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[Spider]

The Dirty Double Crossers                                                                  Written by Spider

Crossing the Simpson Desert - twice                                                        Photos from The Desert Rats

 

Part 1

WARNING:  Don't try this at home folks !

 

In putting this short submission together, it occurred to me early on that's it's not really possible in a few pages to cover the whole story here. When did the trip start for example ? It may appear that it started at the very end of July 2023, however as a personal journey for me, the story dates back to 1974 when I was mesmerised but looking through an atlas for the first time. The Moke Club's crossing in 1983 only fuelled my dream and of course, crossing the way it should be - by Moke. Spurred on by reading of the Club's adventure in the pages of Woman's Day, I awaited for my chance to meet up with Club Members for the first time at the Christmas Party in December of that same year, and hopefully hearing from them of the trials and tribulations from their historic crossing - the first and until our crossing here - the only successful crossing of the Desert by Moke, though, there'd been several attempts before, dating back to 1970 and many since, including an attempt by our crew in 2016, which can can read here;-

https://www.theminif...e-wish-us-luck/

 

While our crew, The Desert Rats, was made up of Club Members, Jack Mavromatis, Paul Marrano, our UK member Roger Glover, with his son Rich and myself, there were quite a few people who helped in no small part make this all happen. After a trip to Birdsville in 2014, culminating with the first time that a Moke made it to the top of Big Red (largest sand dune of the Simpson, right on the 'doorstep' of Birdsville), I had some discussions with our life members Alan Rayner, Greg Rinder and Bernie Zarcinas, who all took part in the 1983 crossing in regards to doing another crossing. It all started with a "no way, forget it" which over a few months turned around to a "you know, it might still just be possible",,,,, dangerous words !

 

 

To give some perspective here, the Simpson Desert is the largest Sand Ridge Desert in the world. Despite it's usually low recept of rains, it is a 'living' desert, in that there is always some flora and fauna, for which I'm pleased for. I think many folk who haven't experienced the Desert first hand, upon mentioning it, immediately think of endless baron sand dunes, Lawrence of Arabia style. The Simpson is far from that.

 

 

Map giving approximate size representations of Australia, the Simpson Desert and England.

 

While the Desert is made up of over 1100 sand dunes, between these dunes there are clay pans, which in themselves can be a blessing or a curse if there's been recent rains. The Desert also boasts a Gum Tree, claimed just as one, yes, but a gum tree all the same, though, we did find others. This one gum known as The Lone Gum. The Desert covers an area of around 175,000 square km. England only has an area of 130,000 sqkm. Desert population is zero, yet England has over 55 million, it must be standing room only !

 

Following our rained out 2016 attempt, we planned again for 2018, that was flooded again.  Then 2019, flooded yet again, then 2020 flooded as well as Covid hitting us all. 2021, Covid again. 2022 when it was too 'iffy' in regards to flooding, though that didn't happen, there was persistent rain. Would 2023 be our year ? 40 Years since the last successful crossing ? Some of our Crew had changed since planning started, however for some crazy reason that well escapes me, Roger stuck with me on this.

 

Originally, our long planned crossing was to take us from Mount Dare on the Western side to the Birdsville Track on the Eastern side along a similar route to that taken by the Moke Club in 1983. Most of this route had been Moked before, it was known and well entrenched in Roger's and my minds, we both knew it so well that we felt we wouldn't need to refer to a map. Well,,, that all turned on it's head when about 6 weeks prior to setting off, rains that fell some months earlier to the North had filtered their way down through one of the few creeks in the Desert, went in to flood, cutting off our exit less than 10 km from the Birdsville Track. It was clear it wouldn't be down and dry in time for our August crossing. Do we call it off yet again ? It was to be this year or never - cross or bust as they say ! Following a review and discussion between Roger and Greg, we felt we could be cheeky enough to consider a little used track that exits the Desert to the North,,, a long LONG way to the North. Jack and Paul didn't seem to mind the desert extension. When I looked at the map, seriously considering if this was an option, I have to say, I had a long quite 'moment', I still do even after the fact. Would this be possible ? After a change of underwear, I crunched the numbers, that only sent a cold shiver, but in terms of distance, it was in our grasp - just ! This new exit to the North took our total Desert section from 350 km-ish to just over 1000 km - tripling the distance and the time that we'd be between not just fuel fills, but other supplies - water and food. Could we cram in the additional items ? A quick think about it all, especially when reflecting on the Club's Canning Stock Route Trip of 1987 suggested we could, we'd just have to ! I swallowed hard on that, late changes never sit well with me.

 

Meeting up at Burra where the trip would officially start from, Greg Rinder together with his wife Rosalie,  Doug Munn, with his friends Sandy and Terry in tow, along with others who'd been looking on with great interest, or perhaps be the last time that they'd see us, also met up with us for a send off dinner.

 

The following day, we bumped in to Colin and Barb Francis, who were on their way back home after a week away with their neighbours. It was a wonderful chance meeting. They'd just come from our next destination - Farina.

 

 

A chance roadside meeting with club members, Barb and Col Francis.

 

The Farina Bakery had closed a week earlier, though I have to say, I'm happy for that as it also meant missing the crowds that come with it. At Farina we met up with the 4WD spectators who wanted to come along for the journey and to witness some crazy people out in the desert. Among them was none other than Alan Rayner, who volunteered at the earliest days of planning to make a video of the crossing, with our very own Chris Jonas riding shot gun. Before we arrived, Alan had made it clear to the 4WD crew that they were not to assist us, that they were all just 'going along for the ride'. On catching up with Alan, he seemed more excited than us. He'd also kindly marked out a 'Moke Only' parking area for us in advance of our arrival.

