11 replies to this topic

[CallumAustin11]

Hi there,

 

Not sure what is correct for the radius arms. My LHS radius arm is hitting the subframe as well as the bottom shock mount. The LHS radius arm is a reconditioned one from minispares where as the RHS one is the one that came with the car when I bought it.

 

The big washer on the radius arms is definitely on the inside and the small washer on the outside and the subframe is new and aligned as well. Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

[DeadSquare]

I have seen radius arms closer than the bottom photo, but never touching, as in the top one.

 

You can fairly easily check that either side of the subframe, measure the same from "where the arm touches" to the inner pivot pin mount, to rule out a duff subframe.

 

If it is duff, I'd just cut the offending metal off the subframe, where it touches.

 

If it is the radius arm, send it back.

[Homersimpson]

I had an arm years ago where the needle bearing had broken up and the rollers had all moved to one side and the alarm was out of line.

 

It had been like this for so long it had worn into the arm and I had to replace it.

[humph]

Take some measurements on the frame and check some angles, compare both sides. I had one of the first Minispares manufactured rear subframes during lockdown and had the same problem. Comparing both sides it was clear the end plate the arm pin locates through was welded a tiny bit out of line, which at the other end of the arm made a big difference. Minispares were great as usual and had another with me the next day.

Edited by humph, 04 June 2023 - 09:36 AM.

[CallumAustin11]

When you say end plate, do you mean the radius arm bracket? Or where the pin locates in the subframe on the inside? I’ve actually tried to contact minispares about this issue and no response. I’ll get out to the mini now and check some measurements, then report back

[DeadSquare]

When you say end plate, do you mean the radius arm bracket? Or where the pin locates in the subframe on the inside? I’ve actually tried to contact minispares about this issue and no response. I’ll get out to the mini now and check some measurements, then report back

 

 

"Where the pin locates in the subframe on the inside", --- to ---  'the bottom of the subframe that the radius arm is touching'.   ---   comparing both driver's and passenger's side.

[humph]

When you say end plate, do you mean the radius arm bracket? Or where the pin locates in the subframe on the inside? I’ve actually tried to contact minispares about this issue and no response. I’ll get out to the mini now and check some measurements, then report back

Sorry I should have been clearer. I have no pictures of the subframe in question but the plate that was an issue is the vertical one with the 3 holes in that the bracket bolts to, see attached photo of a scrap frame. On the frame that gave my issues, from memory, there was a bulge/skew on this that caused that end of the radius arm to sit a few mm proud of where it should have been. Now the pin section of the arm was off square the discrepancy along the full length of the arm was some 13-15mm from memory, causing it to hit the frame.

 

Deadsquare’s measurement is also important for the same reason. Either end of the pin being out causes a larger discrepancy at the stub axle end.

 

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Edited by humph, 04 June 2023 - 05:12 PM.

[Spider]

Check everything and assume nothing, but it does sound like a bent arm to me and given that it's the kerb side showing this, that is the more common one to get bent.

 

I have found them difficult to check off car unless you have a jig. Even on car, without suitable measuring gear, they are hard to check.

 

 

Take some measurements on the frame and check some angles, compare both sides. I had one of the first Minispares manufactured rear subframes during lockdown and had the same problem. Comparing both sides it was clear the end plate the arm pin locates through was welded a tiny bit out of line, which at the other end of the arm made a big difference. Minispares were great as usual and had another with me the next day.

 

This is a good point and one worth checking. All 4 holes for the Trailing Arm Pins should be in align when the subframe is true. I test for this in a similar way to how the factory did - I use a true rod, it's 1600 mm ling and 12 mm dia. (The factory used a 1/2" rod) It should be able to easily be easily fed through all holes at the same time without any need to bend it.

In lieu of using a rod, you can bolt on the outer arm brackets and look through from one side to the other, you'll see if there's any misaglignment here, however just be aware, depending on what brake valve you have, that maybe in the way here,

[StefanMini]

Is the subframe original? If there is a new piece welded in place it can be fitted wrong.

[CallumAustin11]

So I guess this is a lesson for next time.

Measured some points on the radius arm comparing it with the other side, and also measuring thickness/length/width of the steel plates that make up the subframe. Found the measurements from the radius arms match up and all okay. Then after measuring the steel plates, found the bottom plate (the one the radius arm is fouling with) is wider on the conflicting side by about 0.5inch.

I guess don’t buy non genuine subframes

[DeadSquare]

Glad that you have got to the bottom of the problem.

 

I hope that you have access to an angle-grinder.

[CallumAustin11]

I do indeed. For piece of mind, is this a common or known issue with non genuine subframes