63 replies to this topic

[Utopian2]

Progress report: I have ordered the Haynes manual.

[Utopian2]

Before I set off to the garage with my multimeter, I wonder what people's opinions are of fuses that light up?

 

A useful tool, or a waste of money?

[Davidmt]

Glow blow fuse are usually for the blade type of fuse - not seen any for the glass type.  If you have blade fuse then they are fine and give a quick sign that a fuse has blown.  

 

The real issue is why any fuse has actually blown and stopping it happening again.

[Utopian2]

The only possible causes are the the rear near side light leads, indicator or reversing, or the electrics on the fuel tank - I haven't touched anything else. I get continuity putting the red needle via the loom to earth on each of the wires, except the one which is green with a brown stripe - which is reverse, I think.

Does this help?

I got in touch with the local Mini specialist, a guy called Mr Thomas of 'Thomas Classic & Modern'.

He's not exactly local, I'm in Cardiff and he's up in Cwmbran. He says I'll have to get the car to his place before anyone will look at it, so it'll be costly before we start.

Thanks again to all those who reply.

P.S. I can't even find the solenoid, I think it's deep down on the left hand (O/S) of the engine bay. Everything is so crammed in, I suppose I'd have to remove lot's of bits to get to it from above (only option).

[Utopian2]

P.P.S. If it is the light cables, it shouldn't happen again, as it's all safely in place, the same as the N/S, and I've fitted the isolation switch.

[Utopian2]

In response to Steve's advice earlier in the thread,I have disconnected both light clusters, but sadly this made no difference.

[tmsmini]

I am assuming this is an MPi as it is a 97, and not a JDM SPi model.

Do you get any dash lights at all. Has the key fob been resynced? Doe it have a key fob or has it been modified?

Has anyone added any creative wiring? It sounds like you checked all the fuses, both the ones in passenger compartment and the larger 30 amp fuses in the engine bay? How about the fusible links, have those been checked?

 

The Haynes is useful, but the Rover manual in PDF form is good as well especially for the electrical diagrams. It is in the pinned thread, but you might have to look for it through a few posts.

[Utopian2]

Thanks for taking the time to reply everyone.

 

 

From reading 200+ related threads on the forum, it seems like nobody knows with any degree of certainty.

 

The posts that hold the most promise are an issue with the solenoid connection, but perhaps an inline fuse seems more likely as it seems to crop up a number of times with the same symptoms.

 

Now I just have to find out where they are, without access to the car from below...

 

Goodnight all.

[Utopian2]

I am assuming this is an MPi as it is a 97, and not a JDM SPi model.

Do you get any dash lights at all. Has the key fob been resynced? Doe it have a key fob or has it been modified?

Has anyone added any creative wiring? It sounds like you checked all the fuses, both the ones in passenger compartment and the larger 30 amp fuses in the engine bay? How about the fusible links, have those been checked?

 

The Haynes is useful, but the Rover manual in PDF form is good as well especially for the electrical diagrams. It is in the pinned thread, but you might have to look for it through a few posts.

It's an MPi. I've only had it 7 weeks or so. No electrical changes have been made, apart from the rear lights.

 

I have 2 key fobs, one of which has never worked since the day I bought it and the previous owner changed the key fob battery. Despite repeating the steps in the owner's handbook 100+ times, I have not been able to revive this key fob.

 

The other one works fine. but I'm reluctant to suspect the alarm or immobiliser - there aren't enough milliwatts reaching it to even light up the LED.

 

There is only the very slightest faint glimmer of red light from the oil section in the dial above the steering wheel for a few seconds when the key is moved to the engine start position, that's it, no starter motor, no internal or external lights, no radio, no wipers, no washers.

 

It behaves almost exactly the same as if the car had no battery, although it does have a verified fully charged battery on board.

 

Any help, gratefully received.

[Utopian2]

I really am off to bed now. Working then 6 hours on the car most days is wearing me out.

[sonscar]

A rarity but is the starter stuck in the flywheel?Steve..Get a lamp with some leads made.Connect it across the battery,does it light up?Take the negative lead off the battery and connect it to a bare part of the body,does it light up?Have you connected the battery the wrong way round at any point?Electricity is very basic but it sounds like it is not your true forte.Be careful as the battery has a lot of power if you are unfortunate to connect things wrongly.Be safe,Steve..

[Bobbins]

Cut your losses and get an auto electrician on it, it'll save you a whole load of pain.

 

Unfortunately we don't know what we don't know so if you're not getting anywhere, employ a professional.

[gazza82]

From reading 200+ related threads on the forum, it seems like nobody knows with any degree of certainty.

That's because we aren't the ones holding the multi-meter. It's now down to systematically checking pretty much everything from the battery onwards.


If you aren't getting any volts except across the two battery terminals then there is a serious break in the wiring somewhere. Normally this would be handled by the fuses but there are more that one fuse box and some inline fuses on these ater cars.

Not sure about fuseable links in the wiring ... not worked on an MPI.

Get someone to hold the multimeter on the battery while you try starting the car and see what happens to the volts. It should start at around 13.6V if it's a good battery ...


You mentioned you couldn't find the solenoid.

One type is mounted on the starter motor which should be easy to find to the left behind the grille.

The other type will be mounted in the engine bay and can be found by following the big thick cable back from the starter. The other side of it goes back to the battery. That side should register 12-13v if tested to earth.

That's your starter for 10 ...

[Davidmt]

 

From reading 200+ related threads on the forum, it seems like nobody knows with any degree of certainty.

That's your starter for 10 ...

 

 

No - that's the solenoid 

Edited by Davidmt, 09 April 2024 - 01:57 PM.

[Utopian2]

 

From reading 200+ related threads on the forum, it seems like nobody knows with any degree of certainty.

That's because we aren't the ones holding the multi-meter. It's now down to systematically checking pretty much everything from the battery onwards.


If you aren't getting any volts except across the two battery terminals then there is a serious break in the wiring somewhere. Normally this would be handled by the fuses but there are more that one fuse box and some inline fuses on these ater cars.

Not sure about fuseable links in the wiring ... not worked on an MPI.

Get someone to hold the multimeter on the battery while you try starting the car and see what happens to the volts. It should start at around 13.6V if it's a good battery ...


You mentioned you couldn't find the solenoid.

One type is mounted on the starter motor which should be easy to find to the left behind the grille.

The other type will be mounted in the engine bay and can be found by following the big thick cable back from the starter. The other side of it goes back to the battery. That side should register 12-13v if tested to earth.

That's your starter for 10 ...

 

 

Cut your losses and get an auto electrician on it, it'll save you a whole load of pain.

 

Unfortunately we don't know what we don't know so if you're not getting anywhere, employ a professional.

Thank you for your advice.

I've tried Googling again for Cardiff based auto-electricians - they all seems to get reviewed as crooks.

 

This gives me an added incentive to stick at it for a while longer.