 

Departing Farina the next day soon saw us on the Oodnadatta Track to William Creek, where we made a left turn for the Opal Fields of Coober Pedy for a couple of days. We did a couple of tours, one through the Old Time Mining Museum, which I highly recommend and the other was through Riba's where we were staying, also highly recommended.

 

 

Underground Opal Mine Tour at Riba's. Our Guide seemed highly experienced and knowledgeable on many aspects of Opal Mining

 

 

The Rats underground at Ribas.

 

We returned to William Creek and continue the track to Algebuckina Bridge, after climbing all over it, we made camp for the evening on the banks of the Neales River, well known to the Moke Club since the 1976 Ayres Rock trip, when it was flooded to the extent that the only vehicles to cross that year were the 12 Mokes of the Club's, the 4WDers after waiting some weeks had no choice but to turn back.

 

 

 

Some of the crew getting the Mokes across the Neales on their way to Ayres Rock in 1976

 

Driving up the flatness of the Oodnadatta Track for many hours, then dipping down below the surrounding countryside to the Neales, the sight of this massive structure out here never fails to impress.

 

 

2023 Desert Rats in front of the dominating Algebuckina Bridge

 

There is a rumour that has been circulating regarding the Algebuckina Bridge that it had originally been ordered as the original Murray Bridge, but when it arrived from Scotland, but at 587 metres, was found to be too short. Great yarn, but that can be assigned to the rumour bin. It sure is an impressive structure, especially in this stetting. Even more impressive is thinking about how it would have been transported and built in place in the 1890's. 

 

 

The Desert Rats lined up at Algebuckina Bridge

 

Leaving the Neales soon saw us in Oodnadatta, where I was able to pick up a pair of thongs, having left my usually travelling pair at home in the rush to get out of dodge. It would also be our last contact with the outside world until we likely reached Boulia, in outback Queensland, about 2 weeks away - if we get that far !

 

 

Desert Rats outside the Pink Roadhouse

 

Just to the North of Oodnadatta is a favourite and I feel quite significant stopping post. I'm sure most travellers just see it as a stick in the ground as they drive past, but this 'stick', originally planted around August 1872 has a far reaching significance in modern Australia today.

 

 

The 'Stick' in the ground - the start of modern Australia. Angle Pole.

 

 

While not the original 'stick', this is the site of one of the poles that formed the Overland Telegraph that ran from Cable Beach in the NT to Adelaide, linking for the first time, Australia to the rest of the world by telegraph. This particular one is known as Angle Pole, being the previous name of the township of Oodnadatta. It was part of the start of today's Telecommunications and Internet for Australia.

 

Sit tight guys and gals, part 2 to follow shortly

[Spider]

Part 2

 

Shortly after Angle Pole, the daytime temperatures were reaching for the high 20's. We headed up the Hamilton Station track, with Eringa Waterhole our destination, though, Roger did manage to find one before that.

 

 

Flooded Creek Crossing, forever now known as Roger's Crossing, with Rich doing his bets to keep his feet dry.

 

A quick tow out from Jack, a by-pass found by Paul and we were on our way once more, only a little dryer.

 

By the time we reached Eringa in the later afternoon, it looked like Roger may have spent too much time in his waterhole, he was getting rather green around the gills. This was rather worrying as the ground around Eringa was rather hard & stoney. I didn't fancy the idea of having to dig him a burial plot there. We were all wondering that if he was going to pass on us, if he could at least hold out to the desert, the digging in the sand would be so much easier. Then again, Eringa Waterhole would make a wonderful final resting place.

 

 

 

The majestic oasis of Eringa Waterhole.

 

By morning, Roger was still alive and feeling slightly better. This came as welcome news for if his condition wasn't to improve shortly, we'd have to get him some medical assistance, while very much a secondary consideration at this point, this was looming as yet another threat to add to our long list of cancelled and failed attempts.

 

By morning tea we'd arrived at Mt Dare and Roger while not quite firing on all cylinders yet, he was clearly improving by the hour, looking like he may yet be saved from a desert resting place. A bite to eat, a cuppa, then time for the 'big fill' of fuel. This would be the last fuel we'd get for around the next 8 - 14 days, with the next fuel stop was over 1000 km away at Jervios Cattle Station, a long long way to the North, on the Plenty Highway.

 

 

 

 

Mount Dare Station on the edge of the Simpson Desert.

 

Leaving Mt Dare, our next stop was Dalhousie Springs. My first trip to Dalhousie was in 1985, the track then was quite rough and in the many times I've been there since, it's only gotten worse. Certainly in 2023 nothing had changed. It's a rough stony track that with all the traffic it sees in recent years, has also become heavily corrugated. While I was looking forward to getting to Dalhousie, I wasn't relishing the drive there.

 

 

 

 

Some of the corrugations around Dalhousie. Here we were 'airing down' some more to try and get better cushioning.

 

Sure enough, before getting to the Springs, a clanging from the front end let me know I'd broken an upper shock mount. I had spares - back home ! After removing the offending bracket, we moved on to the Springs where we set about repairing the offending bracket. Paul produced his angle grinder, I had a hammer, before long Roger had all the parts cleaned up and in shape. Drawing power from Jack's and my Moke, Roger soon hard them welded together and ready to fit back on.

 

 

 

 

With only the Lens from a Welding Mask, powered by Mokes, Roger soon had the Bracket welded back as one again.

 

While Roger and I were 'in the workshop' the others took the opportunity at this magical oasis on the edge of the Desert to cool off with a refreshing dip in the warm Springs of Dalhousie.

 

 

 

 

 The crew enjoying Dalhousie.

