146 replies to this topic

[cptkirk]

Awesome news........Let us know how you get on after the wheel alignment....

[Renessy]

quick update.... the car is still in the garage.

the alignment was a ******* to do. the bratteling sound did came from the drive shfts. It seemed that they were 'under tension' and that made the sound. Hope it didn't wreck anything but so far that seems not to be the thing. Even had to shift the engine a few rings to have the wanted space on the drive shafts. A total of two workdays but it worked! The car drives straight anf overall far better now. Haha.

After that the car still didn't pass the APK check because the rear wheel sticks out of the bodykit. Allowed is 3cm and it was 3,5.
Damn......
Was thinking about getting smaller rims or a simple easy thing to expand the bodykit with.
So I went there to have a look and fixed it at the spot. Left I had 3,5 cm and right 1,5....... Solution loosen the fix between the body and the frame. Shift body over and voila! 2,5 cm at both sides.....
Yeah!

Hopefully I will get the call this afternoon so I can pick it up!

==Got butterflies in my stomach==

Edited by Renessy, 27 August 2015 - 08:43 AM.

[cptkirk]

Good Luck.

[andream88]

Pics pics pics

[Renessy]

Guys,

 

it passed!

 

I haven't got any really good pics so you'll have to with this:

 

 

 

mini show off

 

drive off

 

Enjoy!

 

Will report back later this week to discuss the problems I have encounterd so far....

 

René

Edited by Renessy, 28 March 2018 - 07:06 PM.

[Renessy]

Well afther some testruns I came to the conclusion that the mini was too low.... At the front that's not a big problem but at the back it is. there's no way to get it higher. Therefore I contacted pro-shocks for advise. Since i only needed to raise about an inch I ordered the shock raisers. Works like a charme! One problem solved!

 

Then there's the problem with the driveshafts.It still looks like the driveshafts are to tight between the diff and the hubs. I can move the diveshafts a mm or 2. When driving it seems that the left side looses it's free play..... Don'd really know how to fix this or if this is a problem.....

 

Anyway I started making a perspex sheet between the engine bay and the seats. Hope this helps getting the noise and heat down in the driverseat.

 

The biggest problem I have is the RDW check. they will ask where i got the engine from so they can check if the engin is not stolen or something.... I boughtmy engine on a online market place so I have no idea out of which car the engine came.... Damn. Probably have to figure something 'dark-ish' for that....

 

Still...... Loving the mini!

[dondo]

Well afther some testruns I came to the conclusion that the mini was too low.... At the front that's not a big problem but at the back it is. there's no way to get it higher. Therefore I contacted pro-shocks for advise. Since i only needed to raise about an inch I ordered the shock raisers. Works like a charme! One problem solved!
 
Then there's the problem with the driveshafts.It still looks like the driveshafts are to tight between the diff and the hubs. I can move the diveshafts a mm or 2. When driving it seems that the left side looses it's free play..... Don'd really know how to fix this or if this is a problem.....
 
Anyway I started making a perspex sheet between the engine bay and the seats. Hope this helps getting the noise and heat down in the driverseat.
 
The biggest problem I have is the RDW check. they will ask where i got the engine from so they can check if the engin is not stolen or something.... I boughtmy engine on a online market place so I have no idea out of which car the engine came.... Damn. Probably have to figure something 'dark-ish' for that....
 
Still...... Loving the mini!

With regards to the heat I have purchased some gold reflective film from China, have covered the inside of my boot lid and it seemed to have reduced the outside temperature, that said have order a
Digital Infrared Temperature Temp Gun Thermometer Non-Contact IR Laser Point thing to measure the temperature drop so will let you know the real difference.
The film was cheap so was doubtful it would work, PS it did not stand up to being placed directly on the exhaust as shown on the site !!!!

[Renessy]

So, I finally found some time to close this topic properly.
I still have it!
Meanwhile a lot further. The APK was not sufficient for the legislator. For various reasons the mini still had to go to IKS in Lelystad. The RDW. They tested the mini from top to bottem. This means that he went to the test center of the RDW three times for driving tests. In the meantime some adjustments had to be made and especially the DBs were a problem. In the end 3 silencers and a DB killer made it so that I had 75 DB 's during the dynamic test. Really so terrible with a race mini .... But it had to ......

Eventually we managed everything with a lot of money, time and effort. Everything is on license plate !!! time to party!

We have been driving for a while now (in good weather. hahaha). Then you get the first problems.  Fortunately nothing shocking. Only the master cylinder of the clutch need to be replaced. Here I have to move some more oil so that the slave gets a slightly larger output. Come hopefully in 2 weeks.

 

Anyway…. Videos:
 

Just 2 minutes with those boys from me.
 

Acceleration

 

with the youngest

 

Nothing really much but .... Subscribe but because there are more of them to come ...

So, so far the 'construction' report of the purple mini that became a race monster.


Thank you all for the years of support during building.

regards

René

Edited by Renessy, 28 March 2018 - 07:04 PM.

[Renessy]

Since it is very quiet here I thought I would post a short video..... Build in launch control last week.

 

 

And tested the VTEC system. It works like so but still not when driving. My engine warning light is on but no fault codes on the ECU. Still figuring this out.

 

 

 

And I'm am still struggling with my clutch. Maybe you guys can help.....

I have a B16A1 engine with a cable operated clutch. I rebuild it to hydro but the travel of my slave is to short.

I had a 0.875 bore and bought a 3/4 bore main cylinder. (according to willwood this would be the best combo) But the travel of the slave with the 3/4 was even shorter!

I'm in to buy a 1.125 bore but I doubt if it will be the right one. I think it will.

Anyone who can enlighten me in the world of the clutch??

 

Cheers!

 

René

Edited by Renessy, 28 March 2018 - 07:08 PM.

[Renessy]

Well I finally got the cluch sorted. The bigger bore did the job and I got a Loaner gearbox and made myself a better bracket which pulls the slave cilinder straight in line with the lever on the gearbox. Pretty pleased with that. The travel is a bit harder as aspected but that saves me money on the gym.... Haha.

 

Then the next problem occured. The enginge overheated with the warm weather. Pfffffff\

I did the following on that: I plugged the heater lines from the engine. I haven't got a heater  and so that warm water was just circulating the engine and not pushing it to the radiator. That's one. Second is a new thermostat. This one is problably 15 years old old or so.... Time to be replaced. 

The car still gets 90 degrees and with pushing the car it gets 95. A dubble core radiator is the next step as with the current setup the fan stays on.

 

Did some wheel porn too. 

 

 

Feel free to check out my facebook page..... https://www.facebook...02898033107838/

 

So far for now. Untill the next update..... 

Edited by Renessy, 11 September 2018 - 07:17 AM.

[RichMPiBlue]

 

 

 

 

 

Looks awesome mate!

Edited by RichMPiBlue, 15 June 2018 - 03:01 PM.

[Renessy]

To spice things up a bit….. A mate of mine has a 360 camera……. Cool thingie!

 

https://www.facebook...evQ&__tn__=kC-R

 

https://youtu.be/M87UD7I9SKo