13 replies to this topic

[DFitz]

To any experts out there:

 

I have a US Spec 1275 '68 MkIIS. Recently reactivated barn find after sitting for 30 years.

 

I've done quite a bit of mechanical replacement, and have an OEM style heater core and control valve coming from Mini Spares.

 

I've heard some rumblings, that the OEM valve is prone to leaking past the valve into the heater core, not being able to shut off the heat.

 

My question is: Are the OEM valves a problem? Solutions?

 

Dave

[Chris1275gt]

If you’re going to be spending money with Minispares then become a TMF member for £5 and get a 7.5% discount. I think that applies for overseas members?

[Ethel]

They were always a bit troublesome, but by leaking externally. Spurious ones used to fall apart. The design is similar to a domestic tap (fawcett), so I can't see it having a problem shutting off. It only really needs to restrict flow enough so the blower can cool the matrix faster than the water heats it - perhaps people expect an instant response from the temp control knob & blame the valve for not being able to defy the laws of physics???

 

Any valve you can fit in the hose could be made to work,

[Lplus]

The biggest problem is the need for the heater tap cable/wire to be held tight in the shut position.  if the cable lock doesn't hold the cable secure the tap will leak by.

 

I did have one with a leak through the casting due to a casting fault but they're usually fit for purpose.

[mab01uk]

Genuine Mini Spares heater valve.

"The original RANCO tooling has been scrappped so beware of some imports available where the inners quickly explode loosing the metal cap and all your water when operated.

This has M4 metric thread bolt included for the cable screw instead of the 11/31"unc thread original.
For the correct best specification part available you will see MSC stamped on the side of the casting."

http://www.minispare.../ADU9102MS.aspx

 

 

[Quinlan minor]

Beware the cheap copies!

I know someone who had one explode in his face, at full temperature, while he had his head under the bonnet (hood).

He was scalded but, fortunately, not permanently scarred.

[Steam]

Nearly every valve will leak past somewhat and it only takes a minute amount of hot water to render cold air warmer. I had to replace an aftermarket version with the same brand and type and the new one leaks despite all efforts to close.

[DFitz]

Thanks everybody.

 

The new valve, from Mini Spares, is in and working well.

[Davidmt]

Thanks everybody.
 
The new valve, from Mini Spares, is in and working well.

I have one to fit too. Assume it's reasonably straightforward? Do you have to drain anything or can it be done with clamps etc?

[DFitz]

New valve, or heater core or both?

 

Once the heater hoses were disconnected on the engine side, very little in the way of leakage from teh engine and radiator. When the heater core was drained, that was it. I still had a towel down though. I also replaced the heater hoses, so it was relatively clean.

 

Yes, straight forward. The only hiccup I had was the screw holding the push/pull wire was frozen, so I had to carefully cut it off to get the wire out. I also had to secure the push/pull cable on the interior side. It had broken loose from the back side of the knob. So, moving the knob didnt' do anything, just moved the entire cable around without pushing/pulling the cable. I got an aftermarket cable hold down, fastened it to the bottom of the panel just aft of the knob. I also used JB weld to glue in the cable to the back end of the knob assembly again. Worked like a charm. Nice and secure now.

 

Good luck!

[croc7]

To any experts out there:

I have a US Spec 1275 '68 MkIIS. Recently reactivated barn find after sitting for 30 years.

I've done quite a bit of mechanical replacement, and have an OEM style heater core and control valve coming from Mini Spares.

I've heard some rumblings, that the OEM valve is prone to leaking past the valve into the heater core, not being able to shut off the heat.

My question is: Are the OEM valves a problem? Solutions?

Dave

After having two of the damn things blow the front cap off, I installed an old style Morris heater valve & adapter from Moss Motors P/Ns 360-400/360-415. Works great, only downside is that remote control of the valve isn’t available from inside the car but I haven’t had my ‘nether’ parts doused with hot water while adjusting the ignition timing since.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I fitted a new Minispares heater valve a few years ago.  It worked perfectly for a few years but then stopped shutting the coolant flow off completely.  Fed up with having warm air coming from the heater in the middle of the summer I fitted a heater tap from Car Builder Solutions under the dash.  So far so good and it's much easier to fine tune the heat than it was using the cable control.  

 

https://www.carbuild...12-heater-valve

[floormanager]

I like that idea

[Spider]

I fitted a new Minispares heater valve a few years ago.  It worked perfectly for a few years but then stopped shutting the coolant flow off completely.  Fed up with having warm air coming from the heater in the middle of the summer I fitted a heater tap from Car Builder Solutions under the dash.  So far so good and it's much easier to fine tune the heat than it was using the cable control.  

 

https://www.carbuild...12-heater-valve

 

Fitted loads of them, good trouble free valve. Some I've fitted under the bonnet, others, in the cab, next to the heater. They do have others in their range, some for cable operation and one that has an electric solenoid.