 

In the late afternoon, we left the Springs behind and took our first steps towards the Desert proper, the track had soon improved considerably. From the previous trips I'd done in to the Desert, this section always had a very high crown in the track, it also carries ALL the Western Traffic, so it was with some intrepidation that we went on, however, I was surprised and pleasantly so that the high crown and soft, soggy sections just didn't present themselves. Sometimes, you just get lucky !

 

Early the following morning saw us at Purni Bore, said to be an 'accidental spring' when in the 60's test drilling for oil, they drilled through the Artesian Basin, resulting in boiling hot water rising to the surface. It was left to free flow for many years, creating an artificial wetlands, however it was found that it's free flow, along with many other un-capped bores of the time, were lowering the level of the Artesian Basin. During the 80's, many of the bores were capped off, however with the flora and fauna that had come to depend on the wetlands created at Purni, it was decided to leave it at a very low flow rate to support the life that it had given.

 

 

 

Purni Bore. Note the area of thicker growth - the man made wetlands.

 

Shortly after leaving Purni Bore, we reached the mythical border the defines The Simpson Desert, that imaginary line in the sand. We were here and we all felt, just to get 'here' it already had been one hell of a trip ! We all felt elated to be here after all the years of planning and set back, but equally anxious for none of us really knew what awaited from here. The words 'no way, forget it' still loud in my mind. While many of us had glossed over maps and arrived at theoretical outcomes, none of us present really knew. Being somewhat apprehensive and with temperatures in the low 30's now, we thought it best for Roger to lead the charge for a bit.

 

 

 

Finally ! At the very edge of the Desert. What lays beyond ?

 

The dunes at this western part of the Desert while evident are not very high and presented little challenge. In truth, we'd be crossing sand dunes the since not far after leaving Dalhousie Springs, though the track was either caped with little of it actually been sand, that would soon change.

 

 

 

 

The Rats making off over the first few Desert Dunes after Purni Bore!

[Spider]

Part 3

 

Before long though, we where 'in to it' and the dunes that we all knew we coming were upon us, the going seemed easy, it sure made a pleasant change from the hard corrugations we were riding a day earlier. The Desert here too was not really desert like, I thought it was closer to the Aussie Bush. A LOT of rain has fallen, even out here, over the past 4 or so years, the Desert responded in the best way it can.

 

 

Coming down one of the dunes. Much of the clay capping is broken, covered by sand or gone today.

 

Before long, we all heard over the radio in a broad English accent "Look at these belters !!". Belters ? I could tell from the excitement in Roger's call that there was something noteworthy ahead. I was wondering to myself what a belter might be.

 

Coming over the next dune, there they were, 3 belters ! More commonly known to most of us as Camels. I'd encountered Camels before in the desert and while they are a bigger animal, these sure were big belters !

 

 

 

Roger's Belters !

 

Any Desert trip is going to be fantastic, however coming across a single camel somehow makes that adventure complete. These big fellas sure made up a lot of ground for us on that front. We were hitting a lot of goals already and this was our first day in the desert proper.

 

The first leg of our route followed a mostly west to east direction, over the dunes. We found the going somewhat smooth and easy. Intermixed with these 'horizontal' sections were some north-south tracks, through the swales (the part between the dunes), over the claypans. In the planning stages, these looked to be a 'snap', however, we found these to be often corrugated and in places, it was just rough track. And herein lays a balancing act;- go too slow and the Moke just vibrates violently, while they will take this, there are limits to just how much they'll withstand. Going faster (often considerably so) smooths out the corrugations from the ride, however, slowing down or stopping quickly, becomes an issue.

 

This balancing act isn't just limited to Mokes though. On the second day in we came across a small group of three 4WDs who had issues and were awaiting rescue from Mt Dare. Earlier, the Nissan in the group had broken an upper suspension arm, for which they made a 'dash' of some 1800 km (1100 miles) to Mount Isa for a replacement. Shortly after fitting that, the ball joint gave out, though, lucky for them, this they did have a spare for. Another day down the track for them and their Raptor had gone kaput, with Gearbox issues, though these appeared related to the computer. We stopped for a chat and offer what assistance we could. They were quite blown away at the sight of 4 Mokes out there. They each sat in Jack's Moke for a photo, after which we wished them the best and bid them farewell.

 

 

Harsh country ! Surprised 4WD crew.

 

The day was heating up, with the dunes now getting higher, sand drying out and progress for us was becoming harder. Jack had noticed that his rear subframe was moving much more than it should in it's mounts, something that would require attention before too long. Our better than expected progress and Jack's subframe mounts, we made an early camp just south of The Lone Gum, in a camp area I knew that gave us a grand flat area where we could spread out.

 

Although we'd had stopped early, we all took much of the afternoon 'off'. We'd been pressing hard for a good many days by this point, myself 4 days longer than the Adelaide crew and Roger & Rich a week longer than that, with no let up, being mindful that fatigue may soon set in, from which while on the road there's no recovery from, I put my stretcher tent up and enjoyed an afternoon's siester in this most spectacular location.

 

Feeling somewhat recharged, later in the afternoon, it had cooled a little. We set to work on Jack's rear subframe mounts, an easy though time consuming job. While spares for this repair weren't on our original list, to Jack's delight, Paul had a new set. While Paul dug these out from the bowels of his Moke, and the afternoon shadows growing longer, we put the shady side of Jack's Moke on a couple of blocks, time to get the hands dirty.

 

 

Our Desert workshop.

