63 replies to this topic

[Utopian2]

I followed the instructions a kind member had posted, a guide to the change - I think the older style looks better on my 97 Cooper.

I changed the driver's side, with only a little difficulty (mistook all green wire for the 80% green wire, with a touch of brown-reversing light(?)) - result, dead car.

Learning from my mistake, I repeated the process on the passenger side.

Nothing I had read prepared me for the difficulty of moving the fuel tank to allow access to the bolts/nuts holding the passenger rear light cluster in place (YouTube guides suggested it was so easy that they didn't even show that bit).

So,having wrestled the tank out of the way,I was able to remove the light cluster and repeat the process from the driver's side.

Everything back in place, the car is completely dead, on a full battery.

Only 4 wires go in and out of the horrible 4 cable adapter (so easy to connect, so hard to separate) from the car on the driver's side.

On the passenger's side the connector has 4 outputs (I isolated the green and brown one, just as before). The passenger 's side has 7 inputs from the car?? Now the car is dead (again). It started first pull before making the changes, now not even the lights or immobilizer show any signs of life.

I suspect this will boil down to a simple grounding issue, but as things stand, I am a middle-aged man who is frustrated by this car that is so hard to work on.

Any help will be greatfully appreciated.

All the best.

[gazza82]

Checked the fuses?? Green is ignition controlled live feed so it will blow at least one fuse

[mab01uk]

Mk2/3 Light Conversion:-

https://www.theminif...ght-conversion/

Edited by mab01uk, 03 April 2024 - 10:05 PM.

[Utopian2]

Thanks for the replies.
I can check the fuse, but as it was working until I disconnected the 4 way connector, I'm not to hopeful.
Thanks for the link to the article also, unfortunately this is the one I followed, and has no mention about the difference in wiring on the two sides, 7 Vs 4.

My first idea is to use the reversing light section of the MK4 light, ground it, put a bulb back in to the socket and see if of the circuit is completed. If it is then hide the mess behind the fuel tank.

Any other ideas welcomed.

Edited by Utopian2, 04 April 2024 - 12:33 PM.

[gazza82]

There shouldn't be any reason why you have lost all power unless you have blown fuses or burnt out wiring. Sounds to me like the former .. but if all the fuses check out (don't rely on sight .. use a multi-meter to check continuity) then something more drastic has happened.

I've disconnected lights and other items for years without problems. The only time I have had a problem is where wires touch that shouldn't!

[Utopian2]

Thanks for replying again.

 

I should say the the fuel tank has been moved out of the way 6 inches or so (cap back on inside boot), to enable me to access the rear of the tail light, so that is a likely culprit, but it is just so damn hard to allign and refit it on oness own.

 

 

I have checked all the fuses, well, the main one next to driver's right knee containtaining the 12 or so fuses, and the black one nearest the front centre left of the engine bay, all 30 Amp, all fine.

 

P.S. I did try partially reconnecting the taillights by putting the reversing wire through to the the old (mk4) light - no joy, I wasn't very confident, just desperate at the end of a long day.

Edited by Utopian2, 04 April 2024 - 02:20 PM.

[Utopian2]

I should also say that it did a similar thing when I had the reversing light and indicator light swapped by mistake on the driver's side, volmeter down on zero (charger showing damaged battery), but that this was rectified very quickly by swapping the leads and it started first time. The battery charger showed fully charged after 30 seconds charging.

 

Should the car start with the engine in the boot?

 

It does actually give the faintest glimmer of light from just one of the warning lights in the clocks, but no lights, noalarm, nothing.

[Utopian2]

Fuel tank back in place and cap on, locked.

 

Nothing has changed, no electrics, no light, no starter.

[Midas Mk1]

Moving an MPi tank out the way is a doddle, alot easier than earlier cars, have you got a multimeter? your going to have to do basic wiring checks next, starting with 12v battery voltage, ground continuity from boot floor to 12v, then checking if you are getting 12v on the starter solenoid. 

If you've shorted a live to ground changing the loom, then look at the wiring diagram pdf on here. 

Edited by Midas Mk1, 05 April 2024 - 08:27 AM.

[Utopian2]

Sorry, I haven't looked a circuit diagram since school.

 

It's possible the indicator or reversing got shorted to earth, as the cables were bare for a few minutes before I isolate them.

 

If  this is what happened, what is the remedy?

(all fuses I couuld find double checked with multimeter).

 

Thanks for your help

[gazza82]

It's possible the indicator or reversing got shorted to earth, as the cables were bare for a few minutes before I isolate them.

Was the ignition on?

[Utopian2]

I don't believe so. I only asked my son to test the ignition, lights etc when the job was complete (or so I thought).

[Utopian2]

It's possible though.

[GraemeC]

The difference in number of wires is simply that for the brake lamps, tail lamps and reverse lamps the wires loop from the passenger side connector to the drivers side. Only the indicators are separate.

Did you disconnect the battery at any point?

[Utopian2]

Yes, I have tried to disconnect the battery each time it seemed appropriate.
Thanks for your reply.