18 replies to this topic

[mbolt998]

I've managed to get some better flares with my tests. I've identified the problem and now able to make more consistent flares. It seems that the stop bolt supplied in the kit is slightly too short which resulted in too much tubing entering the die. So as was suggested by Steve, it seems to be too much tubing causing it to "bunch up" in the die.

 

So with slight adjustment, flares look ok?

 

new flare on the left orignal flare on the right

old-new-flares.jpg

 

 

Flare seated in the M10x1 SAE tube nut that goes into my dual master cylinder.

new-flare-seat.jpg

These look like the flares I get too (but I always do OP2 as well-- may not be correct but works for me). What you have on the right looks flatter behind the domed part. I think that is how DIN or "bubble" flares are supposed to look. The thing on the left is what I think Spider is calling a "double flare to SAE J512", created just by doing OP1, even though it's called a double flare.

[Lplus]

 

I've managed to get some better flares with my tests. I've identified the problem and now able to make more consistent flares. It seems that the stop bolt supplied in the kit is slightly too short which resulted in too much tubing entering the die. So as was suggested by Steve, it seems to be too much tubing causing it to "bunch up" in the die.

 

So with slight adjustment, flares look ok?

 

new flare on the left orignal flare on the right

old-new-flares.jpg

 

 

Flare seated in the M10x1 SAE tube nut that goes into my dual master cylinder.

new-flare-seat.jpg

These look like the flares I get too (but I always do OP2 as well-- may not be correct but works for me). What you have on the right looks flatter behind the domed part. I think that is how DIN or "bubble" flares are supposed to look. The thing on the left is what I think Spider is calling a "double flare to SAE J512", created just by doing OP1, even though it's called a double flare.

 

It may be that the original flare on the right has already been crushed into a female connector and the male nut has thus altered the shape of the back of the flare.

[miniGTS]

I'll be using OP1 only on my flares. The one on the right was from the factory fitted brake lines and had a 3/8 UNF tube nut with a very small taper inside.

[Spider]

I've managed to get some better flares with my tests. I've identified the problem and now able to make more consistent flares. It seems that the stop bolt supplied in the kit is slightly too short which resulted in too much tubing entering the die. So as was suggested by Steve, it seems to be too much tubing causing it to "bunch up" in the die.

 

So with slight adjustment, flares look ok?

 

 

Looks good to me !