 

The repairs to Jack's Moke were done by early evening, time to kick back, and enjoy the fireside frivolities. Early the following morning and a few km up the track, saw us at The Lone Gum, a landmark location in the Desert. The placard at The Lone Gum suggests that the name 'gum' is a misnomer though, referring to this tree as being a coolabah. Another curious misnomer is that it's claimed as a 'lone' gum in the Desert, which we'll see later isn't quite accurate. These are usually found on flood plains and clay soils, not really the conditions we find here. That it is surviving so well does further show that while a desert, there must be some decent rains from time to time. Certainly a most magnificent sight in the Desert, though, most desert travelers usually cross on tracks further to the north and miss this altogether. Their loss !

 

 

 

The Rats enjoying the Desert spectacle of The Lone Gum.

 

Leaving the Gum, we headed north up the swales for a short while before again turning east and back in to dunes once more. It was becoming a familiar grind, for by now we were about two thirds the way across the west - east leg of our Desert Crossing. Had the creek on our original exit not flooded, the main part of our trip would soon be over, however, with our now modified desert route, we weren't even half way through the Desert. While the travel was becoming familiar, we were noticing the dunes were becoming bigger, though in the first part of the day, no more difficult to cross. The Mokes were amazing just how so easily clawed their way up, or at least, from the driver's seat, that's how it felt. The temperature of the day was again rising. Before too long, the track turned south and were found ourselves in the swales once more. The sunlight travelling in this direction seemed to just wash out all colour from the sand and clay, it just became a bright white. As it was on other swales, this too was corrugated and rough, though, picking the right pace eased that somewhat, I felt I was just getting it to a groove when BAM, I'm sure I saw stars even though it was broad daylight. I'd hit something, that I just plain missed in the glare. Focusing again on the track, I noticed that the front right of the Moke was now riding low. A quick check confirmed that I'd broken a Hi-lo. We found a suitable spot to effect repairs and once again we were soon under way.

 

Before long we found ourselves heading east again and on the edge of the massive lakes system of the southern part of the Desert. Having been over a good few of the Desert tracks now, I have to say that the uniqueness of the salt lakes in the this part of the Desert does make for some very spectacular enjoyment. Sticking to the wheel tracks, our route took us across one of these lakes.

 

 

 

 

 

One of the Salt Lakes of the Southern Desert and crossing it.

 

Previous times that I'd been here, these lakes were almost pure snow white, including just last year, however, from all the years of rains finally flowing down, they'd gone a light chocolate colour.

 

 

Crossing paths with a fellow travellers, the huge salt lake in the background.

 

While we were still around the lake system, we did still have dunes to get over and being on the eastern side of the Desert now, they were getting quite big, though initially, we were still crossing them OK. There was just 3 dunes left of our West - east leg and the dunes had finally won out over us, or at least, for a short time.

 

 

One of the last dunes of the West East leg. Stowing the Trax. This was the only time they were needed.

 

The next few dunes, while equally as big and soft did need a bit of work, but we all managed to cross them, some easier than others though, before reaching a turning point in the adventure, the end of the West - East leg and our first crossing of the Desert completed. For the most part, I have to say, it all seemed too easy, what traps are we driving in to ? It wasn't supposed to be like this, we'd all had thoughts of shovelling, traxing, towing, pushing and shoving to get this far, bar for one dune that we had to work at, we'd just driven it - so far. In many aspects, this leg represented what in my mind would likely be challenging in terms of dunes, though we still had several 'monsters' and likely chopped up tracks in our next legs ahead of us. As the morning heated up, it was time for morning tea then to head North on the next section.

 

 

The end point of our West-East leg. First crossing done and yes, it was dusty !

 

 

[Spider]

Part 4

At the end of part 3, we'd finished our first crossing of the Desert, from West to East. We still yet have another much longer crossing ahead of us, for we were only around 1/3 the way through the Desert section of our adventure. Turning North, we kicked off on our next leg, for where no Moke had ever been before. This next section was to be part of the SAMC 1983 crossing, however, with their fuel reserves low and still a long way to the next fuel pump, it had to be abandoned.  

The first 80 km / 50 miles, we were driving up a swale, there was a couple of dunes to cross, with the track travelled up the sides of these dunes, rather than going directly over them, so they didn't present a much of a driving challenge. It was getting on past midday and the temps were well heating up. The on going increase in day time temperatures to the high 20's (70's F) was not something that was welcome, but it was what it was. The dunes for much of the section were closer together, with us down in the swales, the heat seemed to be magnified coming off the dunes, I'm sure the temps inside the Mokes was more like high 30's (85's F). Having just come off a high of having crossed with reasonable ease the West - East section, it could have been easy to feel this was almost mundane, though there was loads of snakes and lizards dashing across the track to keep us a little amused. After a few hours of being hemmed in by the surrounding dunes, we broke out on to a salt lake, I'm sure the 'feel like' temps dropped by around 10 degrees C (20 F) or more. As it felt like we could breath again, we stopped here for a stretch.

 

Tail end of one of the Salt Lakes. The sky, like the lake, goes on forever !

 

As the shadows grew longer on our 5th day in the Desert, we were in a stones throw of another of our major objectives of the adventure. While we'd received advice from a few fronts that we'd never drive the French Line, especially at this location coming from the East, there was only time to loose by at least giving it a try. The first dune heading West, getting off the lake would be the most challenging for it's nearly always very soft steep sand and well chewed up. After an initial attempt, we dropped the tyre pressures even lower, then gave it another go. I knew if we could get over this first dune, we'd be away.

 

The Eastern end of the French Line. All that stands between us and another of our major objectives.

 

With gritted determination and trying to keep the rooster tails at bay, to our pleasant surprise we got over them, our objective, Poeppels Peg was now in striking distance. Roger and I had spoken of this moment for years and now it was almost upon us, I felt the hair on the back of my neck, while dirty, sweaty, it was standing up.

 

Roger giving the thumbs up at what we were about to achieve. Truly a moment in Moking history !

