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Retro Fitting Mk 2/3 = Dead Car.


Best Answer Utopian2 , 11 April 2024 - 06:19 PM

I'm sorry to say that people might not learn much, and it's a bit embarassing, but here goes.

 

I spent the last two evenings reading up on the electrical side of things.

As part of this it was mentioned that you should always check your multimeter before each use, I hadn't does this for a few years (that's Lexus for you...), and they had always checked out fine.

 

When touching the points together, I got a figure of around 0.5 Ohms - rather than zero or near-zero and not far off the reading when testing each fuse.

I also read about 'Phantom Draw' (or 'Drain'), which suggested that the battery may have been constantly running down all the time I was trying everything else (again the duff multimeter not helping much).

 

So, as a last attempt before sending it to the Mini specialist, I thought I'd take the battery out and charge it in the house, to keep an eye on how discharged it was.

It took 10 hours to fully charge a bog-standard ~40AH Halford's battery, obviously meaning that it was completely flat (6 Amp (rms) charge).

 

Anyway, so I put the charged battery in and tried the car this afternoon - the lights etc worked, which suggested it wasn't as bust as I had assumed, but still no cranking.

 

I figured that just replacing every fuse & the battery would be a small fraction of a tow away and repair, so I got a lift to the little side street car parts place, bought the specified bag full of fuses and a Yuasa 075 Battery with a 4 Year Warranty (from GSF).

 

I unscientifically replaced all the fuses in the car and it started first time, on the 'original' battery!

 

So, a big thanks to 'KernowCooper' for his encyclopaedic knowledge of the Mini's electrical system, and electrics in general.

 

Although the old battery was able to start the car, KernowCooper states that a battery once completely flattened, it isn't worth having, so I think I'll put the Yuasa 3000 075 one in it's place - £69 from GSF as a 'click and collect' price seemed ok, and ups the capacity by a third to 60AH.

 

But it was the fuses that did it - for £10!

 

I'm only sorry I can't add much to the pool of knowledge, without having identified the specific fuse causing the fault - but at the price, who cares really.

Thanks everyone, and good luck to you all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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#61 Utopian2

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Posted 11 April 2024 - 08:33 PM

I just use a multimeter to check for continuity across a fuse as quicker than removing and more reliable than a visual inspection unless obviously blown.

If a fuse has failed then there is no continuity. I don't think there is a need to change all the fuses. Just check them properly but glad you have resolved the issue.

I'm a scientist, so I appreciate my 'dumb luck' solution is unsatisfying.

 

The multimeter never showed any lack of continuity, which made the whole exercise more difficult.

The multimeter I have had for 25 years was showing as 'replace battery' today, I don't know if that had anything to do with it.

Perhaps I should retire it, and invest in a new one?

 

I know I should retire, I don't think I have the patience to diagnose cars anymore.

 

Thanks again to everyone who contributed, and for taking the time to assist & correct me.



#62 tmsmini

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Posted 11 April 2024 - 11:20 PM

I think it is valuable to have posted the result. The wiring in the MPis is approaching over 25 years old, corrosion and abrasion take their toll. It is possible that even removing the fuses and reseating them might have helped.



#63 Utopian2

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Posted 13 April 2024 - 03:39 PM

I think it is valuable to have posted the result. The wiring in the MPis is approaching over 25 years old, corrosion and abrasion take their toll. It is possible that even removing the fuses and reseating them might have helped.



#64 Utopian2

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Posted 13 April 2024 - 03:40 PM

Good point regarding the age of the electrics.




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