
Securing Cv Boots
#1
Posted 28 July 2023 - 07:06 PM
What’s the most common method people are using? I’ve had plastic cable ties and metal cable ties with the little ball bearing in. Both either pull too tight and slip the boot off or not tight enough to pull the boot off but then slip off after a few miles anyway!
#2
Posted 28 July 2023 - 07:14 PM

#3
Posted 28 July 2023 - 08:12 PM
When the outer cv joint boots keep coming off like that it is best to replace them, they have possibly lost a bit of their flexibility and are a bit streched.
#4
Posted 28 July 2023 - 08:46 PM
#5
Posted 29 July 2023 - 07:25 AM
I had a bit of trouble with one of mine. I found cable ties don't work because the square bit with the "zip" in it is too lumpy. Then I got some of these from Amazon below. Also too lumpy until I bashed the little bend flat before putting them on. Probably I'm an idiot but it worked for me.
I don't think the tie needs to be all that tight but to get them on properly you need to pull them right over the joint which means undoing the driveshaft nut and getting it out of the hub. You can get away with only undoing the top balljoint (the taper on the lower one is stuck fast on my car on that side-- one day will have to take the lower arm off and blowtorch it), but it's tricky. I managed it after yanking on the boot itself with long-nosed pliers to pull it over. Once it's fully on I think it should stay there. At least mine was the last time I checked.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09CPWYVK8
#6
Posted 29 July 2023 - 01:41 PM
Don't use cable ties, use the proper thing.
#7
Posted 30 July 2023 - 04:24 AM
#8
Posted 30 July 2023 - 11:29 AM
The Cable Ties some come with are nothing but heartache.
In lue of most other ties especially those that need tooling, if you don't have said tools, Tie Wire is excellent. Two wraps around, pull and twist.
#9
Posted 30 July 2023 - 11:43 AM
I manage to wire 'em with just combo pliers. Two wraps, as Spider says, then cross the end with half a turn so you can grip with the edge of the jaws, pliers in the middle. Aim for equal tension so they wind around each other and tighten against the CV. Trim to length and lay against the CV with the direction of rotation. Galvanised fencing wire works.
#10
Posted 30 July 2023 - 08:36 PM
The Cable Ties some come with are nothing but heartache.
In lue of most other ties especially those that need tooling, if you don't have said tools, Tie Wire is excellent. Two wraps around, pull and twist.
I remember my Dad showing me this as he couldn't afford the proper ties - he used copper wire stripped from odd bits of twin and earth domestic cable.
Its a reasonable thickness but you had to be careful not to twist it too tight otherwise it would break
#11
Posted 01 August 2023 - 07:16 PM
I always use three turns of locking wire. Once it pulls the gaiter into the groove and the wire is pulled tight, just twist the ends together, cut the wire and lay the twisted end along the wire. That way the end does not hit the hub. I've done that on all my cars over the years with no problems. Make sure it is proper locking wire, not cheap muck.
#12
Posted 02 August 2023 - 07:09 AM
I remember my Dad showing me this as he couldn't afford the proper ties - he used copper wire stripped from odd bits of twin and earth domestic cable.
Its a reasonable thickness but you had to be careful not to twist it too tight otherwise it would break
Ha ! Funny you say your dad used copper wire, I actually use 80 Amp Fuse Wire, which when snipped off is tinned copper wire.
It will break if you try to just twist it tight, hence why I suggest twisting about 1/2 a turn, then pull it tight, finishing by twisting while having that pull pressure on - if that makes sense. I'll do a youtube clip one day
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