 

Taking another short track to our North, we reached the parking area. Wholly cow !! We were here !! I had to pinch myself !!

 

Poeppels Peg, the junction of 3 states, just visible above the scrub.

 

 

Roger and Spider congratulating each other on our achievement.

 

 

 

The Desert Rats at Poeppels Peg.
Roger Glover, Chris 'Spider' Katsikas, Rich Glover, Paul Marrano and a shirtless Jack Mavromatis.

 

Reaching Poeppels Peg, by Moke, had been a person goal for Roger for the last 10 years and of mine for about 40 years,  I have to say, I did find it quite an emotive moment. After relishing in our afternoon's achievement, we returned to the French Line and found a campsite to settle in for the evening.

After breaking yet another memorable camp in the morning, we headed back East on the French Line to the salt lake and once again, turned North, more or less, following the firm edge of the salt lake. On reaching the cross roads (cross tracks?) of the QAA line, (which heads to Birdsville, a tantalising 165 km / 100 miles off to the East), marked the start of our final though very long stretch up the Hay River Track to the Plenty Highway, some 530 km (330 miles) off to the North.

 

The QAA Line heading off the Birdsville 165 km to the East.

 

 

 

Start of the Hay River Track. Inset is the sign marking it. Considering the Permit Fees, it's no expense spent here !

 

Part 5 to follow
 

[Spider]

Part 5

 

We were still in dune country, though for the most part, the Hay dives up the swales between them. We found the going fairly easy. About 10 km on, Paul had a close encounter that he wasn't counting on. A 6 foot (1.8 metre) Big Red (Kangaroo) leap across the track, right in front of him, the 'roo  looked around, looked through him and was gone. It was a close call and a reminder to us all, that even here, in what appears a very dry environment, there's Kangaroos about, something I have to say, I'd never seen in the Desert.

 

Ahead of us we had a set of about 12 dunes to cross. These had been of some considerable concern as all the information we could get about them suggested that we were in for a long afternoon of digging, traxing and towing to get over them, if we could at all. Several reports referred to them as monsters. Given the temps by late morning were already in the very high 20's 70's F), we had given some consideration to calling an early day at the base of the first of these monsters. Sure, we'd give it a go, but we could already feel the sand under our treads was soft and dry.

 

On our way North, we could hear some chatter over the CB of a party heading South, before long, we came across them. They were a professional tour group in their Mercedes G Wagons. Stopping for a brief chat, they let us know that there was another of their vehicles ahead of us, broken down in the track. As the issued seemed to be gearbox related, they were unable to move it, though they assured us we'd get around it OK. They admired our Mokes but did let us know that we'd get bogged on the other sides of all the dunes ahead of us. It was depressing news that made for a quite drive until we reached them. On sizing the first of these dunes up, I felt that they were yet ahead of us, but a quick check on the GPS confirmed that this was indeed them. It didn't appear too big but definitely looked soft. I thought I'd give it a taste and see how we'd go. Next thing, I was over, I felt a huge relief. I called for Jack to come over before heading off to the next. Over then next 20 minutes or so, it was mostly rather routine. We didn't get bogged as the tour group suggested, though the Eastern sides of these dunes was deeper, steeper and softer, it was in equal parts that we drove and slivered down some of these.  Towards the last of these, I heard a call over the CB from Paul that he was stuck on a dune. As Roger was not far behind him he stepped in to assist Paul while Jack and I waited a little ahead. We could hear an engine reving, then we saw the flag on the up side, before the nose of Paul's Moke appeared. It stopped just on the down hill side. From where we were, we couldn't quite see what was going on at this point, however after a short pause, Paul appeared to be driving rather recklessly on the down hill side of the dune. Jack and I also noticed Roger running after Paul, with Jack and I thinking 'what the hell ?' before Paul came to a rest near the base of the dune. This was most unusual for Paul. A few moments later, we saw Paul walking down the dune towards his Moke. At first, Jack and I thought this was a neat trick before realising that Paul's Moke had made it's own way down, without a pilot ! It was all comical to watch, it could have ended disastrously, however and thankfully, no one and no Moke was worse for it.

 

The dunes in this section for the next roughly 10 km were covered in a beautiful purple wildflower, they sure made for a pleasant distraction.

 

 

Beautiful Wildflowers covering the dunes.

 

The Temps during the day had been in the low 30's (85's F), this combined with the fact that we'd not bathed in about 9 days by now was getting rather uncomfortable and likely smelly, though, we were all in the same boat, so none of us seemed to notice. Not much for it, other than press on and look forward to a hot shower in a few days.

 

We received a call over the CB that there was a party heading South towards us, before long we caught up with them. One of the fella's travelling with his wife, introduced himself as Brett, who, as it turned out, was a retired Mini Mechanic. He worked for many year for none other than Jack and later Matt Read at ReadSpeed in Brisbane. They were travelling with another couple, Wayne and his wife. We stopped to exchange war stories of both the cars and the track before cracking on with it.  A couple of hours later, we made camp for the night.

 

Day 6 in the Desert saw us heading off towards one of the Madigan Line junctions. During 1939, Madigan lead a party from Alice Springs to Birdsville through the Desert (and returned to Alice Springs). Madigan was also part of Mawson's group to the South Pole, some years earlier. His Desert Expedition was founded by Alfred Simpson (of the Simpson washing machine fame and after who the Desert is named) and was touted as being the first major expedition across. There were daily live broadcasts on the ABC Radio during their crossing. At the conclusion of their expedition, Madigan famously said " no motorised vehicle will ever penetrate the Desert ". I find some amusement in this as later, Madigan was a lecturer at Adelaide University, where one of his students was a little know fella by the name of Reg Sprigg. In 1962, Reg, together with his family, were the first to drive a 'motorised vehicle' across the Simpson. While few know of Reg, the legacy of his work touches our lives just about every day.

