16 replies to this topic

[Propshaft]

Just about to refit the gearbox to the engine there was no spring washers on any of the fixing bolts the bolts have a built in washer is it a good idea to use a thread lock on these fixings

[DeadSquare]

Just about to refit the gearbox to the engine there was no spring washers on any of the fixing bolts the bolts have a built in washer is it a good idea to use a thread lock on these fixings

The factory didn't use anything, and I have never heard of bolts dropping out, so at the most, you might consider a bit of Hylomar gasket cement which is non-setting and handy to hold the paper in place when lowering the gearbox onto the block.

 

I have always found it is easier to hold, manipulate and see what you are doing, if you invert the block, and put the gearbox onto it.

[Propshaft]

Yes that’s the way I am doing it thanks

[Spider]

I don't know if there was a change later in the 80's to the Flanged Headed Bolts here, and if there was, then these used no washers, however the earlier stuff, certainly up to the mid 80's (and possibly to the end of production) used a hex head bolt and a spring washer (which would have been a medium grade);-

 

 

[bpirie1000]

Invert the block because... well why would anything ever be simple on a mini...

But can you do it with one eye closed and standing on one leg juggling spanners...

[Propshaft]

Yes I have the flanged headed bolts and no spring washers that’s why I wondered about using loctight on the threads

[govig]

I am currently rebuilding a very low mileage (8,000 from new) Spi 1275 to drop in my Moke. It is being converted to a single HIF44 and a cam swop to an Evo1 and a distributor change but otherwise standard.

 

Someone has suggested that whilst the block is stripped down to change the cam, the gearbox fasteners are upgraded from 1/4 UNF to either 5/16 UNF or M8 x 1.00.

 

Has anyone done this ? What's the opinion on its benefits ?

[Spider]

 

Yes I have the flanged headed bolts and no spring washers that’s why I wondered about using loctight on the threads

 

OK, gotya. If the fasteners are done up correctly, you won't need any thread locking compound.

 

 

I am currently rebuilding a very low mileage (8,000 from new) Spi 1275 to drop in my Moke. It is being converted to a single HIF44 and a cam swop to an Evo1 and a distributor change but otherwise standard.

 

Someone has suggested that whilst the block is stripped down to change the cam, the gearbox fasteners are upgraded from 1/4 UNF to either 5/16 UNF or M8 x 1.00.

 

Has anyone done this ? What's the opinion on its benefits ?

 

 

It's not necessary under any circumstances. All you'll be doing is making the block and gearbox odd ball to anything else, that has difficult to do up fasteners, with no benefit, Stick with the stock 1/4" Fasteners.
 

 

 

[whistler]

I am currently rebuilding a very low mileage (8,000 from new) Spi 1275 to drop in my Moke. It is being converted to a single HIF44 and a cam swop to an Evo1 and a distributor change but otherwise standard.

 

Someone has suggested that whilst the block is stripped down to change the cam, the gearbox fasteners are upgraded from 1/4 UNF to either 5/16 UNF or M8 x 1.00.

 

Has anyone done this ? What's the opinion on its benefits ?

Don't bother changing the bolt size. Some of the race engines have done that for a specific reason related to the high power output. Not needed on a road car. Especially not metric.

[DeadSquare]

I am currently rebuilding a very low mileage (8,000 from new) Spi 1275 to drop in my Moke. It is being converted to a single HIF44 and a cam swop to an Evo1 and a distributor change but otherwise standard.

 

Someone has suggested that whilst the block is stripped down to CHANGE THE CAM, the gearbox fasteners are upgraded from 1/4 UNF to either 5/16 UNF or M8 x 1.00.

 

Has anyone done this ? What's the opinion on its benefits ?

Yes.   It is worth changing the cam.

[Propshaft]

Thanks for all the advice I put the gearbox back on the block and did not use any loctite but found it impossible to get my torque wrench in to torque the bolts to required poundage

[DeadSquare]

Well that solves one of your problems, when somebody ask what you want for Christmas, say, a long extension for my socket set, please.

[Spider]

Thanks for all the advice I put the gearbox back on the block and did not use any loctite but found it impossible to get my torque wrench in to torque the bolts to required poundage

 

You need a Crow's Foot adaptor for your torque wrench for them.

[Ethel]

K fasteners, the ones with flanges used on A+ lumps, effectively have spring washers built. They're actually slightly concave.

 

Threadlock is generally a good idea, but it is likely to mess with your torque values if they are for dry threads.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

Thanks for all the advice I put the gearbox back on the block and did not use any loctite but found it impossible to get my torque wrench in to torque the bolts to required poundage

 

You need a Crow's Foot adaptor for your torque wrench for them.

 

Don't you have to use a different torque setting with crow's foot spanners to compensate for the change in leverage?  Sure I read that somewhere years ago but can't remember how you work it out.