11 replies to this topic

[theoldmini]

My temp gauge reads low when engine at operating temp.  Looking at minispares website there seems to be 2 senders that will fit.  My gauge has a pointed bezel so do I need to buy GTR104.  I am unsure of engine age as it does not have number on the block.  Thanks

[Compdoc]

As you don't know the age of the engine, I be swayed by MiniSpares.

 

"Most minis with dual gauges up to 1969 including Cooper S Mk2 that had oil/temp gauges fitted used this type and all when fitted with a voltage stabiliser.

Minis before Sept 1964 except some super deluxe and pre Sept 1964 Cooper without voltage stabiliser used GTR102 with green identification nose.

After 1969 use GTR101.

Another guide is that the gauge for this had a pointed bezel but if you have the later rounded bezel type from 1970 on try GTR101 if readings seem wrong".

 

As the sender is only £5.82, I'd take a chance.

 

[stuart bowes]

or save the shipping cost and find one with free delivery on ebay https://www.ebay.co....GTR101&_sacat=0

 

minimine in particular have done well with quick delivery times for me in the past (I have no personal stake in them just what I've experienced that's all)

 

I do still think of mini spares as a reputable supplier I use them for larger value orders where the shipping cost makes sense (and the TMF discount is worth more)

Edited by stuart bowes, 17 January 2024 - 07:15 PM.

[Spider]

It depends on what thermostat you have fitted - 82⁰ or 88⁰ C.

The sender is calibrated (or should be !) to keep the needle in the middle of the N range at operating temperature.

The GTR101 suits 82⁰ Thermostats and off hand, I think it's the GTR for 88⁰.

Having just typed that out, what I have found is that all the available senders make the gauge read hotter than is really the case.

[Steam]

There is no guaranteed "This gauge needs this sender" in reality. Two identical senders will give different readings on the same gauge. You need to mix and match to find the combination which suits your needs, or just put up with the inaccuracy.

[68+86auto]

They don't seem to be very accurate and I wouldn't expect it to be with the gauge size/range. My one always reads a bit hot and that is with the original sender and gauge. There isn't much more movement before it is in the red.

Edited by 68+86auto, 18 January 2024 - 01:35 AM.

[Spider]

There is no guaranteed "This gauge needs this sender" in reality. Two identical senders will give different readings on the same gauge. You need to mix and match to find the combination which suits your needs, or just put up with the inaccuracy.

 

 

They don't seem to be very accurate and I wouldn't expect it to be with the gauge size/range. My one always reads a bit hot and that is with the original sender and gauge. There isn't much more movement before it is in the red.

 

The gauges are actually adjustable

BUT, you do need the right sender to start with.

[beardylondon]

I tried and tried with multiple different ones, from different suppliers, I was told I needed the red ended one for my mk1, and all were inaccurate. So I took advice from on here and fitted a mechanical temperature gauge, not cheap, but at least I know the car is not overheating now!

Edited by beardylondon, 19 January 2024 - 08:54 PM.

[Midas Mk1]

I remember the battle of getting the temp gauge to read correctly, about 5 senders later, a nos one from Dads spares sorted it on my centre smiths binnacle, all the new ones read wrong for me. (Dont forget the voltage reg too - mine went up as the fuel gauge went up at first haha)

Not a problem on my sc injection kit, I tested the sender in a water bath measuring resistance at different temps, then plotted on the software. 

If i did it again id just get a matching Stack or racetech temp gauge & sender and sack the smiths original gauge / sender off. 

[JustTooJazzy]

I've had no end of trouble trying to find a combination of original Smiths temp gauges + new sender units that actually provides a near-accurate reading, in my case they either read ridiculously low or stupidly hot, neither of which are ideal. When I attempted to measure resistance values across brand new sender units, even those of the exact same type/part number, they varied considerably. I wish I'd never misplaced my original sender!

 

At this point I've just accepted the inaccuracy and learned where "normal" actually is on the gauge, I also keep a laser thermometer gun handy just in case I want to double check. When I eventually overhaul my Mk1 I'll also likely fit an alternative to the original Smiths gauges - either a nice set of their fancy electronic Flight range (to match the tacho I got for a bargain £30!) with matching senders, or another brand entirely.

 

A common "solution" that others have suggested is to fit one of the Smiths mechanical dual gauges that measure water temp and oil pressure, as fitted to MGBs and other cars.

[Spider]

I gave up on the Senders on offer. I used the Smiths 'universal' Sender and made an adaptor for the Mini Head;-

 

 

(Stock sender at the top for reference)

 

 

I mentioned above that there is adjustment in the Gauges. On the stand alone 52 mm round gauge, you'll find these on the back;-

 

 

Just make small adjustments. These are not a screw but a cam type adjuster, so they only have limited movement and limited adjustment. One of these is for the C end of the scale and the other for the H end.

The twin and triple cluster gauges in the Smiths brand have similar adjusters, though the individual gauge for these needs to be removed to access these adjusters.

[theoldmini]

Fitted new GTR104 now reading is just above the N.  Happy with that all good.