 

By around morning tea, we'd reach Madigan's Camp 16, which the Hay River Track also runs through.

 

 

Camp 16 of the Madigan Line. I'm no botanist, but isn't that a Gum Tree ?

 

I had been here back in 2017 on a trip organised by Alan across the Madigan, just on the tail end of the period before it became a popular Desert track to cover. We'd 'popped out' at camp 15 on to this shared part of the track, before heading off East again here at camp 16.

 

The air temperature was sure pushing hard at this point, before midday, it was already banging on the door of 30 degrees (85 F). I also found the UV quite hard, I'd learned many years back that it was best to cover up on trips like these to not only keep cleaner, but also to stop getting sun burnt, despite covering up, on these mornings, since heading North a few days earlier, I found that my hands were starting to get burnt, fitting the screen (mesh) side curtain on though, helped no end for that. After a brief break here for a bite to eat and after making an entry in to the visitor's book, we pressed on for Madigan's camp 15, about 17 km (10 miles) further on.

 

As we were approaching this next land mark, we could again hear some chatter over the CB from another group. We felt sure they weren't behind us, they were either heading South or more likely, coming in from the West. Before long we found them, a group on Trail Bikes who'd come over the Madigan Line and had stopped, waiting for their support crew at Camp 15. They were headed to Birdsville and hoped to be there that afternoon or early the following day. As Paul and Jack were looking low on fuel, we negotiated to buy from them some of their spare fuel.

 

These guys had also come a long way, from Old Andado, about 200 km (125 miles) to the West. On reaching Birdsville if they were looking in good shape, their plans were to turn around and head back the same way, all the way back to Alice Springs in fact.

 

 

A chance meeting with some bikers at Madigan's camp 15. Is that another gum tree or two ?

 

After spending about half an hour exchanging war stories with the bikers and their support crew, we bid our new found friends farewell, at least until we all likely meet up again in Birdsville, with the day heating up, we pressed on. We were well within the tail end of the Hay River here, although the map was showing we were almost in it's bed, there was little to see of it here. The Desert had given way from the scrub we'd had the past couple of days to an area of what appeared to be a dead forest, though looks can be deceiving here. I am assured they are alive an well. While I don't claim to be a botanist, it would appear these are a type of curara or dead finish tree, seems an appropriate name !

 

 

For many km on the track north, we passed through this forest of leaf-less dead finish trees.

 

A few hours later, we made our 7th desert camp. I was starting to appreciate how Madigan likely felt, though we had donkeys over his camels, or was it in fact we were the donkeys all the way out here ? With the afternoon heat getting to us, we had again pulled up stumps earlier than planned, though our good progress certainly allowed for this break. At the time, reflecting back over where we'd been since leaving Burra a life time ago, it was hard to take it all in. We had all been snapping off photos and Rich too had been keeping a daily blog, in time I knew it would all sink in.

 

 

Our 7th camp, about 30 km North of  Madigan's camp 15, just on sunset.

 

Another cloudless morning saw us pushing on. Soon, we were starting to weave a little around the gums of the lower Hay River. A couple of hours later I received a call over the CB from Roger, that he'd broken a drive shaft, on a trip like this, it's just about expected and somewhat surprising that none of us had done one, until now. I do have to lodge a complaint here though, not for Roger breaking the drive shaft, but not being considerate enough to do so under the shade of a tree, of which by now, there were a few about.

 

 

Changing out a broken driveshaft while Rich enjoys the shade.

 

Working in the full sun, heat and flies Roger and I soon had the shaft changed, before long, we were all mobile again.

 

By now, we could feel the reach of the Hay River itself, although we couldn't quite see the bed, for the area around the track was becoming thicker and looking more and more like the Aussie bush. Another hour or so later and we caught of first sights of the dry River.

 

 

Our first glimpses of the Hay River's dry bed.

 

This region had been explored in the 1880's, no doubt in search of lands suitable for running cattle. While they may have survived in few wet years that occur, their survival outside of that would be doubtful. In the 1950's and 60's other parties of geologists had also been through in the search of oil. Given there's few test wells in this part of the Simpson, it sees that nothing seemed favourable to them. In 1970's the government sunk a test well to explore this outer edge of the artesian basin. The well, though in a different form still exists to this day, known since 2010 as Dingo Well. It sports a solar powered pump, though like most things to do with present day renewable energy, despite the panel being in the full glare of the sun, the pump didn't work and looks like it hasn't for some time.

 

 

Dingo Well and it's failed Solar Pump.

 

By late afternoon, we were crossing the Tropic of Capricorn, another land mark point in the adventure. I have to say that it sure made me feel humbled but just how far we'd come and just where we were - a long way from anywhere ! Once again, we were greeted with a no expense spared sign to let us know we'd reach this milestone. When approaching such marks, there's always feel of anticipation.

 

 

The Desert Rats at Tropic of Capricorn with the no expense spared sign to mark it.

 

The track by afternoon was just a series of turns, left, right, left, right, most nearly at full lock with no straight parts between, just turn on turn. After a few hours of doing this on low tyre pressures we found hard work, there was no let up, though, the reason for the turns was to guide the track between all the trees, mostly gums, that were here. We both praised them for the shade they offered and but also cursed them for the hard work they were making for us. Centimetre by centimetre, metre by metre, kilometre by kilometre, we were moving on-ward and up-ward, with he high temperatures, it was becoming a real grind. Around 35 km from the Tropic of Capricorn, we made camp. It was both sombre in that this would be our last in the Desert and also celebratory that all going well, the following day we will have accomplished a double crossing of the Simpson Desert, it would also mean we could have a shower !

