7 replies to this topic

[Colakurt]

I did a complete engine and gearbox rebuild over the winter on my A+ engine with remote gearbox, KAD quickshifter and pre-verto clutch.

 

Both before and after the rebuild I am having issues with the reverse gear crunching when I try to select it, and often it feels like the gear shifter is in the correct place but the gear mechanism still isn't fully engaged. In some cases it will even jump out of the gear again. during my rebuild I did an inspection of the reverse gear itself but did not replace it as it seems to be in good condition.

 

I think I am dealing with two issues at once here. How do I stop the gear from crunching when the clutch is fully pressed and adjusted correctly, with all new hydraulic and mechanical parts?

And is there a way to adjust the gear selector somehow to make the gear "more engaged"? The gear shifter seems to go in to the location where it should be, but it is as if the movement is not enough to engage the gear, and often the gearbox will just stay in idle. And yes I do know that I have to pull the ring under the gearknob up to select reverse.

 

When I had the gearbox open I could easily engage and disengage the reverse gear manually using the shifter axel, so I would think the mechanics in the gearbox works.

[timmy850]

There's no synchro on reverse, so it does have the potential to crunch. Sometimes it can help to put it in first gear, then try reverse after that 

[Designer]

Hi,

 

Is reverse the only gear that it jumps out of or does it happen in second and possibly fourth.

Look at the post popping out of second gear your answer to that problem could be there.

Regarding the crunching of gears when selecting reverse it could be caused by the same wrong spec gaiter but not sure.

[Colakurt]

I know there is no synchro on reverse, but it does crunch pretty bad, and that coupled with the difficulty of selecting the gear makes me think something isn't right.

 

It did pop out of first before the rework, but it also turne out that the synchro between 1st and 2nd along with 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear sync interface was completely destroyed. After they where replaced I have had no issues with any forward going gears. But I also dont feel a "clonk" when going into reverse, you know, the feeling when the gear is firmly selected, but I also cant pull the gear leaver any further back.

[Spider]

When you overhauled the gearbox, did you replace the bronze bushes in the diff cap ?

Also, what condition were the knuckle joints that sit on top of the diff cap in ?  Did they clamp up nice and tight on the splines ?

 

Did you check the condition of the bush in Reverse Gear ?

 

These can be causes for it jumping out of Reverse / not fully engaging. There's a lot of separate parts in the Remote Shifter arrangement, which when they all wear a little, it all adds up to a lot of free play in the set up. Right from the Gear Stick through to the Toggle in the Gearbox, every one of the parts needs to be checked and corrected for any wear or slackness.

 

 

Did you check the Primary Gear spun free on the Crank and also that once the flywheel was fitted, it wasn't pinched by the flywheel ?

 

If the idle is set too high, it can also sometimes be a cause for this occurring.

[coopertaz]

sounds like clutch drag. do you also find first difficult or have a low bite point. check primary gear end float, while clutch out check for any contamination, if ok then go on to hydraulic system

[Colakurt]

The entire hydraulic system is brand new, everything in the clutch is new, except for the flywheel and pressure plate. I feel like the clutch is starting to engage soon after i press the pedal, so the working point is rather high, but sometimes I dont have to lift the foot much before the car starts moving.

I checked the reverse gear and bushings, they all seem fine and when having the gearbox out I could freely engage and disengage reverse with the gear selector axel. And yes the joints for the diff and splines also seem fine, so I am pretty sure the gearbox is in working order, which is why my concern is focused more on the gear selector.

[Spider]

Noted all the hydraulics and other new parts you've fitted, however, can I suggest all the same, assume nothing here.

I'd suggest here measuring how much separation you are getting on the clutch / backing plate to see where you need to next look.

If you undo the timing inspection cover, turn the engine over slowly until you see a Diaphragm Bolt Head in that window. You can se up a DTI on that bolt head, but I find a small ruler is enough here. Have someone put their foot on the clutch pedal and measure how far that Bolt Head moves. Ideally, and with all new parts, everything adjusted up, you'll get 1.5 mm here, but you really need 1 mm as a minimum.

If you are not seeing that movement there, then the issues lay somewhere between the pedal and the thrust bearing and everything in between. If you are seeing that amount of movement, then I'd be inclined to say that for what ever reason, the Primary gear is not spinning free as it should on the crank.