73 replies to this topic

[johnR]

I ended up replacing the brake master cylinder, then one of the swivel hubs started leaking so I serviced/refurbished that. With the rolling chassis back on four wheels I re-started work on the engine, lapping the valves, fitting them and fitting the heads to the block. I now need to check the cam lifter pre-loads and bolt on the front cover and sump. This afternoon I made a tool to prime the oil pump out of an old wheel nut which will be welded onto a length of thin tube to go in my drill. I feel I'm making good progress now - once the engine is fitted I'll be massively incentivised to finish all the parts and wiring to get it mobile.

 

[johnR]

The engine is now home! This afternoon I bolted on the engine mounts that line up with the original Land Rover chassis mounts and the starter motor. Before and after engine resto

Edited by johnR, 17 January 2026 - 05:05 PM.

[johnR]

The engine is now in! Exhaust manifold fit is the next challenge - one fits OK but the other has a lump cast on it (for a sensor?) which fouled the bulkhead. I've ground it off and will now have to get the resulting hole welded up.

[johnR]

Today I worked on plumbing the engine in - mocked up the remote oil filter position, finished bolting the bellhousing to the adapter ring and measured up for hoses. Also trial fitted the carbs and airbox - amazingly the choke cable is exactly the right length to use without modification! The clutch flexi will need to be re-routed as the standard position fouled the exhaust manifold on that side - shorter one ordered.

Edited by johnR, 02 February 2026 - 05:57 PM.

[johnR]

Finding a shorter clutch flexi was harder than I thought - solved in the end by Exact Engineering in Totnes - fantastic next day service for a realistic price - I can't recommend them highly enough! I've now made an extension to the accelerator pedal to take the end of a cable, fitted the exhaust manifolds (what a pig with limited access - just like Mini engine mounts!) and removed the second swivel joint for re-furbishment after filling it with oil was rewarded with a leak. While I was grubbing around underneath the chassis I noticed that the front shock lower bushes have become very loose so new ones are waiting to go on. 

Apart from a few tweaks of various components, re-wiring is now the main job left to do and I feel I could rig the engine for a test-fire fairly quickly. Exciting!

 

[Retro_10s]

corrr look at those honking great SU's  

[stuart bowes]

hoovering up old ladies and little children as you drive along lol

 

looking good though, enjoying the updates

Edited by stuart bowes, 08 April 2026 - 02:02 PM.

[johnR]

corrr look at those honking great SU's  

Yes, much sexier than EFi!

[johnR]

I've loosely run the majority of the front  wiring loom - just need to decide whether to route it between the pedal towers or between the clutch pedal box and the junction box (leaning towards the latter). I love the colours of these braided wires - almost worth the extra expense!

[johnR]

This was what it looked like when I got it

Then I removed this:

Now it's 99% done - just need to connect the dipswitch and earth the fan, then on to wiring the instrument panel

[johnR]

Back on four wheels! Now need to make the last few electrical connections and re-fill axles, swivels and brake/clutch reservoirs then time for a start-up.

 

[johnR]

Nearly there! N/s wing final fixed including lights connected, dash/switch panel needs connecting and indicators wiring. I'm waiting for a lower radiator hose clamp before I can start her up.

[johnR]

Some setbacks were encountered - the fuel pump wouldn't prime and when I filled the radiator coolant is leaking out onto the valley gasket. After much deliberation and checking for air leaks, trying different set-ups, hoses etc and following a suggestion online I moved the pump from beside the chassis in front of the fuel tank to on top of the chassis beside the tank, reducing the prime length by almost half. This had the desired effect so I've now made a plate to mount it on. Sorting the coolant issue will require removing the inlet manifold and, I presume, re-sealing the manifold to head joins. 

[johnR]

I've removed the rubber seals under the valley gasket to allow the inlet manifold to sit lower - successive head skims have meant that the manifold sits high and with the rubber seals the gasket didn't line up and the bolts were a pig to fit. This has solved the leak, thank goodness! I now need to plug in the instrument panels and we should be good for a start-up.