 

Our last morning saw us heading off to Batton Hill, at the very northern end of the Hay River Track. It was a mix of rough, smooth and light corrugated sections. The going was easy, though very much an anti-climax after what we'd just been through. By mid-morning we'd come to the gate that marked Batton Hill.

 

 

Batton Hill. This marks the end of the Hay River Track.

 

Before reaching the Plenty Highway, ahead lay the Batton Hill Road (track) that shoots off around 80 km to the West. We'd been hearing for weeks of this track as being quite a horror stretch of sever corrugations, all the way and with no let up. None of us were looking forward to what lay ahead here. It didn't disappoint. As Roger and Rich had lead us in to the Desert, it felt appropriate for them to lead us out again, this put me as tail end charlie.

 

 

The heavily corrugated Batton Hill road. The only changes over its  entire 80 km / 50 mile length was the odd large rock and hole.

 

After waiting around 5 minutes to leave a dust gap, I set off, just 80 km / 50 miles and this would all be over. After trying a few different speeds to smooth out the corrugations, I found 95 to 100 kph (60 mph) worked well, they just settled in to a load hum, however I also found that I was catching those in front. Slowing to around 5 kph (3 mph) for 10 minutes in order to gain a dust gap once more, I started off again. This went on until about 1/2 way down the track I found that both my engine mounts had broken, largely from having had to slow down and then try to 'get on the plane' again. Roger and I changed these out in the blistering heat of the day and also that coming off the hit engine. While the flies were about, thankfully, they weren't in full force. Repairs done, we set off once more, settling in to the depressing routine of that dreaded track. Eventually, the track turned towards the north, this marked the last couple of km before reaching the Plenty Highway. I just had the main road in sight, when I'd lost all power. With the main road only about 200 metres (220 yards) away, I'd run out of fuel !! We put some petrol in from a jerry, then headed up to the road. 1048 km (651 miles) across the Simpson Desert in a double crossing. We were there, we'd done it !

 

 

The Desert Rats victorious on reaching the Plenty Highway and successfully 1048 km double crossing the Simpson Desert.

 

Part 6 to follow !  Yes, there’s more,,,,,,

 

 

[Spider]

Part 6

 

And as they say, it ain't over yet. We made camp at Jervois Station, as we were in early afternoon, time for a well earned siester and our first shower in 12 days, oh that felt so good ! Being a Sunday, the Station shop was closed, fuel up would be in the morning.

 

 

 

As the sign says - Hot Showers !

 

Getting away at a sleep in time of about 9, we headed East for Boulia. The road, though unsealed at this stage, was in very good condition, after putting some air in the tyres, thanks to Jack, we were about to cruise at what seemed like a light speed of 100 kph. We stopped in to Tobermory Station, which is just about on the Northern Territory - Queensland border for morning tea. To our delight, we found that they had Mobile Phone Service, our first contact with the outside world since leaving Oodnadatta. I was last at Tobermory in 2018, it wasn't bad then, though, they'd just suffered through a huge flood. I have to say, this time around, I found it to be wonderful, a real oasis, kudos to the staff and owners for making it so wonderful.

 

 

 

The oasis of Tobermory Station. Green Grass !

 

 

After spending more time enjoying Tobermory than we had though, we peeled ourselves away for we still had a long way to go before reaching our evening's destination. On reaching the border just a few km on from Tobermory, the road was sealed. The country out here is so flat, you can see the curvature of the Earth. It just goes on for ever and there's so little to interrupt the view all the way to the horizon in every direction. We reached Boulia by around 4:30 that afternoon. We'd been on the road, a fairly major route, all day and on a week day, We didn't see another traveller all day. While having a decent road through there, it's still very remote country. We spoiled ourselves with a feed at the Pub that night.

 

Morning saw us in the supermarket for a small re-stock on supplies before heading South for the first time of the trip. This really did signal that the end was coming nearer. About an about an hour, we again crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, only this time around, there was the type of marker one would expect to see for such an important line across the map.

 

 

 

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn for the second time.

 

 

On reaching the next town out here, Bedourie, it had reached us that the staff of the Visitor Centre would like to meet up with us. It was easy to find on the main strip. On pulling up out front, they came out to great us and check out the Mokes. Word from the Desert had reached them that we'd been out there, they wanted to hear our story and grab some photos for press releases. They were happy for us to park in their front garden for the photo shoot.

 

 

 

Photo shoot at the Bedourie Visitor Centre.

 

 

The day was once again, really heating up. It was before midday and it was already over 30. We headed over the road to the pub for a cool drink and some shade. All the same, Birdsville awaited, where we'd planned on having a rest for a few days. On arriving, we were disappointed to find that they had not in fact booked the cabins that we'd booked earlier in the day. I have to say, over the past 10 or so years, the once lovely frontier town of Birdsville seemed to be eroding away. We eventually settled on a large singe cabin before adjourning to the famous Birdsville Pub for that photo and a cool beer.

 

 

 

The Desert Rats outside the Birdsville Pub. These were the first clouds we'd seen in a few weeks.

 

 

With the loss of our original couple of Cabin booking, it was all going to be a bit tight, Jack was happy enough to sleep in his stretcher tent, at the invitation of the Park Operators, on the lawn just outside the cabin. What they failed to let Jack know was that at 3:00 AM, the automatic lawn sprinklers came on and Jack had a second unplanned shower for the day, only this time, cold and not welcome. The following day, fatigue had set in, we did little, though we did manage to catch up with some of the folk we'd met out in the Desert. We were all pleased to see that we'd all made it.

