehicles have been around a long time now. Surely most mechanics know the CV nuts have to be tight.

If you are getting play it will be from;-

    Worn or out of spec bearings (the latter common with non-genuine parts),
    A worn hub (yes, the do wear),

    Incorrect assembly

You can fit all the washers you like to the Tapered Washer and tighten the CV Nut 'till the cows come home, but if the issue is one of the first 2 on that list above (and it will almost certainly be one or both of them), then there will still be play in the bearings. They are either right or wrong - there is no adjustment.

There's further info here, which you might find helpful;-

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/

Most fwd vehicles now have bearings packaged together in a steel outer casing that needs to be pressed into the hub, or even bolted to the hub as a unit, and the centre nut is just tightened as necessary.
 

[Manb2ndb]

Ah thanks I’ll try and realign the studs.

The washers were slightly smaller than the conical washer to bring it level. To be fair, it may of been like that before he MOTd it. I’ve been fixing bodges ever since I got it. He not a mini or classic car guy, but a decent old school one to get the car through its MOT. I do pretty much everything else.

Thanks for the info about bearings. I researched a bit and thought for safety I will replace with all decent parts.

I found a missing spline on the driveshaft, so all that and joints are new.

[Manb2ndb]

The bearing seals were the wrong way round and opposite as well.

Ball joints also flapping on the wind. Everything looks very original and tired. Got my work cut out.

[Lplus]

Ah thanks I’ll try and realign the studs.

The washers were slightly smaller than the conical washer to bring it level. To be fair, it may of been like that before he MOTd it. I’ve been fixing bodges ever since I got it. He not a mini or classic car guy, but a decent old school one to get the car through its MOT. I do pretty much everything else.

Thanks for the info about bearings. I researched a bit and thought for safety I will replace with all decent parts.

I found a missing spline on the driveshaft, so all that and joints are new.

If the conical washer is so worn as to be recessed into the drive flange I believe it is possible the inner edge of the washer reaches the end of the driveshaft splines and goes solid before the bearing is tight.

[Spider]

Most fwd vehicles now have bearings packaged together in a steel outer casing that needs to be pressed into the hub, or even bolted to the hub as a unit, and the centre nut is just tightened as necessary.

 

Yes, many new ones do use Bearing Units, I even have a design and prototype for the Mini using such components, but, the principals are the same and the CV nuts are still done up very tight, all for the same reasons as they are on our Minis.
 

[Cooperman]

I recently fitted a new set of Timken front wheel bearings and after tightening everything, there was play in the new bearings.

I stripped it all out and the spacer on the new set was about 0.004" wider than the original one. I swapped the spacers and the fit was perfect. 

It's just adverse tolerances on new stuff these days.

As Chris says, the play is not controlled by the cone bush and big nut.