 

Staying on for a further day we headed out to Big Red for some play time, the clouds had cleared and we wanted to be out there before the day started to heat up. On our early arrival, we found that there was no one else out there, though they soon arrived. After lowering tyre pressures once more, we each had a go, Roger led the charge, followed by Jack, Paul and then myself. As I've always found here (and in the Desert itself) conditions from one day to the next change so much. This was the by far the easiest 'topping' I'd ever done there, with the sand being quite firm and moist. It was in fact the first time in the Moke up there that we'd been able to drive around on top, at previous other times, it was so soft, I was unable to get more than a few metres from cresting the track up. We found a group of bikers up there, grouping just before heading off to the Desert for the day.

 

 

 

The Desert rats on top of Big Red.

 

 

Leaving Birdsville the following morning, with the wind picking up, we headed off for the Betoota Pub. It was a long standing pub that closed in 1997, but re-opened again in 2017, along with it's well known Betoota Advocate. While originally a printed local paper, it seems these days it's become on-line and taken on a life of it's own, often delving in deep with a rather amusing satirical approach to issues of the day.

 

 

 

The infamous Betoota pub.

 

 

Roger was happy for he'd finally come face to face with his Yellow Double Decker Bus. I just rolled my eyes,,, I'd been hearing from him of this Yellow Bus since a trip to Birdsville in 2014, only that bus had left the station, this particular one was still about, though hidden out the back.

 

 

 

'Roger's' Yellow Bus. Sometimes, we'd like to see him leave on it,,,,

 

 

Leaving Betoota, we had another land mark destination to tick off the list - Haddon Corner. This is a less well know state border peg, it marks the corner point between South Australia and Queensland.

 

 

 

Haddon Corner with Jack giving his approval. Inset showing the plate inscription

 

 

Continuing our drive South, on the Arabury Road towards Innamincka, the wind had picked up quite a bit. We had to camp for the night and had an eye out for a sheltered location. in a lower area of the road, we found a creek bed that offered million star accommodation. By now, we were all feeling rather battle fatigued, it was a rather sombre camp that night, especially after putting up with the high winds of the afternoon.

 

Pressing on in the morning, the unsealed road had for the most part deteriorated and was rather rough. After a few hours, just to the North of Innamincka, we stopped off at the Dig Tree, where John Bourke had perished some 160 years ago in his party ill-fated attempt to cross Australia from South to North. The story is rather well known, however I have long held a view that it was doomed before it even started. All the same, it's a rather tragic end for some very brave and gusty soles.

 

Reaching Innamincka by early afternoon, we had some lunch and booked a room in the motel. After a break, Roger, Rich and myself went off to look at some of the sights. The Cooper Creek was absolutely glorious, had I been feeling more energetic, I would have gone for a swim.

 

 

 

The Cooper Creek where King from the Burke and Wills Expedition was found. Glorious !

 

 

This more or less marks the end of the trip. From Innamincka we made our way down the (new) Strzelecki Track to Lyndhurst where we stayed the next night. Highly recommend the pub there. From there to Port Augusta and finally reach Adelaide on Tuesday 22nd August, 2023. Roger, Rich and myself still had a further 1400 km back to Sydney.

 

Some statistics for the number crunchers;-

 

Simpson Desert permanent population                         0  (though there can be 27.6 bizzillion flies if you pick the right time)

Australia's population                                                    25.7 million

England's population                                                     55.9 million

England's size                                                               130 000 square km

Simpson Desert land area                                             180 000 square km

Australia's area                                                             7 688 000 square km

Deserts in the UK, including England                            0

Deserts in Australia                                                      10

Distance travelled for the Adelaide crew                       5 900 km (approx)

Distance travelled for the Sydney Crew                        8 231 km                                                            

Distance travelled for the UK Crew                               45 065 km

Distance between fills across the Desert                      1 048 km

Fuel used (Sydney Crew)                                             819 litres

 

 

 

Our Logged Route also showing our Desert camp sites.

[Designer]

An awesome trip.

Yet again amazing scenery.

Out of interest how far did you have to travel from home to your start point for the desert crossing?

[Spider]

An awesome trip.

Yet again amazing scenery.

Out of interest how far did you have to travel from home to your start point for the desert crossing?

 

Cheers - it was awesome and amazing to be there to see it first hand !

 

I'm Sydney based. It's a 900 mile (1400 km) drive from here to Burra, the starting (or meeting) point for the trip - a trip in itself ! Roger and his son Rich though had an additional 10 500 miles before that !

I'll get part 2 up in a few days.

[Pete Power]

Thanks for sharing the tale of your epic journey

[Spider]

Cheers Pete !

This will be full story from which Colin cut down for the newsletter.

[Designer]

I'll get part 2 up in a few days.

 

 

Looking forward to reading it.

Edited by Designer, 07 October 2023 - 05:57 AM.

[Spider]

Part 3 has been posted (see post #3) ^
Cheers

[Pete Power]

How did you keep the beer cold?

[Designer]

What you don't see in the photos is the ten trailer land train following them carrying all the spares with three of the trailers  chill wagons with Fosters Amber Nectar in bold letters down the side.       

Edited by Designer, 11 October 2023 - 03:20 PM.

[Spider]

Hehehehehe,,,,,,,,

Yes, anyone can drag a bathtub through the desert - or anywhere for that matter - with support.

While there was another group following us we were 100% independent of them, we carried everything, including fuel, water, food, cooking gear, spares and tools

 

Pete, we each had fridge / freezers, you can just see line here;-

 

 

 A 36 litre Brass Monkey, it's done me well, been very pleased with it. The freezer side of it on this trip was sitting between -28 and -22, even on the hottest of days - cold beer - no trouble